Looking for help!

[Gibbo1974]

Hi all,

Long story short, I rescued a 2007 R1200GS from my neighbours barn. It was put in there 16 years ago and had only done 20k

Cleaned tank
cleaned injectors
Replaced ignition coils
Replaced fuel filter and pump
Full service
New tyres
Buggered off to Wales and did over 1000 miles on and off road!

She has now done over 2000miles but then cut out on the motorway! GS911 has thrown me this:

10444(0x28CC)
Fault Code Description
Fuse activated for component Ignition Supply (starter relay, Immo (EWS) ring antenna, ignition coils, injectors)

Assuming the starter relay is the one under the seat, only one I can find and seems to work fine

Ruling out coils as they are new

Injectors have been ultra sonic’d and she runs lovely

What is the EWS and can it fail intermittently? She has done 60miles since with no issue!

Any help welcome.

 

[Gibbo1974]

Ps I have swapped the Fuel Pump controller with one that is working and both work fine when activated via the GS911

 

[botus]

ring antenna around the ignition switch can just die - about £50 and easy to do with the right process

BMW EWS – Electronic Immobilizer on CAN-bus BMW motorcycles

BMW EWS – Electronic Immobilizer on CAN-bus BMW motorcycles EWS failure has been known to be an issue with the R1200GS (and other BMW motorcycles). This article should help you understand what the EWS system is, how it works and what happens when the EWS fails. There is also guidance on how to...

motorcycleinfo.co.uk

give quick heads up - the ring antenna is about 50 quid from you main BMW dealer and according to them makes the fuel strip look reliable...

To fit the new part, the ring antenna lifts off over the top of the ignition switch - so you need to remove the whole ignition switch / ring antenna from the top yoke from down below - its held on with two stupid security bolts (and if you want to do this the BMW way you need to buy two new bolts from the dealer with the antenna and the special BM tool (No 510531) to do them up - you don't want these bolts as its no longer a side of the road repair - if anyone can find and get at these they'll be stealing the bike anyway

BMW instructions say to drill a 4.5m pilot hole 6mm deep then use an 8.5 mm drill so the bolt head falls off, and after dropping out the switch, extract the two bolt studs (ignore BMW...)

these days you can buy drill bits with the 1/4 hex shank like the screw driver tips use - buy a 5mm one from screwfix, and also buy a sacrificial T25 torx driver bit and a 6" long screw driver tip extension bit for your drill - and get two 8mm x 30mm cap head bolts. Other stuff a hammer, a magnet on a stick and for good measure some masking tape to hold rubbish back / protect the bottom fork tubes).

1) Up top - pop off the two tiny torx bolts nearest the cluster and get the plastic trim cover from the base of the ignition switch and remove the pair of wiring connections and get them tied out of the way
2) Now down below looking up get your magnet somewhere up in the gods near the bolt head and tape it from falling out. Forget a center punch - the soft strange security bolts have a hole that centers the drill for the thieves to take you bike anyway. Now using the screw driver tip extension and the strange drill bit, a battery operated drill fits quite nicely just off the mudguard and drill a 5mm x 5mm deep hole in the center of each of the two bolts, (trying to use a conventional short drill bit will likely have you trashing brake and clutch hoses doing looms and swearing a lot)
3) get your sacrificial T25 1/4" tip and place in the 6" driver extension - now reach up with a hammer and tap the torx bit into the soft bolt head - they are going to be about 20lb ft tight and the loctite makes them tight all the way out
4) with the bolts out the ignition switch can be wiggled past all the detritus around the headstock. On the bench its obvious a little persuasion with a small pick will allow you to unclip the ring antenna from the switch
5) clip on the new antenna, wiggle the switch back up ensuring nothing is trapped - with BMW even using nice washers to go with your smaller headed cap heads


round of applause to Steptoe for his torx driver top tip... (obviously a few cable ties to get at the part need to be removed and replaced afterwards)

 

[Slipperyeel]

The starter relay is (I think, maybe yours is the same as the twin cam - maybe someone else can chime in to confirm) - behind the computers, so it's tank off to reach them...

