Major Electrical issue

Davey Bee

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Over the last 2 weekends I have put 2 fully charged batteries on my XC only to find it totally dead the following morning. Last week I did a few jobs which meant removing the airbox and such (have TT tank) up 'till then, the battery was ok. Bike had been standing for around a month, and wouldn't start, but the battery had turned it over strongly a few times before flattening. As I said charged it over Friday night, started bike ok. I then took it for a short ride, local fuel station, jet washed bike!! Rode back parked up, Sunday morning dead as a doedoe. Ordered a lithium battery which I fitted yesterday, back to the bike just now, dead!
So would the jet wash have played a part if so what, or should be looking elsewhere. I did pick up a secondhand regulator as well, but I can't see any obvious signs of problems there. HELP
 
Check for a parasitic draw would be the first check I would do.
 
First disconnect the battery terminals and leads and clean them to bright metal.

Then disconnect the main earth connection on the engine/gearbox and clean the casing and lead to bright metal.

Recharge your battery for 24 hours at least to get it fully charged preferably using a Smart Charger.

Reconnect the battery and main earth.

It may also be that there is something draining your battery due to a fault in the bike circuits.

Your second-hand Regulator is suspect in this situation.

Any alarm system fitted is also a prime suspect.

To check if your battery is being drained, disconnect the NEGATIVE (earth) terminal.
Connect an Ammeter Negative lead to the battery Negative terminal.
Set the Ammeter to read around 5 Amps or more.
TOUCH the Ammeter POSITIVE lead onto the disconnected Battery Negative lead - the Ammeter will display any current flowing.

You should not see any current flowing when the Ignition is Off other than about 2 m/A (0.002 Amp) for any clock fitted.

Check that the Alternator is charging the battery by measuring the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running at 2500 rpm.
The voltage should be 14 - 14.5 volts if the Alternator is charging the battery.

NEVER jet wash a bike!!!

A careful hosing is acceptable but never a pressure wash as this can remove the grease from the wheel bearings and get into the electrical connectors and instruments.
A hand wash is always preferable to a hose wash for this reason.
 
Sounds like you could have a sticking relay.

Remove one of the battery connections as mentioned in previous posts, and connect the meter in line. Then go through the bike, and remove and replace each of the relays, each time checking the current draw on the meter for any variation, likewise with the regulator as well. It should be soon obvious if any of the relays are on the offending circuit.

Most of the relays are a cheap swop. IIRC the expensive one was the starter at around £35. even if it isn't the relay, by noting the relay number and location it will give you a good idea of which circuit the issue lies on.

I'd also check the wiring around the head stock on the bike as well, for any signs of chaffing.

I did have issues with the starter relay on my bike, constantly blowing fuses on start up. Just swopping the relay cured this.

HTH
 
Thanks I'll have to buy a metre as mine is 200 miles up the road. I haven't fitted the regulator yet so it's not that, and the discharge is happening even though the bike has not been run so that takes out the alternator.


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no meter?
When connecting the battery is there a significant spark - showing current is being drawn? with ignition turned off (obviously)
If so then take each relay out in turn and check the spark on battery terminal connection again.
This may help show what area the fault lies?
 
I think I may have found suspect, there is a switch that is showing live in both positions. In the off position it drops some current, but is still live.


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Davey Bee said:
I think I may have found suspect, there is a switch that is showing live in both positions. In the off position it drops some current, but is still live.


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Click to expand...

Is this switch an oe switch or an aftermarket accessory? Most circuit's on this bike only operate with ignition on, suggesting relay or rectifier as above.

I am intrigued. Good luck.
 
GFJ said:
Is this switch an oe switch or an aftermarket accessory? Most circuit's on this bike only operate with ignition on, suggesting relay or rectifier as above.

I am intrigued. Good luck.
Click to expand...

Or it's running from a feed taken directly from the battery, by-passing the ignition circuit?
 
I suspect the switch has allowed water in when I het washed it. I'm going to change it tomorrow and see what happens.


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Not the switch, so it maybe an associated relay. try and get into before dark tonight
 
Found 2 relays are there any more?


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Davey Bee said:
Found 2 relays are there any more?


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Click to expand...

Stop messing around and put an Ammeter in series with the battery Negative (earth) lead and see if there is any current flowing when the Ignition is Off.

If you haven't got a meter then borrow one or buy a cheap one which you will have for any further work needed on your bike.

You need a multi-meter which will measure current (DC), volts (AC & DC) and resistance, so check what you are buying.

Most multi-meters, especially the ones designed for working on vehicles, will have a separate 20 Amp DC current range.
Even using this high range, you should be able to easily see if the battery is draining 0.5 Amps or more.

You can buy a suitable meter for under £10.

You need to tool up to save yourself time and effort and get to the root of the problem without guessing.
 
Galactic Greyhound said:
Stop messing around and put an Ammeter in series with the battery Negative (earth) lead and see if there is any current flowing when the Ignition is Off.

If you haven't got a meter then borrow one or buy a cheap one which you will have for any further work needed on your bike.

You need a multi-meter which will measure current (DC), volts (AC & DC) and resistance, so check what you are buying.

Most multi-meters, especially the ones designed for working on vehicles, will have a separate 20 Amp DC current range.
Even using this high range, you should be able to easily see if the battery is draining 0.5 Amps or more.

You can buy a suitable meter for under £10.

You need to tool up to save yourself time and effort and get to the root of the problem without guessing.
Click to expand...

The right tool for the job is the term that springs to mind, but if you have the wrong fool on the job, good tools don't help. For the life of me I don't understand electric, other that it's invisible and it hurts.
Anyway progress, having changed the suspect switch and the relays I seem to have solved the problem. Battery was strong yesterday, will check again today. Finding a local auto Electrian, that's not booked up for the next 10 years is near on impossible in my neck of the woods.
Thanks for all the help and advice.
 
Spoke too soon, the RS dead again


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Galactic Greyhound said:
Symptoms?
Click to expand...
Discharging battery overnight. Anyway took your advice but used a amp metre which showed .14-.17 amps, which I believe was the drain. Anyway tracked it down to a relay that I thought I'd changed, which may have been a spare that came with the bike. Checked again and there was zero drain. If I've sorted it, then I'm happy it went wrong, as it forced me (along with a kick up the arse from your good self) to learn something useful. It gives me a little more confidence for my trip. Thank you.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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