MMC's D-Day beaches - a partwork

Great write up

Great write up, you obviously enjoyed it. Did you find the fridge in the wall at Adrians, that was always full of beer,

Regards

Nigel
 
Nice RR. :thumb2

Am half way through Antony Beevors excellent book 'D-Day The Battle for Normandy'. Like others have tended to head straight for the WW1 battle sites in the past. Is area is a definite 'to do'.
 
Great write up, you obviously enjoyed it. Did you find the fridge in the wall at Adrians, that was always full of beer,

Regards

Nigel

Hi Nigel,

Stayed with Karen and Adrian the first time we went over - I'd recommend them absolutely without reservation. This time, we slummed it!

M
 
Bikes, bollocks and breakfast in Bayeux

James and I just about managed to surface and shamble into Bayeux. Good job we did. Just at the end of the Rue des Bouchers is a little square. There’s a café. And the chap who owns the café is a classic bike fan - big style. So much so that he happily holds the weekly meetings of the Luc-sur-Mer Classic Bike Club at his café. And what a brilliant bunch of guys.

I love serendipity.

So, we sorted ourselves out with croissants from the boulangerie, several cups of café from the café and watched the local classic bike fraternité stand around, look at each other’s bikes and talk bollocks. Just like being at home. But with better coffee. And sunshine. And, it seemed, rather less pretence.

IMG_0635.jpg


There was some serious kit there:

That’s the back of a 1939 Guzzi:

IMG_0639.jpg


This is a Terrot:

IMG_0628.jpg


What on earth is a Terrot? I’ve no idea, but I loved it:

IMG_0630.jpg


A gorgeous R69S:

IMG_0626.jpg


And again:

IMG_0629.jpg


Suggestions on a postcard, please:

IMG_0625.jpg


A Motobecane with a cool sidestand:

IMG_0632.jpg


A rather newer Terrot:

IMG_0633.jpg


I was getting the idea by now, and very happily wandering around chatting, listening and learning about French classic bikes. It seems there’s not a lot of bolt-counting going on in France, it's about enjoying them for what they are. The drill seems to be:

- meet up for a coffee and a smoke
- talk bollocks
- ride a few miles to another café
- have lunch
- ride a few more miles
- talk more bollocks
- go home

I’ve always liked France. They know how to do things properly there.

But the best bit of all was this. You probably spotted it behind the Guzzi above (yes, Tarks, I’m talking to you!):

IMG_0637.jpg


I got chatting with the owner who turned out to be the owner of the café too. The conversation went a bit like this:

“That combo looks interesting - what is it?”

“That, my friend, is a 1968 Jupiter - Russian, and the only one left in all France!”

“Bloody hell, it’s a small world - what a great combo - love it. I’ve got a 2000 Ural.”

“Nah, you haven’t have you?”

“I’ll show you the pics....”

So I got my phone out and we happily spent the next twenty minutes comparing notes on Urals and Jupiters. It then turned out he had a GS as well, although only a 1200.

We parted on excellent terms, with the promise I’d come back on the Ural with Pip.

Then, as one, the bikes were kicked into action. Music. The banging, poffling and clattering of valves was just heavenly as they rolled out of the square and off to lunch. All that was left to mark the passing was this:

IMG_0640.jpg
 
But the best bit of all was this. You probably spotted it behind the Guzzi above (yes, Tarks, I’m talking to you!):

IMG_0637.jpg


“That combo looks interesting - what is it?”

“That, my friend, is a 1968 Jupiter - Russian, and the only one left in all France!”

Quite by chance...when you MMS text sent me that photo,I was actually sat next to a Jupiter,also as a combo,while I was on the Cossack Owners Club stand at the Uttoxeter Classic Show. :beerjug:


It seems there’s not a lot of bolt-counting going on in France, it's about enjoying them for what they are.


Yes,and I reckon the French have got it right..use the bikes and enjoy them.

Unlike the numerous boring and miserable cnuts on many of the bike stands at the Uttoxeter show...and at most other UK based 'classic' shows.

Most of 'our lot' are more concerned about what thickness Scranson Grommet was fitted to the 1928 Gobshite Moaner or too busy denouncing the 1/32" too wide pinstripe on the inside face of the toolbox of the 1952 Bogtrotter Bumwipe to even consider getting out and about on their bikes.
 