But as above, ring antenna could be the culprit. So could the fuel controller as you mention.
But a main fuse going suggests something bigger (like a relay)...

Not sure if that's much help!

 

[Gibbo1974]

ring antenna around the ignition switch can just die - about £50 and easy to do with the right process

BMW EWS – Electronic Immobilizer on CAN-bus BMW motorcycles

BMW EWS – Electronic Immobilizer on CAN-bus BMW motorcycles EWS failure has been known to be an issue with the R1200GS (and other BMW motorcycles). This article should help you understand what the EWS system is, how it works and what happens when the EWS fails. There is also guidance on how to...

motorcycleinfo.co.uk

give quick heads up - the ring antenna is about 50 quid from you main BMW dealer and according to them makes the fuel strip look reliable...

To fit the new part, the ring antenna lifts off over the top of the ignition switch - so you need to remove the whole ignition switch / ring antenna from the top yoke from down below - its held on with two stupid security bolts (and if you want to do this the BMW way you need to buy two new bolts from the dealer with the antenna and the special BM tool (No 510531) to do them up - you don't want these bolts as its no longer a side of the road repair - if anyone can find and get at these they'll be stealing the bike anyway

BMW instructions say to drill a 4.5m pilot hole 6mm deep then use an 8.5 mm drill so the bolt head falls off, and after dropping out the switch, extract the two bolt studs (ignore BMW...)

these days you can buy drill bits with the 1/4 hex shank like the screw driver tips use - buy a 5mm one from screwfix, and also buy a sacrificial T25 torx driver bit and a 6" long screw driver tip extension bit for your drill - and get two 8mm x 30mm cap head bolts. Other stuff a hammer, a magnet on a stick and for good measure some masking tape to hold rubbish back / protect the bottom fork tubes).

1) Up top - pop off the two tiny torx bolts nearest the cluster and get the plastic trim cover from the base of the ignition switch and remove the pair of wiring connections and get them tied out of the way
2) Now down below looking up get your magnet somewhere up in the gods near the bolt head and tape it from falling out. Forget a center punch - the soft strange security bolts have a hole that centers the drill for the thieves to take you bike anyway. Now using the screw driver tip extension and the strange drill bit, a battery operated drill fits quite nicely just off the mudguard and drill a 5mm x 5mm deep hole in the center of each of the two bolts, (trying to use a conventional short drill bit will likely have you trashing brake and clutch hoses doing looms and swearing a lot)
3) get your sacrificial T25 1/4" tip and place in the 6" driver extension - now reach up with a hammer and tap the torx bit into the soft bolt head - they are going to be about 20lb ft tight and the loctite makes them tight all the way out
4) with the bolts out the ignition switch can be wiggled past all the detritus around the headstock. On the bench its obvious a little persuasion with a small pick will allow you to unclip the ring antenna from the switch
5) clip on the new antenna, wiggle the switch back up ensuring nothing is trapped - with BMW even using nice washers to go with your smaller headed cap heads


round of applause to Steptoe for his torx driver top tip... (obviously a few cable ties to get at the part need to be removed and replaced afterwards)

Wow! Great reply thanks!!!

So would this cause to bike to just DIE on the Motorway doing 70mph?

 

[Santa-2512]

EWS fault will not stop you when bike running,

EWS will prevent bike starting, do a search loads of EWS threads

Id be leaning toward fuel pump controller ,

Yes it runs when prodded by the GS911, but it may not be running when other parts of the system are also talking to things

Try bypassing the FPC (either of them) and see if the bike runs

 

[botus]

if its been off the road for as long as you say there could be a few freebies awaiting fitment at a BMW dealer

fuel pump controller - filled with water - recall for a freebie circa 2010
steel brake pipes fracture - recall for freebies (mind they don't "accidentally" get their moneys worth blowing up the ABS module) circa 2011
fuel pump - recall unions crack off the top of the pump and spray fuel around, recall for a freebie (mind they don't "accidentally" get their moneys worth making your fuel gauge heated strip blow up) circa 2015
rear wheel falls off - recall for a steel hub - (again mind they don't "accidentally" get their moneys worth destroying bearings in the bevel) circa 2015

 

[JJH]

Before you start replacing things a squirt of easy start into the air intake will tell you lots. I’d it runs it’s a fuel problem. If it doesn’t its ignition. JJH

 

[Mistacat]

On a 2007 Bike the starter relay is under the seat not under the computers as on the twin cam so you are looking at the correct relay.
As suggested try easy start or just pull an injector and see if it is squirting.

