LED spot light question

[Bryn]

On my 2009 I've just acquired, it is fitted with the BMW LED spots, with the switch on the left handlebar , with a green indicator light .

Only just noticed that whether the switch is on or off , the LED's stay on , and the green indicator light is on

Anyone experienced this or has worked out how to get them on or off

 

[Packer]

Is yours the pre-production WC Bryn?

 

[Bryn]

Is yours the pre-production WC Bryn?

Negative, it's the last of the single cams on a 10 plate ( registered March 2010)

 

[autogs]

what packer is alluding to i suspect is why have you posted your hexhead question in the toilet section

 

[Bryn]

what packer is alluding to i suspect is why have you posted your hexhead question in the toilet section

Ah.. see what you mean..slip of the posting finger ... I'd imagine the BMW LED spotlights would be pretty much the same whether they are on a WC , a hex head , a TE, a TC, a triple black or whatever... so bloody many variants

Unless of course the LED spots on a WC has a water jacket

 

[Gossy]

Ah.. see what you mean..slip of the posting finger ... I'd imagine the BMW LED spotlights would be pretty much the same whether they are on a WC , a hex head , a TE, a TC, a triple black or whatever... so bloody many variants

Unless of course the LED spots on a WC has a water jacket

I had the same problem last year 2011 GSA , dealer changed complete switch during service - said they'd changed several.

 

[Bryn]

I had the same problem last year 2011 GSA , dealer changed complete switch during service - said they'd changed several.

Thanks for that ... was yours still under warranty?

Edit:



Got a pile of receipts from the previous owner ... one of them dated 01/06/13

Douglas Park Motorrad

'Fit foglamps'

Then mention of :

Headlight x2 @ 75.84 each
Plug 7.59
Mounting 98.34
L/H holder 37.92
R/H holder 37.92

= 325.86 plus VAT and that's not including the fitting

They sound like the LED foglight kit... so should be under warranty

 

[Gossy]

Yes just in the 2 year, they just said it had failed so I assumed a faulty contact.

Good luck prising it apart!

 

[Bryn]

Yes just in the 2 year, they just said it had failed so I assumed a faulty contact.

Good luck prising it apart!

see my edited post above

 

[Roymondo]

The problem with (a lot of) these switches is not the electrical contacts inside, but the "pip" on the back of the rocker that is supposed to press on the microswitch itself. It can be rectified by making up a suitable packing piece from a bit of plastic.

 

[Bryn]

The problem with (a lot of) these switches is not the electrical contacts inside, but the "pip" on the back of the rocker that is supposed to press on the microswitch itself. It can be rectified by making up a suitable packing piece from a bit of plastic.

Thanks for that... I think I need to explore getting the switch changed by BMW before I try and cock it up myself

 

[Gossy]

see my edited post above

For that price Bryn I'd want them on all the time - good luck.

 

[Bryn]

For that price Bryn I'd want them on all the time - good luck.

Good point

 

[Nick V]

The problem with (a lot of) these switches is not the electrical contacts inside, but the "pip" on the back of the rocker that is supposed to press on the microswitch itself. It can be rectified by making up a suitable packing piece from a bit of plastic.

+1.

Another thing is to lightly lubricate the switch rocker detent and top/bottom pivots with a SMALL amount of copper grease. Makes the switch action less 'sticky'.

 

[Roymondo]

Any particular reason for using copper grease, Nick? The components concerned are all plastic, I think?

 

[Nick V]

Any particular reason for using copper grease, Nick? The components concerned are all plastic, I think?

Just a conservative approach on my part. You can certainly use red rubber grease. You might also be able to use ordinary wheel-bearing grease, but I'm not 100% sure of the chemistry that might result.
Some thermoplastic formulations react badly to petroleum-based lubes. There's also a rubber sealing grommet in there that wouldn't like petroleum-based grease.

 

[Roymondo]

Um - I think you'll find that the "grease" part of most commercially available copper grease products is ordinary, petroleum based grease (with micro-fine particles of copper added). Certainly if you get any on the rubber parts of your brakes it fcuks them up PDQ...

 

[Nick V]

Um - I think you'll find that the "grease" part of most commercially available copper grease products is ordinary, petroleum based grease (with micro-fine particles of copper added). Certainly if you get any on the rubber parts of your brakes it fcuks them up PDQ...

I agree... copper grease formulations can be different too.
I still have a quantity of Spanjaard copper grease that dates from 1998 or so - I remember it being advertised as 'petroleum-free' at the time. Certainly, I've never known it to eat rubber parts. If anyone is unsure about the stuff they're using, I'd advise them to use red rubber grease.

 

[Bryn]

Got a pot of red rubber grease... it's only the size of an old 35mm film container, but it seems to last forever

 

[Roymondo]

Indeed - A little goes a long way, as they say