Most of 'our lot' are more concerned about what thickness Scranson Grommet was fitted to the 1928 Gobshite Moaner or too busy denouncing the 1/32" too wide pinstripe on the inside face of the toolbox of the 1952 Bogtrotter Bumwipe to even consider getting out and about on their bikes.

[tedious old twat mode]I think you'll find, young man, that the 1928 Moaner was never, in fact, fitted with a Scranson grommet. The Scranson grommet was introduced in May 1929, January the 14th at seventeen minutes past four if my memory...

BANG!

*Old twat gets twatted with a reproduction Bonnie frame cross-member.*

MMC moves to France. Ah - I wish.
 
On to Omaha

IMG_3684.jpg


I’d wanted to see the American cemetery at Omaha beach for some time. I wasn’t really ready for quite how deeply it would affect me. I’m not given to being soppy or particularly emotional, but I’d defy anyone to visit and leave dry-eyed or unaware of the huge American sacrifice in Normandy.

IMG_3689.jpg


Just the scale of the monument is moving.

9,387 headstones. 1,557 men missing in action. And a cemetery that’s nearly 173 acres in total.

I’m afraid I didn’t really feel like taking photos, but here are a few:

IMG_3688.jpg


IMG_3682.jpg


IMG_3679.jpg


IMG_3687.jpg


If you’re passing through Normandy, visit.
 
definately worth a visit - been before - going back next week for sure
 
More please :).........

Have been a couple of time and I am still fascinated. Great pics and great write up :thumb2

More please:bounce1
 
Keep it coming, been there and done that, but I am loving your report so far and considering a short trip over again.

I agree with your sentements about the American Cemetry, but I find that I feel very moved when I visit them all, even when they are buried in the local chuch yard.
 
Azeville Battery

IMG_3574.jpg


IMG_3815.jpg


I’d arrived at Azeville Battery the previous evening, but it was 7pm and the lass in charge was just closing for the night. So, the next day, after Omaha, I rode up the coast and inland to Azeville in time for opening. I’m glad I did. The site gives a superb insight into how the Atlantic Wall was used, but also how the occupying forces sometimes integrated a little into the French villages where they were posted.

Azeville is - guns aside - an almost complete battery complex. It still has its tunnels, casemates and blockhouses. It’s well worth visiting if you’re anywhere near Cherbourg.

Azeville had four H650 casemates that carried four 105mm**Schnieder K331 guns, made in 1913, each with a range of*11kms.

Originally mustering 170 men (although most were housed in the village itself) Azeville Battery is interesting in both its state of preservation and in the way it was camouflaged against Allied air reconnaissance.

A photo showing how the German troops had painted the most conspicuous bunker to make it appear like a ruined Normandy farmhouse:

IMG_3764.jpg


And the same bunker today. Most of the painting was re-done in 2006, but some of the original paint still remains.

IMG_3754.jpg


IMG_3766.jpg


IMG_3786.jpg


You can see how the complex of tunnels is laid out:

IMG_3756.jpg


By all accounts, Capt. Dr. Hugh Trieber - the complex’s Commander, seems to have been a decent man. There are stories in the village about him taking a pretty relaxed attitude to things like curfews but a distinctly hard line with his own troops if they were caught stealing from the locals or even failing in courtesy to them.

Trieber was constantly concerned about the danger he exposed the villagers of Azeville to just by the complex being there. It meant the entire village was a target for allied bombing strikes.

IMG_3807.jpg


IMG_3800.jpg


I had the place to myself. As you walk down the stairs into the tunnels linking each casemate, it’s remarkable to think that the site was the base for 170 men.

IMG_3702.jpg


IMG_3707.jpg


Although the first part of this tunnel has been restored and re-concreted, the other sections are all the original Todt Organisation work:

IMG_3705.jpg


IMG_3718.jpg


The Germans had built a large wooden mess-hall they called “The Casino”. They furnished it accordingly:

IMG_3712.jpg


IMG_3816.jpg


In fact, the locals living in Azeville were invited - on a standing basis - to make use of the Casino for village events. As you can imagine, there weren’t many takers, although one wedding breakfast was held there.

