Moan about ferry costs

Tim Cullis

Scotland lover
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I'm planning my next foray into Morocco, taking the ferry from Portsmouth to Santander in mid May, hoping to explore the Bardenas Reales 'desert' area in Spain, then heading south for Morocco.

The ferries crossing the Strait of Gibraltar must be some of the most expensive in the world. The rates charged by the companies go up and down in unison in what looks like a cartel arrangement. A one-way crossing for one person with motorbike from Algerciras to Tanger Med, from Algeciras to Ceuta or from Tarifa to Tanger City is a tad under £50.

So to save some distance in Spain and explore the north east part of Morocco again, I thought I'd check the rates from AlmerÍa. This is a much longer crossing, 190km against the 15km of the Strait of Gibraltar. The quote for the daytime sailing from AlmerÍa to Nador was £123, but if I took the nighttime sailing from AlmerÍa to Melilla the cost--including a shared cabin--is just £66. Wow!

Melilla is the same situation as Ceuta, a Spanish enclave on the North African coast, so I would then cross the border to the next-door port of Nador, From there I can head east for Oujda which is a calm university town on the Algerian border, or head west for Al-Hoceima which is an interesting coastal resort that acts as the capital of the Rif region.

I'll have about four weeks in Morocco this trip, so lots of other things planned. On the way back I plan to be leaving the bike at MotoAdvenTours bike storage in Málaga, then fly back to the UK.

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I'll be interested in how that ferry works works out. I'm planning to use it in September.
 
Johnny: I sold the 1200GSA and currently have a Tenere and a F650GS twin. I'm quite a fan of the F650GS for easy offroad tracks and I love the fact it's on tubeless tyres but it's a little low for the really rough stuff and the front wheel gets too easily diverted when starting off in loose stones. The F800GS would help in both those cases but it's then a move to tubed tyres.

The Tenere is on tubed tyres but is an awful lot less expensive than the F800GS. It was a bit of an eye opener and I quickly learnt the answer to most problems was to open the throttle. So it's the Tenere that I'm current prepping.

Walrus: I took the same ferry several years ago, it was probably early October and was during Ramadan. The ferry leaves at almost midnight but we boarded early and I was sitting on deck as the sun set and several Moroccans invited me to share their break-fast with them. I didn't have a cabin (the current fare drops to £55 if you just have a seat), so I took my sleeping mat onboard and kipped on the floor.

The entrance into Morocco from Melilla the next morning was utter chaos. This time I think I will take a look round Melilla first (it's supposed to be quite interesting) then tackle the border once the queues have disappeared.
 
Thanks Tim, how do you find it living with the Tenere?
Is ok, cruising on the 'open road'?
 
Very good, people over on xt660.com talking about all day cruising at 80mph, well that's about 73mph actual and it certainly feels very happy doing that as top gear is quite high. I tend not to ride very fast as I'm too mean with the fuel consumption.

What would be fabulous in my mind is some combination of the Tenere--the concept, rally cockpit, large fuel tank coupled with the F650GS twin engine and gearbox but with tubeless tyres.

I did wonder about getting the G650 xChallenge but the small fuel tank put me off. I toured Morocco with a mate who was on a rented xCountry (same size tank) and I had to act as a fuel bowser on a couple of occasions. I appreciate it's possible to add a second tank but I don't want to start modding a bike just to get it to where it should have started from.
 
Bardenas Reales '



dont go too near the military/missile base place.we did a few years ago and were told to go away,by a gun toting young lady.we didnt argue with her.
 
Very good, people over on xt660.com talking about all day cruising at 80mph, well that's about 73mph actual and it certainly feels very happy doing that as top gear is quite high. I tend not to ride very fast as I'm too mean with the fuel consumption.

What would be fabulous in my mind is some combination of the Tenere--the concept, rally cockpit, large fuel tank coupled with the F650GS twin engine and gearbox but with tubeless tyres.

I did wonder about getting the G650 xChallenge but the small fuel tank put me off. I toured Morocco with a mate who was on a rented xCountry (same size tank) and I had to act as a fuel bowser on a couple of occasions. I appreciate it's possible to add a second tank but I don't want to start modding a bike just to get it to where it should have started from.

On backroads I've got 150 miles from a tank, so with a couple of 1l bottles you could get to 180miles at a push

Other than that, a good bike
 
I'm planning my next foray into Morocco, taking the ferry from Portsmouth to Santander in mid May, hoping to explore the Bardenas Reales 'desert' area in Spain, then heading south for Morocco.

I thought I'd check the rates from AlmerÍa. This is a much longer crossing, 190km against the 15km of the Strait of Gibraltar. The quote for the daytime sailing from AlmerÍa to Nador was £123, but if I took the nighttime sailing from AlmerÍa to Melilla the cost--including a shared cabin--is just £66. Wow!


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Do you have a link to that ferry Tim?
Cheapest I can find is 143 euro return, seat only
https://ssl.directferries.com/ferry/secure/multi_price_detail.aspx?stdc=DF10&grid=0&rfid=365&psgr=1&curr=2&retn=True
 
Tim, did the AlmerÍa to Melilla route last year. Caught the return ferry from Melilla about 14:30.When we got to the boarder form Morocco to Spain there were rows of 30 cars abreast for about 40 yards. By luck and a bit a favourable treatment from the locals we got to the ferry with about 5 minutes to spare. I don't know if this was a one off but be warned, it very nearly cost us the ferry crossing. Enjoy.
 


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