No dismantling needed - Very simple - Just pull the final drive flange seal out and you can see the bearing cage... or whats left of it in your case.
Ah bollix.
This should be interesting
Metal flakes in the final drive oil
- Thread starter Comfy Old Boots
- Start date
Ah bollix.
This should be interesting
As I said before, (unless it's just the big bearing/seal that's failed), give to somebody that knows their way around these units. Otherwise you might end up throwing money at it but not sorting the real issue and having multiple problems.
I think that a lot of the FD issues on 1150's was down to too wide a tolerance or factory builds out of tolerance. A well rebuilt unit should last at least 30,000+ miles.
I will do that.
Steptoe, thank's for the tip about just removing the seal instead of splitting the box. I'll need to split the box though to check if there is any other wear and tear? Previous owner said that there was a small dent in one of the slots on the Pinion input shaft whatsit thingie. I'll have photos up by tea time. not in mood for work so I'm going to go home early.
Ok, you ready for this?
Movement in taper roller bearing https://vimeo.com/111654913
Bearings sound and feel ok. Not free like rollarskates but smooth. I can't figure out how to remove the seal though so can't check visuallyhttps://vimeo.com/111655178
Sent by SOB
Movement in taper roller bearing https://vimeo.com/111654913
Bearings sound and feel ok. Not free like rollarskates but smooth. I can't figure out how to remove the seal though so can't check visuallyhttps://vimeo.com/111655178
Sent by SOB
The photos really don't show how destroyed the pinion shaft is. Bottom two bolts on the wheel side were really hard to get out too. Looks like I need LOTS OF PARTS.
Ok well I know what I'm going to do. Replacement box from motorworks and the fubar box is going to Dr farkov for being an absolute legend on the phone with me earlier. Much appreciated doc. Hope the box gives suitable 'wtf' exclamations from those that see it.
On the positive, I've learned a massive amount in the last few days and I'm kinda buzzing with the new knowledge. I almost want a set of big bearings to fail so I can fix them at the side of some lonely road. Touch wood that does not happen but there ya go.
Rock on peeps!
Sent by SOB
On the positive, I've learned a massive amount in the last few days and I'm kinda buzzing with the new knowledge. I almost want a set of big bearings to fail so I can fix them at the side of some lonely road. Touch wood that does not happen but there ya go.
Rock on peeps!
Sent by SOB
. A little knowledge is a dangerous thing
A lot of knowledge is pointless unless you make good use of it.
Knowledge is :-
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/kn481KcjvMo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
P.S. it is common knowledge that if you carry the spares all around the world with you, your final bearing will never fail
Be at home for 6 weeks and then sell them as they are not needed
The feckin thing will fall apart the next day
Be at home for 6 weeks and then sell them as they are not needed
The feckin thing will fall apart the next day
Which is why I lugged a bearing and seal all over Alaska. Your theory proved absolutely correct. As I sold the bike earlier this year I can probably now sell the bearing and seal as well
I'm more concerned with what knowledge has been pushed out of my brain now that I've gained new knowledge. Anyway, hunting for a new box. Their a bit thin on the ground but I'll get there. Cheers all.
So the new bevel box arrived this morning. I'll be fitting it this evening.
The only thing that concerns me at the moment is that there is a tiny bit of play in the paralever bearings. Is there a way to check if the bearings are ok before I fit it to the bike? It would be a shame to have to find they are worn and if necessary I'd prefare to change them whilst the box is off... Can i use the bearings off the broken box if the these are worn?
Thanks.
The only thing that concerns me at the moment is that there is a tiny bit of play in the paralever bearings. Is there a way to check if the bearings are ok before I fit it to the bike? It would be a shame to have to find they are worn and if necessary I'd prefare to change them whilst the box is off... Can i use the bearings off the broken box if the these are worn?
Thanks.
are they worn,you would be amazed what the correct torque settings can sort out
Well this is the thing, what would the best way of checking if they are worn? 
They move in and out by about 2/3 mm (I.E. in and out towards the shaft)
They move in and out by about 2/3 mm (I.E. in and out towards the shaft)
Until there torqued up there will be a fair bit of play. Clean and inspect them really well, IIRC the cage for the needles is plastic and can easily get damaged. Look for any tell tale marks/indents on the rollers and actual bearing surface. I use a good marine grease on them when reassembling.
There's lots of threads on these expensive little bearings so worth a search. Make sure the pivot pins are also in good condition, i.e. smooth surface, no marks etc. I never use Loctite on reassembly, I just remove all traces of Loctite and make sure all threads are spotless including those in the swing arm. I also use a tiny amount of copper grease on the pins threads (I know your not supposed to, but I have done thousands of miles like this with no issues at all).
There's lots of threads on these expensive little bearings so worth a search. Make sure the pivot pins are also in good condition, i.e. smooth surface, no marks etc. I never use Loctite on reassembly, I just remove all traces of Loctite and make sure all threads are spotless including those in the swing arm. I also use a tiny amount of copper grease on the pins threads (I know your not supposed to, but I have done thousands of miles like this with no issues at all).
Thanks.
Just reading through this:
The replacement bevel box I have does not come with a pinion shaft, so I will have to remove this from the old box and fit to the new. Is the link I posted correct in saying, I need to attach the pinion shaft to the drive shaft and then attach the bevel box to that? I expect it is correct but I'd just like to double check in case it's easier to attach the pinion shaft to the bevel box first and then attach it to the bevel box?
Just reading through this:
The replacement bevel box I have does not come with a pinion shaft, so I will have to remove this from the old box and fit to the new. Is the link I posted correct in saying, I need to attach the pinion shaft to the drive shaft and then attach the bevel box to that? I expect it is correct but I'd just like to double check in case it's easier to attach the pinion shaft to the bevel box first and then attach it to the bevel box?
No, never that way. Fit the pinion shaft to the bevel box first. Give it a smart tap with a rubber/hide mallet to ensure the snap ring engages. Try pulling it off once fitted.
The only time I would put the pinion shaft onto the drive shaft first is so I can use some tippex/marker pen to show where it should all align (phased) when fitting. I then would slide it off and fitt it to the bevel box.
The only time I would put the pinion shaft onto the drive shaft first is so I can use some tippex/marker pen to show where it should all align (phased) when fitting. I then would slide it off and fitt it to the bevel box.
Have a watch of this Chris Harris you tube clip. He's one of the few americans not to over complicate simple things...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0_j8SuiFQI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0_j8SuiFQI
Ah grand. Thanks for the tip.
Two bikes on the road is better than one bike on the road.
Two bikes on the road is better than one bike on the road.
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