Looking after your GS

sure its been asked a million times but just wondered if anyone could offer advice on keeping it clean, especially with the hose pipe ban in force. of all the bikes ive had, my 1200gs is the hardest to clean. my fat fingers cant get into the recesses on the engine and cylinders and I just cant reach half of the flithy bits underneath and below the battery. ive just got back from an ABR rally and the bike was gopping, ive spent hours on it this morning and its better but still hardly pristine.

any advice on cleaning products that just get rid of it all would be much appreciated.

Cheers
Dan

Just bring it to Wales to wash it:D Loads of water here:thumb2
 
don't worry about it,give it a dousing & spray acf 50 and ride it,bollocks to spending hours making it shiney,it looks better dirty:ronno
 
I use act 50 and still do at the moment but starting to think its overrated . I whack it on, ride it for a few weeks and can't seem to find any left t all around the engine. The whole thing is bone dry. Doesn't seem to be reacting very well to heat, even in the cavities
 
Great advice

I did that on my last GS, (it was an automotive cavity wax) - and left it on for about 2 yrs. Washed the bike occasionally, and when I decided to sell the bike - removed the wax using Gunk Eco-clean.

It came up gleaming like a new pin :thumb2

Al
 
My solution is this: Don't wash it in summer, no salt, no issue. Get a hack for the winter.

Your 1200GS will remain "as new" using the above.
 
Are you folks really having this conversation? Is this real?

:comfort

Can someone pls move it to the "BeakChat & Bollocks" section?
 
I use SDOC100 power gel. Awesome stuff.:thumb

I wasn't happy with MucOff as it leaves a film. Bought some SDOC cleaning gel and applied dry as the instructions said. Pretty amazing stuff. I sprayed some on the footpegs and didn't scrub it at all and came clean.
 
I'm sure ACF50 is good at protecting alloy bolts and fittings, but on most of the bike - you are protecting................ PAINT.

Use a clear-ish cavity wax, and just spray it direct from the aerosol - don't fcuk about with spraying into a cup and then using a paintbrush.

Al :thumb2
 
sure its been asked a million times but just wondered if anyone could offer advice on keeping it clean, especially with the hose pipe ban in force. of all the bikes ive had, my 1200gs is the hardest to clean. my fat fingers cant get into the recesses on the engine and cylinders and I just cant reach half of the flithy bits underneath and below the battery. ive just got back from an ABR rally and the bike was gopping, ive spent hours on it this morning and its better but still hardly pristine.

any advice on cleaning products that just get rid of it all would be much appreciated.

Cheers
Dan

Its a GS ffs, doesn't need cleaning, but if you must - get yourself one of those garden insecticide spray container jobbies. Brush the bike with a motorcycle cleaner, example - fuc off, and fill said container with water, pump up the pressure and you good to go. Actually it's much gentler than a pressure washer but really works a treat.:hide
 
I wasn't happy with MucOff as it leaves a film. Bought some SDOC cleaning gel and applied dry as the instructions said. Pretty amazing stuff. I sprayed some on the footpegs and didn't scrub it at all and came clean.

My first post as just ordered a GS Rallye which I'm picking up Wednesday. Anyway, completely agree with the above. I bought some for cleaning cycles and my motorbikes and it's like witchcraft!....expensive witchcraft though as I reckon in works out at about £3 per clean!
 
wots all this bollox about spending hours cleaning yur bike, I get the wife to do all my cleaning thats what I married her for, and if yur that ugly you cant get a wifey, get your sister or your mother to do it.
 
Ride was giving some away a while ago with a subscription which I should have taken. I got some from Hein Gerrick for £15. Much more expensive than Mucoff but you don't use as much.
 
I often use a soft sash brush (very common to buy in France etc, limited choice in the UK) when I wash the bike, tis easier to get into recesses and cavities. The cheaper artificial bristles are better when you're using them for washing, the natural ones tend to get damaged more quickly and rot if you don't dry them afterwards.



I'm a firm lover of FS365, I ride all year round and on other bikes (only had my gs a couple of weeks so too early to tell), say my TDM that I had from new, after 35000 miles and three winters commute, after a wash it looked like it had come out of the showroom. :blagblah
 
I often use a soft sash brush (very common to buy in France etc, limited choice in the UK) when I wash the bike, tis easier to get into recesses and cavities. The cheaper artificial bristles are better when you're using them for washing, the natural ones tend to get damaged more quickly and rot if you don't dry them afterwards.



I'm a firm lover of FS365, I ride all year round and on other bikes (only had my gs a couple of weeks so too early to tell), say my TDM that I had from new, after 35000 miles and three winters commute, after a wash it looked like it had come out of the showroom. :blagblah


i bought some of the stuff but it seemed to dry white and leave white liquid in recesses.
 
Cotton buds, dipped in unleaded are ideal for cleaning the road grime and tar from between the cylinder fins
 


Back
Top Bottom