KP100
Registered user
I waited and waited for the 60mm grommets. I swear to god. I am never ordering anything from that crap hole country again. Always an issue. everytime.
LED bulbs
- Thread starter Bendy toy
- Start date
I have copied his installation using the Horizon LEDS's with out the extra ballast boxes - £112 a pair
http://www.horizonleds.co.uk/exteri...lights-headlamps/h7-cree-led-headlight-kit-g4
Don't think i will bother to heat sleeve the connectors - just pack some contact grease into them
I found it easier to get the grommet to fit snug having the wiring on the outside.
I didn't have a 16mm punch for the grommet to make the hole but a piece of 15mm copper pipe freshly pipe sliced then given a good smack did the trick
In engineering technical terms - they are bright as fuck compared to the original H7 Halogens !
What is the purpose / use of the ballast boxes?
are there any benefits of using them?
Mart
nearly all the LED's available come with ballast/driver boxes - I believe that they regulate the input voltage to the LED, stop flicker on Canbus systems, prevent the LampF error on the dash etc etc
for whatever, reason, these LED's don't have the separate driver box but work great on the GS
for whatever, reason, these LED's don't have the separate driver box but work great on the GS
mine took 11 days to arrive
Bendy toy
Registered user
My LED bulbs came from China in less than two weeks. They fitted the reflector no problems and cost under £50 delivered.
I recently bought what looked like Titax shorty levers for £15 the pair (worth a punt at that price). They took a similar time to arrive and are an exact fit for the standard length Titax levers except they don't carry the logo. Manufacturing quality is every bit as good.
I recently bought what looked like Titax shorty levers for £15 the pair (worth a punt at that price). They took a similar time to arrive and are an exact fit for the standard length Titax levers except they don't carry the logo. Manufacturing quality is every bit as good.
My Levers turned up yesterday
after a fitting learning curve
they look good and the ergonomics are good too. mine were £26LED's and spots next
Mart
@ Bendy toy and Santa-2512
Can you post up some links for the stuff you ordered please?
Oneplus 2 = my phone
Can you post up some links for the stuff you ordered please?
Oneplus 2 = my phone
Levers
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361763430040?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Only thing I've noticed, they have quite a dogleg,
so its possible to get the levers back to the bars in certain positions,
You just need to find a happy medium, of operation and span .
They don't come with instructions, so you need to swap the brass pivot bush, & springs
(i missed the spring, so they were quite sloppy at first )
This thread should help
https://littlefoot.smugmug.com/Other/Lever-install/
Mart
Bendy toy
Registered user
I bought these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321478412305?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
However they sent levers for the LC. Fortunately I already had Titax levers on the bike to which the new shorty arms fitted perfectly. Before buying confirm they are sending the correct parts.
I have these bulbs
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272450840088?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
In my case they shone too high even though the headlamp was at its lowest limit. Grinding the heat sink parallel gave enough room to lower the headlight. Its still a bit high but Ive not taken the time to take it all apart to find out why. Both main and dip are high so I think its an issue with my headlight not the bulbs.
Make sure you get that three contact connector used by @Jonnybravo. I went a different way but my option was by no means as elegant. One day I'll strip my wiring loom back and redo the headlamp connector
KP100
Registered user
I finished my attempt today. I gave up waiting for my Chinese grommets and did a mix up of everyone's ideas. Thanks
I added a spacer to the heat sink to give me clearance to adjust the reflector. Its worked out fine.
Road pics are of dip with fogs and full beam with fogs.
Much better, but the full beam is still lacking IMO
Click on pics for full size.
pic host
windows 7 print screen
I added a spacer to the heat sink to give me clearance to adjust the reflector. Its worked out fine.
Road pics are of dip with fogs and full beam with fogs.
Much better, but the full beam is still lacking IMO
Click on pics for full size.
pic host
windows 7 print screen
Bendy toy
Registered user
Full beam has more than enough power but the beams don't adjust separately.
The design has too little angular separation between beams.
