Les Wassell HID & Autoswitch - have you this combination fitted?

Attleborough

Attleborough

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I've a pair of Mr Wassells HID'd FF50's :cool: and about to wire up with an AS6B Autoswitch from Mr Norman.

Having got the Autoswitch out of the wrapper and about to fit it I notice at the top of the enclosed install notes it says "Will not work with some HID Ballasts" :blast That's helpful...

Pity Autoswitch or Mr Norman don't mention it on either of their sites...

So my question, before I wire it all up is has any one got this set up togther and working OK?

I'm trying to avoid taking the installation all apart again to bench test before I make joints to the bike wiring.

Cheers
 
Because installing another switch on the bars doesn't fall anywhere close to the natural position of my hands.

I'd have to move a hand to reach an auxiliary switch hence wanting to use an Autoswitch to triggar the lights using the indicator cancel.

Unless you know of a waterproof aftermarket switch and bracket that sit convenient to the hands?
 
Attleborough said:
Because installing another switch on the bars doesn't fall anywhere close to the natural position of my hands.

I'd have to move a hand to reach an auxiliary switch hence wanting to use an Autoswitch to triggar the lights using the indicator cancel.

Unless you know of a waterproof aftermarket switch and bracket that sit convenient to the hands?
Click to expand...

Personally I use a Yamaha pattern waterproof switch I sourced from the US as a fog light switch and a PIAA switch for the 510 driving lights.

Switch.jpg


The PIAA one is simply stuck to the inside of the hand guards and as it is just a push switch is easy to activate with one finger.

To be honest the spots are triggered through the high beam so most times they are left on but I like the option of being able to run without them.
 
Yes I've seen those switches - often thought they switched the wrong way - probably 'cos most light switches go down to switch on.

I agree it is desireable to have an override switch but do you not find you need to move your hand along the bar to switch the lights on?
 
Attleborough said:
Yes I've seen those switches - often thought they switched the wrong way - probably 'cos most light switches go down to switch on.

I agree it is desireable to have an override switch but do you not find you need to move your hand along the bar to switch the lights on?
Click to expand...

Not much to be honest, and far less than when working with the Zumo which requires the hand off the bar altogether.

I can understand the convienience of the Autoswitch but compared to a conventional switch it's a complicated wiring solution.

Not really anwsering your original question I know. :blast
 
Attleborough said:
Yes I've seen those switches - often thought they switched the wrong way - probably 'cos most light switches go down to switch on.

I agree it is desireable to have an override switch but do you not find you need to move your hand along the bar to switch the lights on?
Click to expand...




If your lights are also triggered through the Hi/Lo beam switch, you'll only need to operate the override switches when starting out on you trip.


I wired two sets of lights to SWMBO's 650. Wired them to the Hi/Lo and put the overrides on the switch pod in the middle of the bars. She's never had any prob's switching between hi/lo or even using the overrides whilst mobile even with handlebar muffs fitted :nenau

Forgive me; but why a 'waterproof' switch? when none of the other switches on you bike are waterproof.


Val.


PS: Sorry I haven't really answered you question either. Why not PM Les Wassell of HiD 50 fame. He'll have the exact answer your looking for. He's a great bloke and will be more than willing to help where he can.

Good luck :thumb2
 
I stock these if you go the switch way,
 

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Autoswitch and HID

It is probably due to the back EMF from the HIDs that might damage the autoswitch sensitive circuitry or EMI interference causing false switching...

Connect via a double pole relay it should not be a problem. I will be doing this mod soon to replace my standard fogs.
 
I tried this with the autoswitch and Les' HID's, managed to get the relay to activate once in about 100 attempts. I could hear the relay switching and see the LED indicator change colour, but they would immediately turn off again. thought it might be a problem with the relay, but a 2nd one did the same.

Hi Techno, what is a double pole relay, where can I get one and how is it different to a 'normal' relay.

cheers, Simon.
 
talonfs said:
I tried this with the autoswitch and Les' HID's, managed to get the relay to activate once in about 100 attempts. I could hear the relay switching and see the LED indicator change colour, but they would immediately turn off again. thought it might be a problem with the relay, but a 2nd one did the same.

Hi Techno, what is a double pole relay, where can I get one and how is it different to a 'normal' relay.

cheers, Simon.
Click to expand...

Could you be overloading the relay maybe? Whats the rating on it?
 
Relays

A double pole will have two isolated terminals where as the single pole has only one.

But I think your problem will be the back EMF /EMI not an isolated output as the relay is bouncing - the HID ballast seems to be confusing the autoswitch.

You will probably need a quenching diode in parallel across the input. A 1N4001 should do the trick. I would have thought the autoswitch had one built in as it is supposed to drive relays...

See image. If you need a diode to try I have some so I could send you one or two to try.

You can get a relay from Maplin if you don't have one; a N02AW will be OK. (http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=37526)

Doubt you will be overloading the relay in the output side.
 

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Could the problem be that the HID ballast pulls a high current at startup, and that in combination with an undersized supply cable from the battery to the autoswitch and HID means the voltage at the autoswitch drops enough for the relay to de-energise?

Of course this can be tested by using a separate 12V feed to the relay.
 
current

Not really, the relay is activated by a very small current. The autoswitch cannot source a high current to drive anything big...it and the relay would go pop.

The bike battery can supply more than enough current without affecting the relay 'switching' to crank up the ballast(s). It sounds to me like the back EMF is confusing the autoswitch's circuitry which is (I think) dependant on the ground.

Bypassing the autoswitch and applying 12v and gnd from a separate source to the 85 & 86 pins would only prove the relay worked..if too much current was being sourced, the fuse would blow (you do have a fuse don't you??) :)
 
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Where's the power source for the HIDs?

On the relay there should also be a terminal marked '30'. You need a fused feed directly from the battery +ve terminal to terminal 30 and all should be well.

Greg
 
What I meant earlier was if the HID and the autoswitch have the same positive wire to the battery, and this wire is too small, when the HID ballast starts the voltdrop across the too small wire might reduce the supply voltage to the autoswitch to the point where it de-energises the relay coil.

But if the supply to pin 30 on the relay was by a separate connection to the battery, and the autoswitch had its own +ve connection to the battery, then this would not apply, as there would be no common wiring.

If the back EMF was a problem, then why would this be an issue with HIDs but not "normal" lights? I used an autoswitch to drive foglamps on my 1150 with no problems. I suspect that the autoswitch might have a diode to deal with back EMF built in anyway.

But the idea about the earth might be the problem, although if the earth circuit is separate from the HID ballasts back to earth, and not connected to the autoswitch earth it's hard to see how the back EMF from the ballasts (which I would have expected to appear when they are turned off) should not be able to affect the autoswitch.

Isn't Rob Farmer the designer of the autoswitch? If so, perhaps a PM to him might cast some light on the subject (pardon the pun).
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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