Mild heart attack with oil pressure light, on solid then off...!

[colesyboy]

Hi all,

Need the collated bmw brains out there for some advice....

In oxford street yesterday, in a massive traffic jam and it took about 20 minutes to get out of it. In that time the oil pressure light started to flicker on and eventually stayed on solid. But when moving the light went out. It was only when the bike was in neutral or when I pulled the clutch lever in that the light was on.

Eventually one I got a good stretch of road and got some wind flowing around the bike (apart from my own worry induced flatulence) that the lights went out and stayed out and is still out now.

This happened one time before when I was in Holborn similar thing massive traffic jam bike not going anywhere and the sodding light came on. That time I parked at and left it there for the day came back and the light didn't come on again, four months and 4000 miles later it happens again yesterday.

Could be the oil pump maybe I'm hoping it could be a sensor because it's cheap. I think to calm my own mind I need to get an oil pressure reading. But who knows, when ones knowledge of mechanics is limited the mind plays all kinds of tricks on you and emotions run from " ah, all's well, I'm just a worry wart" to " Christ I've killed my bike"

Finally yes there is plenty of oil on both occasions.

Have read about the oil pressure light coming on when it has no business doing so. So have taken the oil pressure sensor cable off (looked pretty clean to me), wd40'd it then put it back on.

Cheers guys,

Brian

 

[colesyboy]

um, its an r1150gs by the way.


fanks!

 

[Den]

How many miles has it done ?
When an engine is worn, the oil pressure can be low at tickover especially when its very hot.To put it simply, As the worn bits expand with the heat,and the hot oil being thinner, the oil can sqiurt out the gaps, lowering the oil pressure.

 

[Deak]

The oil pressure switch usually triggers at about 4/5 psi.

With no wind flow to cool the cylinders & oil cooler, combined with a low oil pump output at tick over and with extremley hot and thin oil, I would suggest that there probably isn't anything to worry about. Was the oil temperature gauge sky high at the same time?

It wouldn't hurt to replace the oil pressure switch as they are cheap, and perhaps use a synthetic or semi-synthetic oil if you are not already doing so.

 

[colesyboy]

The bike has done 37k miles so far. I don remember seeing the fuel temp topping out.

I really want to nail this problem as I am planning on taking the bike to India for a trip lasting 8 months....so pretty keen on the bugger not dying on me out there.

Cheers for the quick replies.

 

[riverking]

Hiya mate,

I don't know the 1150 set up in particular (I no longer have one) but a general routine in a situation like this would be to temporarily swap your oil pressure on/off light for a pressure gauge so that you can see what is actually happening. Someone on the site may have a made up rig, maybe dealers have them, worst case you can make up your own with relatively cheap bits (even from a scrappie). Steptoe will be along sometime no doubt, he can advise further (Good little item for the shop there Neil, oil pressure gauge kits - if you love your GS enough you will want to buy her one of these little diamonds etc. Ps. 20% if you please).

With reliable indication of both temperature & pressure you can do a lot of diagnostics.

 

[colesyboy]

Oil pressure kit - yes please - anyone got one here in the West London area today/next week? Keen to find out what the go story on this is.

Cheers,

Brian

 

[wessie]

The oil pressure switch usually triggers at about 4/5 psi.

With no wind flow to cool the cylinders & oil cooler, combined with a low oil pump output at tick over and with extremley hot and thin oil, I would suggest that there probably isn't anything to worry about. Was the oil temperature gauge sky high at the same time?

It wouldn't hurt to replace the oil pressure switch as they are cheap, and perhaps use a synthetic or semi-synthetic oil if you are not already doing so.

Your theory may be correct but I don't agree with your suggested solution. Switching oil to synthetic would not alter things if the OP kept to the same viscoscity. The OP needs to review the viscoscity of the oil in the engine and perhaps switch to a more suitable multigrade range. There is a chart in the owners handbook that explains this. If you don't have a manual handy then trawl through the thread on 20/50 oil as it was reproduced there.

 

[Greg Masters]

In that time the oil pressure light started to flicker on and eventually stayed on solid.

This sometimes happens when they get wet, but I don't think that it rained in Oxford Street yesterday.

Have you cleaned the outside of the switch? If not, try doing that before you develop too much more worry-induced flatulance!!

Greg

 

[Pukmeister]

I would recommend changing your oil and filter in case:

a) A previously dirty filter was limiting the flow of oil.
b) Running with low oil pressure may have cause some wear, particles from which will now be blocking your current filter.

It sounds like you could have a problem with one or more of the following:

Worn oil pump
Wrong grade of oil
Faulty oil relief valve (stuck open)
Excessive engine clearance (wear)
Faulty oil pressure switch
Overheating

Good advice on the oil pressure test with a suitable gauge. A workshop manual should give figures for oil pressure at certain revs and temperature.

I hope it is something simple.

 

[Taipan]

I got stuck in real heavy traffic on teh day after the London bombings. It was very hot and sunny. My oil light started flickering and then came on. I stopped the bike and waited fro 10 minutes. Then rode off and got onto some open roads. Never seen the light come on since and have noe covered 4k miles. I think teh oil just got very thin and runny. I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[colesyboy]

Thanks guys

Cheers for all the help and comments - esp. Taipan - nice to know my bike is not the only one doing odd things in the sun.

It does bother me though - will prolly replace sensor as a matter of course.

Brian

 

[gcp]

I had exactly the same problem on my RT (22k), started happening about a month after I bought it privately (no warranty).

When it was serviced the tech came out with "they all do that" line.

I changed the switch, easy and £8 odd. Not done it since.

 

[Ming]

poor connection on the oil switch.

as the engine gets hotter the resistance will increase on the poor connection hence the flicker then staying on

had it on mine at the ferry in newcastle at the start of the tossers tour gave it a wiggle to improve the connection and stayed off for the whole trip.

 

[colesyboy]

fanks

Ta again for the support on this - sodding thing didnt come at startup the other day. Now its fine again. I can see a ceremonial burning of the switch ahead.