 

[Gibbo1974]

if its been off the road for as long as you say there could be a few freebies awaiting fitment at a BMW dealer

fuel pump controller - filled with water - recall for a freebie circa 2010
steel brake pipes fracture - recall for freebies (mind they don't "accidentally" get their moneys worth blowing up the ABS module) circa 2011
fuel pump - recall unions crack off the top of the pump and spray fuel around, recall for a freebie (mind they don't "accidentally" get their moneys worth making your fuel gauge heated strip blow up) circa 2015
rear wheel falls off - recall for a steel hub - (again mind they don't "accidentally" get their moneys worth destroying bearings in the bevel) circa 2015

That is a very good point, i will get my VIN in to them and find out!

Bike starts fine if you cycle the ignition.

Fuel pump controller was from a working bike with zero issues.

Like the idea of my back wheel NOT falling off!!!!!

 

[Santa-2512]

Lets start from the begining and work through

I'd like to understand why you did certain stuff, the GS is a relaible tractor, and unless parts are bust will go on for miles

1) you cleaned the tank , why & how

2) You cleaned the injectors , again why & how, and did you verify working and good spray pattern?

3) Replaced ignition coils why ? with what? new oem? SH / pattern , and did your verify working

4) Replaced fuel filter and pump, Why? with what , new oem SH / pattern

The reason i'm asking wheter your replacing old for new or pattern is its a 19 year old bike , so if your replacing with SH parts, youve potentialy replaced old parts for more old parts

Full service? what did you do you havnt said what the mileage is , but on a 2007 i'd expect at least

Brake fluid* - based on (Age)
Alternator belt - based on (age)
Valve clearances - based on Mileage
Oil change - annual 20W/50 non synthetic oil
Oil filter - annual (use genuine oem omly)
Air filter - based on milage & age
Final drive oil based on mileage & age
Gearbox oil based on mileage & age

I'm trying to understand why you replaced so many components

you keep adding info in as we go along , which makes diagnosis a tad difficult ( and i keep getting feelings of deja vue) ive had a similar thread like this before

In terms of i fitted a part from a known good bike , yes that helps, but a part fitted from another 2007 bike is near on 20 years old so could fail / be failing

The fault code - Fuse activated for component Ignition Supply (starter relay, Immo (EWS) ring antenna, ignition coils, injectors)

If i recall the GS dosent have fuses as such, they vehicle electronics do the job of fuses, and will cut out if an overload situation occurs


Looking at a wiring diagram for the bike all of the above components bar the Starter relay are controlled by the engine control unit

If the bike is running the EWS ring antenna is fine , its job is to prevent starting if the immobiliser chip cannot be read or presents the wrong value

Then its suck, squeeze, bang, blow

Start with the basics

does the fuel pump prime and stop

Is fuel getting to the injectors

Have you got compression

have you got spark

have you got an unrstricted cat & exhaust - ie not blocked

for the bike to cut out it needs to either loose ignition / fuel or both

have you checked the tank breather too, if is blocked the tak cant vent & fuel cant move

Given youve replaced lots of components on the fuel and igntion side , i'd be looking there first

one last thing -- battery, have you got a good battery , at 19 years old i'd definatly invest in a good battery mottobat or oddysey are highly reccomended

 

[Gibbo1974]

Lets start from the begining and work through

I'd like to understand why you did certain stuff, the GS is a relaible tractor, and unless parts are bust will go on for miles

1) you cleaned the tank , why & how

2) You cleaned the injectors , again why & how, and did you verify working and good spray pattern?

