Licence holder mounting

John Roberts

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For the last 30 years I have either not displayed my licence on the '82 R100RS or have Sellotaped it to the inside of the windscreen. As far as I can see there is nowhere to safely fix a licence holder on the bike and I am unwilling to drill a hole in my bike for one. I have seen holders fixed under caliper mounting bolts and under lower subframe fixing bolts, no way am I doing that.

So how do you do it?
 
Brake caliper bolt ?

Why won't you use a thin tax holder & mount it with the brake caliper bolt.
Caused no disasters with any of my Airheads. :thumb
 
This thread has really made my day:thumb


You should have moved it to the 1200 forum Dan :D






I can't see why you would see it a potentialy dangerous to fit your tax disc to the brake bolt or a subframe mounting?? :nenau


People have been doing just this for dacades, without serious consequences.



Val
 
Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo !!! It'll be what do you wash your seat with next !!!

I think I'll nuke this thread...people are talking about us !!!

I'm just about to start rebuilding the heads/barrels etc etc on my friends st and this pops up....we'll be discussing Suzuki Burgmans next !!!
 
I have never in my life felt the need to do 'get a life' style comments. In my world, people can ask whatever questions they like.
 
I can't see why you would see it a potentialy dangerous to fit your tax disc to the brake bolt or a subframe mounting?? :nenau
Oh, well, here goes, then.

The caliper is rigidly bolted to the lugs on the front fork. The caliper is rigid, the lugs are rigid, the fork is a rigid casting. If I put a licence holder (be it thin or otherwise) into one of the joints between the caliper and the lug and then tighten both fixing bolts up to the quoted torque, then summat's got to give. The chances are that the caliper body won't, because it's a substantial bit of metal, but what about the lugs on the fork leg- they are far less substantial and will twist. No question about it, they have no choice, they will distort. As they are cast on the side of the fork they in turn will conceivably distort the bore of the fork wherein the damping components slide up and down within close tolerances. Call me picky- I don't want such distortions for the sake of a licence holder.

To overcome these points there is of course the option of inserting a washer or spacer of matching thickness into the other fixing to level things up. This will have the effect of offsetting the caliper to one side and will result in one caliper piston being able to come out more than it is designed to when at the wear limit of the pad on that side.

As to putting the licence holder under the bolt holding the rear subframe- well, my objection to that isn't quite as rational, other than simply the fact that I don't like to do it with the bolt it as it is. What I would prefer would be to use a longer bolt and have it reversed so that its head is on the inside of the bracket on the frame then put the washer and then the nut back on, then the licence holder, a lockwasher and then another nut (or possibly a dome nut because of the proximity of my passenger's boots/shoes) to hold the holder.
People have been doing just this for dacades, without serious consequences.

Val
Fair enough, and I can't argue with real world. :thumb2 To be honest, I appreciate that most will think that my reasoning is a bit airy-fairy, it could even be that it's all to do with my tradition of finding problems and reasons to avoid getting off my backside and actually doing things.

The reason I asked the question was that although I have been sticking my tax discs on the inside of the screen for the last 30 years and never had it pinched (never been to Liverpool on it ;)) there is a fair amount of yellow encrusted Sellotape adhesive on the screen by now that is proving hard to remove without scratching the Perspex, and every six months/year for the last thirty years I've thought that I really ought to get a licence holder and also where to fix it. Mañana, that's the word I'm looking for. :thumb
 
Oh, well, here goes, then.

The caliper is rigidly bolted to the lugs on the front fork. The caliper is rigid, the lugs are rigid, the fork is a rigid casting. If I put a licence holder (be it thin or otherwise) into one of the joints between the caliper and the lug and then tighten both fixing bolts up to the quoted torque, then summat's got to give. The chances are that the caliper body won't, because it's a substantial bit of metal, but what about the lugs on the fork leg- they are far less substantial and will twist. No question about it, they have no choice, they will distort. As they are cast on the side of the fork they in turn will conceivably distort the bore of the fork wherein the damping components slide up and down within close tolerances. Call me picky- I don't want such distortions for the sake of a licence holder.

To overcome these points there is of course the option of inserting a washer or spacer of matching thickness into the other fixing to level things up. This will have the effect of offsetting the caliper to one side and will result in one caliper piston being able to come out more than it is designed to when at the wear limit of the pad on that side.

As to putting the licence holder under the bolt holding the rear subframe- well, my objection to that isn't quite as rational, other than simply the fact that I don't like to do it with the bolt it as it is. What I would prefer would be to use a longer bolt and have it reversed so that its head is on the inside of the bracket on the frame then put the washer and then the nut back on, then the licence holder, a lockwasher and then another nut (or possibly a dome nut because of the proximity of my passenger's boots/shoes) to hold the holder.

Fair enough, and I can't argue with real world. :thumb2 To be honest, I appreciate that most will think that my reasoning is a bit airy-fairy, it could even be that it's all to do with my tradition of finding problems and reasons to avoid getting off my backside and actually doing things.

The reason I asked the question was that although I have been sticking my tax discs on the inside of the screen for the last 30 years and never had it pinched (never been to Liverpool on it ;)) there is a fair amount of yellow encrusted Sellotape adhesive on the screen by now that is proving hard to remove without scratching the Perspex, and every six months/year for the last thirty years I've thought that I really ought to get a licence holder and also where to fix it. Mañana, that's the word I'm looking for. :thumb

Don't put the holder between the calliper and the lug, that is daft for the reasons you have metioned. But you could put the holder between the head of the bolt and the calliper.
 
Don't put the holder between the calliper and the lug, that is daft for the reasons you have metioned. But you could put the holder between the head of the bolt and the calliper.
Well, feck me pink! Just been out to the bike (yes-NOW!) and you're right. I thought the heads of the bolts holding the calipers on were recessed in the caliper body, but THEY ARE NOT!!! (it's the bolts holding the halves of the calipers together that are recessed.

Don't I feel a twat. :blast

And thank you brassmonkey001. :beerjug:
 
Well, feck me pink! Just been out to the bike (yes-NOW!) and you're right. I thought the heads of the bolts holding the calipers on were recessed in the caliper body, but THEY ARE NOT!!! (it's the bolts holding the halves of the calipers together that are recessed.

Don't I feel a twat. :blast

And thank you brassmonkey001. :beerjug:

:hapybnce:

De nada!
 
Don't put the holder between the calliper and the lug, that is daft for the reasons you have metioned. But you could put the holder between the head of the bolt and the calliper.

Well, feck me pink! Just been out to the bike (yes-NOW!) and you're right. I thought the heads of the bolts holding the calipers on were recessed in the caliper body, but THEY ARE NOT!!! (it's the bolts holding the halves of the calipers together that are recessed.

Don't I feel a twat. :blast

And thank you brassmonkey001. :beerjug:


Well done John :thumb2 Always worth asking the question no matter how much flack you think you might get :hide

There is almost always some one out there who has a straight forward solution to your question. In this case Monkey got there before the rest of us :augie

Glad you got it sorted in the end. Even if it did take thirty years :blast


Val.

PS: I agree with everything in your argument. Except the cast lower fork leg bit.

I'm affaraid that it won't cause the cast tube to go out of shape with the recomended torque setting. What it will do; is to shear the mounting lug off the cast leg. :tears

So you where right not to try, though maybe not for the reason you had considered.

:thumb2:thumb2 :D
 
Luckily us 1200 owners are far too gentile to rip the erse out of this.

:beerjug:
Yes but you woofters will be arguing about whether a stainless one is better than a chrome one or moaning about how much the BMW dealership has charged for fitting it
 


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