I swapped the OEM aux headlights for long range LEDs wired to work with main beam only.
The design has too little angular separation between beams.
I swapped the OEM aux headlights for long range LEDs wired to work with main beam only.
KP100
Registered user
Is it easy to wire into the main beam switching circuit? Did it create any problems?
I've just fitted these.
1 Pair Philips LED Chips 4800LM H7 Headlamp Headlight Kit Beam Bulb 6000K LD904
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272450840088
They are a very bright white so NOT the blue tint I'd expected from 6000K. Light output is even higher that the HIDs I used to have. However I've done the job because one burner had failed, I don't know if their output was falling off.
My headlight tilt mechanism has at some time been repaired and came loose. Needing to use the bike I gaffa taped over the top 2/3 of the dip lens. It still put loads more light on the road than the original halogen bulb.
The bulb has an adjustable ferrule that can be turned or moved in/out. The LED emitters are at the same level as the halogen filament so I've kept mine as they came from the box.
The bulb back ends have a screw-on heat sink that's too tall for the OEM lamp covers and the H7 bulb connectors need to be brought outside the headlamp case.
It would probably be better to chop off the OEM headlight connector and solder the H7 connectors to wire extensions but this was my choice.
The LED driver blocks are cable tied to the beak frame.
The the LED heat sinks are too tall to accept the OEM bulb covers. Either risk dirt getting inside the light or find a fix. I cut the backs off to make screw on rings then cut 3" discs of thin rubber these fit under the heat sinks and are trapped under the cover ring. Being thin and flexible they don't interfere with the reflector tilt adjustment.
Red rubber grease on the outside allows the cover ring to turn without tearing rubber.
Rubber glove washer/boot, bulb, heatsink and cut off/trimmed cover.
Bulb and washer fitted. The H7 flange is thicker than a halogen bulb so pointed nose pliers make it easier to fit the holding clip.
Job done. Refit the lamp and connect the LED drivers.
Just ordered a set this morning, & grommets too.
Lets see what they are like
Mart
I've just fitted these.
1 Pair Philips LED Chips 4800LM H7 Headlamp Headlight Kit Beam Bulb 6000K LD904
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272450840088
They are a very bright white so NOT the blue tint I'd expected from 6000K. Light output is even higher that the HIDs I used to have. However I've done the job because one burner had failed, I don't know if their output was falling off.
My headlight tilt mechanism has at some time been repaired and came loose. Needing to use the bike I gaffa taped over the top 2/3 of the dip lens. It still put loads more light on the road than the original halogen bulb.
The bulb has an adjustable ferrule that can be turned or moved in/out. The LED emitters are at the same level as the halogen filament so I've kept mine as they came from the box.
The bulb back ends have a screw-on heat sink that's too tall for the OEM lamp covers and the H7 bulb connectors need to be brought outside the headlamp case.
It would probably be better to chop off the OEM headlight connector and solder the H7 connectors to wire extensions but this was my choice.
The LED driver blocks are cable tied to the beak frame.
The the LED heat sinks are too tall to accept the OEM bulb covers. Either risk dirt getting inside the light or find a fix. I cut the backs off to make screw on rings then cut 3" discs of thin rubber these fit under the heat sinks and are trapped under the cover ring. Being thin and flexible they don't interfere with the reflector tilt adjustment.
Red rubber grease on the outside allows the cover ring to turn without tearing rubber.
Rubber glove washer/boot, bulb, heatsink and cut off/trimmed cover.
Bulb and washer fitted. The H7 flange is thicker than a halogen bulb so pointed nose pliers make it easier to fit the holding clip.
Job done. Refit the lamp and connect the LED drivers.
Mine set turned up today .
Just waiting on the grommets
Any updates from people on here as to longevity?
Mines a daily driver / work bike so in theory 5000 hrs should last a long time ...
however previous exposure to Chinese Led's has been a a few weeks to a few months. and thats not constant, just odd use
Mart
At least you have an adjustor...
Just been to look at mine...
there is the adjustor knob thing but feck all else ...