3) Replaced ignition coils why ? with what? new oem? SH / pattern , and did your verify working

4) Replaced fuel filter and pump, Why? with what , new oem SH / pattern

The reason i'm asking wheter your replacing old for new or pattern is its a 19 year old bike , so if your replacing with SH parts, youve potentialy replaced old parts for more old parts

Full service? what did you do you havnt said what the mileage is , but on a 2007 i'd expect at least

Brake fluid* - based on (Age)
Alternator belt - based on (age)
Valve clearances - based on Mileage
Oil change - annual 20W/50 non synthetic oil
Oil filter - annual (use genuine oem omly)
Air filter - based on milage & age
Final drive oil based on mileage & age
Gearbox oil based on mileage & age

I'm trying to understand why you replaced so many components

you keep adding info in as we go along , which makes diagnosis a tad difficult ( and i keep getting feelings of deja vue) ive had a similar thread like this before

In terms of i fitted a part from a known good bike , yes that helps, but a part fitted from another 2007 bike is near on 20 years old so could fail / be failing

The fault code - Fuse activated for component Ignition Supply (starter relay, Immo (EWS) ring antenna, ignition coils, injectors)

If i recall the GS dosent have fuses as such, they vehicle electronics do the job of fuses, and will cut out if an overload situation occurs


Looking at a wiring diagram for the bike all of the above components bar the Starter relay are controlled by the engine control unit

If the bike is running the EWS ring antenna is fine , its job is to prevent starting if the immobiliser chip cannot be read or presents the wrong value

Then its suck, squeeze, bang, blow

Start with the basics

does the fuel pump prime and stop

Is fuel getting to the injectors

Have you got compression

have you got spark

have you got an unrstricted cat & exhaust - ie not blocked

for the bike to cut out it needs to either loose ignition / fuel or both

have you checked the tank breather too, if is blocked the tak cant vent & fuel cant move

Given youve replaced lots of components on the fuel and igntion side , i'd be looking there first

one last thing -- battery, have you got a good battery , at 19 years old i'd definatly invest in a good battery mottobat or oddysey are highly reccomended

Agreed yes they are reliable, I have had four so far, this is my 5th and the first one that has ever just died whilst going along at speed.

The bike had been in a garage and hadn’t turned a wheel for 16 years. Tank was full of rust. The pump motor was shot and had rusted so much it had split the housing.

Given the state of the fuel system I thought it good practice to ultrasonic the injectors and burp them etc

Both bottom coils were dead (verified with spark tester when running) thought I might as well replace all four, from BMW Motorworks, assume there stuff is spot on.

Got a new alternator belt but have yet to fit it. The old one is still pliable and very tight. Had ‘t thought of that though it may be slipping

Brakes were seized so yes a strip down and clean of the Callipers and a fluid flush. ABS unit died whilst cycling it with the 911 which is a shame but I use this bike for what it was made for and I get it muddy and dusty!

Got Air
Got Compression
Got Spark
Got an exhaust too lol

I understand the basics but the bike is shutting itself off as per the error code.

Sorry if this post isn’t perfect, i am not a professional mechanic just a forum member looking for advice.

Maybe my post was a little messy but this is the basic version:

Bike runs like a dream
Bike stops on motorway at 70mph for no apparent reason
Bike starts again after reboot

Bike gave code

Owner posts code looking for help

 

[Slipperyeel]

On a 2007 Bike the starter relay is under the seat not under the computers as on the twin cam so you are looking at the correct relay.
As suggested try easy start or just pull an injector and see if it is squirting.

Thanks for the correction. Seems like a much more sensible place for them!
Out of interest, does the pre-twin cam have a fuse box or was that also virtual back then?

 

[TLSgazza]

Thanks for the correction. Seems like a much more sensible place for them!
Out of interest, does the pre-twin cam have a fuse box or was that also virtual back then?

No fuses on my 06. Just for the spotlights