The foundations of The Casino are all that remain:

IMG_3802.jpg


This is the view of The Casino from inside the bunker - from a door designed to allow the troops to leave the building as quickly as possible and get to safety underground:

IMG_3713.jpg


You can see the two openings from the outside here:

IMG_3716.jpg


The bunker was controlled through an internal telephone system. This allowed commanders to call up shells for the guns, range the guns and hear reports from forward artillery spotters on how closely they’d fallen to target.

This is all that remains of one of those telephone exchanges:

IMG_3739.jpg


Some local vision was possible through a series of periscopes - here’s the hole for the ‘scope:

IMG_3740.jpg


And speaking tubes like this one allowed communication internally:

IMG_3741.jpg


Conditions were pretty cramped:

IMG_3744.jpg


But I suspect there were worse places to sit out the war:

IMG_3752.jpg


IMG_3818.jpg


The site had its own anti-aircraft defences - this is the base for an anti-aircraft cannon:

IMG_3755.jpg


More to come...
 
The way the bunkers operated was incredibly sophisticated. Todt had designed and accounted for almost any eventuality.

Huge extractor fans made sure the emplacements stayed oxygenated:

IMG_3798.jpg


Shells were stored directly underneath the guns:

IMG_3772.jpg


And used casings were pushed down these holes into a reservoir so they could be reused:

IMG_3773.jpg


Here’s a view from the back of the casemate, looking out through the 315 degree gunport.

IMG_3765.jpg


On June 5 and 6, 1944, the US 22nd Regimental Combat Team tried to take Azeville. Unsurprisingly, given the incredible levels of defence the complex had, they couldn’t make an impression:

IMG_3749.jpg


In a separate attack, 20km out to sea, the USS Nevada opened fire on Azeville. Remarkably, one of the ship’s 14” shells entered the most westerly bunker through the gun mouth, careened through the bunker and out the other side - all without exploding. However, it did incredible damage. All 15 men in the bunker were killed by flying concrete and steel shards as well as heat and pressure from the passing of the shell.

You can still see its route:

The shell entered through the hole in the back wall at the bottom left:

IMG_3792.jpg


Then blasted through the command room, exiting here:

IMG_3779.jpg


IMG_3789.jpg


IMG_3784.jpg


And richocheted off the bunker exit wall:

IMG_3788.jpg


Only to sink itself - without exploding - into the earth outside. It was finally discovered in 1944.

IMG_3785.jpg




The battery was finally taken by land troops - and a story of quite exceptional bravery:

From www.saak.nl:

On 9 June 1944 Colonel Tribolet, commanding 22nd Infantry, decided to blank off Crisbecq with naval gun fire and to concentrate his efforts on Azeville. He discovered that the approach to the position from the west had apparently been overlooked by the defenders who had not cleared. the undergrowth for fields of fire and sent two companies in that way.

They were able to pick their way through the wire and around the mines without being seen and opened fire on the nearest blockhouse with bazookas. Demolition teams laid three charges to blow up the blockhouse and a tank joined in, but none of the assaults caused serious damage to the concrete.

The attackers were about to run out of explosives and be forced to withdraw when Private Ralph Riley, on the orders of his company commander, took the remaining flamethrower and set off to give the blockhouse 'one more squirt'. Having run through enemy fire, he reached the blockhouse only to find that the flamethrower would not ignite.

Taking his life into his own hands, he turned on the oil jet and lit it with a match, aiming the burning stream at the door. By chance the flames reached some ammunition inside and explosions followed. Within minutes a white flag was displayed and the German commander surrendered with the entire garrison of 169 men.

Riley was awarded the Silver Star. The capture of Azeville allowed the Americans to ignore Crisbecq and to push on to Quinéville.

Again, like so many of the Normandy sites, Azeville is incredibly peaceful now.

IMG_3809.jpg


And without doing a bit of background reading, it’s hard to get a sense of all that happened here.

IMG_3814.jpg


But if you know where to look - and what you’re looking at - the landscape history becomes very plain indeed:

IMG_3813.jpg


Courseulles-sur-Mer next...
 
Courseulles sur Mer

By the time I’d finished at Azeville, I was on a bit of a mission to meet up with James again at Courseulles. He’d been blatting round the twisties in the Suisse Normande, and we’d agreed to rendezvous for a late lunch in Courseulles.
James was, of course, there first. I pulled up, de-kitted and enjoyed a well-deserved Perrier Menthe.