Another part to source from somewhere
Mart
Bendy toy
Registered user
Mine had a hole bodged through the back where there is a metallic sticker. I think so the adjuster ball could be reconnected to its socket.
Is it easy to tell if the ball joint has become detached?
I only ask as I've turned the central adjuster as far as it will go and it doesn't seem to have moved the reflector much.
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
I only ask as I've turned the central adjuster as far as it will go and it doesn't seem to have moved the reflector much.
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Houston - we have a problem ......
So having fitted these LEDS from Horizon last week or so - set em up, tested em, ran the bike out for a day........all was happy in my little world........
Until having left the bike stand for a week, I go to start it tonight to fill up before heading off to the north of Scotland in the morning for an ABR camping weekend......
The battery is as flat as a witches tit ( and its a newish one at that!)
nothing else has been touched - so it must be connected
Let the investigations begin !!!!
So having fitted these LEDS from Horizon last week or so - set em up, tested em, ran the bike out for a day........all was happy in my little world........
Until having left the bike stand for a week, I go to start it tonight to fill up before heading off to the north of Scotland in the morning for an ABR camping weekend......
The battery is as flat as a witches tit ( and its a newish one at that!)
nothing else has been touched - so it must be connected
Let the investigations begin !!!!
There on, and off
Yes there certainly bright
Ok problems i found...
The adjustable collar - one grub screw out to far so fouling .. Easy fix, remove grub screw
Other lamp one grub screw locked solid wont move ... easy fix remove other grubs crew
Lamp fit, dip beam ok and attaching spring clip fine, i could get the heat sink on, but not
a lot of cable to move / mount the box of tricks ...
Moving the box of tricks makes the light go out... Loose wire / bad joint somewhere! I
need to find.
@ Sgt Cupid -
How did you get on with turning the heat sinks and refitting the standard caps?
I like the look of that method.
Failing that its the grommets and poke wires through
The weak point i can see is the plug from the original bulb to the new box of tricks.
Is it best to try and get them into the housing behind the reflectors. or tape and mount
outside.
Re the adjuster thing. the rod / screw part is missing.
however as this is the two up adjuster thing, i don't see me needing to use it
Last one is ... what did you do about the parking light?? it looks naff compared to
everything else
Also
Looking at the insluctions that were in the box,
They say to fit the bulb and feed the driver (box)? into the headlamp assy and refit the cover...
Although looking at the pics, id say they have the fan assisted units ..hmm
I will get the obligatory before after pics when i get time
Yes there certainly bright
Ok problems i found...
The adjustable collar - one grub screw out to far so fouling .. Easy fix, remove grub screw
Other lamp one grub screw locked solid wont move ... easy fix remove other grubs crew
Lamp fit, dip beam ok and attaching spring clip fine, i could get the heat sink on, but not
a lot of cable to move / mount the box of tricks ...
Moving the box of tricks makes the light go out... Loose wire / bad joint somewhere! I
need to find.
@ Sgt Cupid -
How did you get on with turning the heat sinks and refitting the standard caps?
I like the look of that method.
Failing that its the grommets and poke wires through
The weak point i can see is the plug from the original bulb to the new box of tricks.
Is it best to try and get them into the housing behind the reflectors. or tape and mount
outside.
Re the adjuster thing. the rod / screw part is missing.
however as this is the two up adjuster thing, i don't see me needing to use it
Last one is ... what did you do about the parking light?? it looks naff compared to
everything else
Also
Looking at the insluctions that were in the box,
They say to fit the bulb and feed the driver (box)? into the headlamp assy and refit the cover...
Although looking at the pics, id say they have the fan assisted units ..hmm
I will get the obligatory before after pics when i get time
The reversed heatsinks fitted fine inside the modified BMW caps, but I ended up going for plain 60mm grommets sandwiched between bulb and heatsink due to the amount of heat generated.
Haven't had water ingress issues even after this little bit of off roading last week...
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Haven't had water ingress issues even after this little bit of off roading last week...
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
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