IMG_3822.jpg


IMG_3820.jpg


IMG_3819.jpg


It seemed there were other ways to get around in Courseulles:

IMG_3836.jpg


IMG_3821.jpg


IMG_3833.jpg


And seeing this made me realise that you don’t need a sodding great 1100 to go touring. Go on what you have - it’s the journey that matters.

IMG_3830.jpg


Courseulles was just gorgeous in the sunshine:

IMG_3837.jpg


James took more photos:

IMG_3827.jpg


And so did I:

IMG_3841.jpg


Spotted a splendid old Guzzi - another one:

IMG_3846.jpg


Always liked these.

And, this time, a memorial to the Canadian troops who came ashore between Graye-sur-Mer and St. Aubin-sur-Mer on 6 June. Another 150,000 Canadian troops over the next few months followed them, along with more than 1,000 tons of kit per day for the next six weeks.

IMG_3845.jpg


As ever, we stopped for a little bite - in a gorgeous cafe just behind the seafront:

IMG_3847.jpg


Just a smackerel:

IMG_3848.jpg


And the obligatory menthe.

James looked pretty pleased with life:

IMG_3849.jpg


And, I have to say, I was pretty pleased about it too. How could you not be? 32 degrees, brilliant sunshine, superb roads, excellent company, cracking good food - and bikes to ride. How do I get paid to do this?

IMG_3841.jpg


Only one more to come.
 
Right, ya miserable feckers. You can debate the mysteries of oil for hours and argue about photos of tits but can't be fagged to post on here.

In that case, here's the last part.

Actually, it was the last part anyway. :D
 
Heading back

Looking back at the weekend, it would be all too easy to slip into cliche - to do a cheap contrast of the peace with the war. “Wasn’t it all so wonderful and peaceful - and wasn’t it like that because of the men who went through hell to make it that way?” A bit of schmalz to add some depth to the story. But I was profoundly affected by what I read and saw.

It’s incredibly easy to be cynical. It’s the corrosive epidemic of the twenty-first century. Everything has another motive, nothing is what it seems. We’re all out for ourselves and devil take the hindmost. There’s little sense of honour - only self-interest and self-serving. And, despite a fascination with military history that’s been with me as long as I can remember, I can still see very little that’s honourable in killing another man.

And, at the risk of veering into metahistory, the sun would still have shone on Courseulles and Bayeux whether Hitler had lost or won. And, if he’d won, the chances of his retaining power and absolute dictatorship were slim - tyrants seldom last. There had already been three attempts on his life. Soon, one would succeed.

But one needs to separate the political from the military - and the military strategy from the actions of the individuals who made up the platoons, regiments and corps. The politicians get their name in the history books - but the men who do their bidding, who fight and die, seldom do.

There is not the smallest crumb of doubt that, on D-Day, there were thousands of heroes who deserved to have their place recorded in history. Some of them did. Although only their names - not their stories in all their depth and complexity.

IMG_3678.jpg


These men were heroes just for daring to run from a landing craft, wade through the sea and crawl their way, inch by terrifying inch, up a beach under a blizzard of machine gun fire.

As I walked around bunkers, up beaches and through bullet-marked town squares, I found myself mentally testing my own courage against the men I read about. And failing. I could not have done what they did.

Their heroism was in fighting for what they believed was right - and, perhaps more so - for the comrades who fought alongside them. I read story after story of men who did the impossible because they cared about the men they’d trained, traveled and marched with. And that, to me, makes them heroes. Not because of the cause they fought for, not the countries they died for - but simply for each man counting his life less than that of the man he stood beside.

Enough cod philosophy.

IMG_3685.jpg


Back on the ferry we met up with the same couple from Winchester who’d been touring on their Ducati. What a beautiful bike.

IMG_3850.jpg


And it’s always good to be on the boat first - you can get a coffee and lean on the rail watching the tinned veg come on board as you pull away:

IMG_3851.jpg


IMG_3852.jpg


Finally, after Portsmouth, the nice people at Border Control (and they were too), and a schlep up the A34, back to Bampton - and a little reminder of the weekend:

IMG_3866.jpg


Une p'tit Calva. Superb.

Looking forward to the next trip over - there’s a LOT more to see yet, and a certain café in Bayeux to visit with the Ural :D
 
That was a really good read with some cracking pics. I really must return to Normandy and visit Azeville.

Thank you :thumb2
 


Back
Top Bottom