More problems ffs

On my '08 Hexhead I have different amounts of lock left to right - more so on the right. The steering lock with the ignition works on both sides perfectly and the bike tracks true hands off the bars so haven't thought anything more about it.
 
there would only need to be a small discrepancy at the lock stops to produce a noticeable difference at the end of the yoke.
 
The old pinch bolt thing again FFS - we had a spell of pinch bolt madness a few years ago with the original 1200 - it faded away pretty quickly as people started to realise how these things work.

If i remember (recall) correctly it was a recall item. :D
 
Pinch bolts, loosen the pinch bolts on a GS and you can put the top yoke anywhere in relation to the front wheel.
 
where are they making the parts for these new bikes? it certainly can't be the fatherland.i think its a feking disgrace for what they cost.i'll stick with my gsa i think.
 
Yep I did the pinch bolt trick, aligned wheel with beak and straightened bars. Took it for a test ride this morn and the bars are way out, so start again this time wiggle bars allow it to find its own setting bars straight with wheel, test ride proved it now tracks perfect and bars straight. But the wheel does not align to the beak its over on one side.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1378377891.146441.jpg

The front end is out of align, you can clearly see more of one rad than the other, also the lock stop is welded in the wrong position thus the reason lock to lock is incorrect and why the steering lock shoot bolt don't align in the hole.

Conclusion: Dealer is getting top BMW tech down and he is strongly on my side. Tbh I could not make this crap up.
 
If i remember (recall) correctly it was a recall item. :D

Hmmmm was it a recall, can't remember?

One thing I found when I tried to torque mine up on my 2005 1200 was that it was almost impossible to get both bolts in one clamp to the same torque because as you tightened one it affected the torque of the other - so the best thing to do was just do one to 24Nm or whatever it was, then the second and leave it at that - don't go back and check the first because it will have changed slightly.
 
Yep I did the pinch bolt trick, aligned wheel with beak and straightened bars. Took it for a test ride this morn and the bars are way out, so start again this time wiggle bars allow it to find its own setting bars straight with wheel, test ride proved it now tracks perfect and bars straight. But the wheel does not align to the beak its over on one side.

View attachment 239224

The front end is out of align, you can clearly see more of one rad than the other, also the lock stop is welded in the wrong position thus the reason lock to lock is incorrect and why the steering lock shoot bolt don't align in the hole.

Conclusion: Dealer is getting top BMW tech down and he is strongly on my side. Tbh I could not make this crap up.

Looks like the beak is not straight - will take a look at mine this lunch time
 
- so the best thing to do was just do one to 24Nm or whatever it was, then the second and leave it at that - don't go back and check the first because it will have changed slightly.

Yes engineer your are correct that's how ya should torque the lower yoke bolts, just the once each bolt 24nm,

Also when you check yours will you check if the steering lock locates in the round hole in the welded plate.

Much appreciated.
D
 
Hmmmm was it a recall, can't remember?

One thing I found when I tried to torque mine up on my 2005 1200 was that it was almost impossible to get both bolts in one clamp to the same torque because as you tightened one it affected the torque of the other - so the best thing to do was just do one to 24Nm or whatever it was, then the second and leave it at that - don't go back and check the first because it will have changed slightly.

i found similar. my bolts used to loosen regularly, even with loctite.

then i stopped using a torque wrench - just did them up a bit at a time by feel, and they never came loose again.
 
Yes engineer your are correct that's how ya should torque the lower yoke bolts, just the once each bolt 24nm,

Also when you check yours will you check if the steering lock locates in the round hole in the welded plate.

Much appreciated.
D

1. I don't have significant asymmetry in the amount of left-right steering lock, just a little when doing the finger test between the forks and the frame.

2. The steering lock does NOT locate in the round hole BUT I don't think it is supposed to - I believe that the steering lock is only supposed to engage when the bars are either fully left or fully right??? - I will check the manual.
 
The manual says that steering locks either fully right or fully left, not in the central position which is where the hole is that you refer to.
 
Yep I did the pinch bolt trick, aligned wheel with beak and straightened bars. Took it for a test ride this morn and the bars are way out, so start again this time wiggle bars allow it to find its own setting bars straight with wheel, test ride proved it now tracks perfect and bars straight. But the wheel does not align to the beak its over on one side.

View attachment 239224

The front end is out of align, you can clearly see more of one rad than the other, also the lock stop is welded in the wrong position thus the reason lock to lock is incorrect and why the steering lock shoot bolt don't align in the hole.

Conclusion: Dealer is getting top BMW tech down and he is strongly on my side. Tbh I could not make this crap up.


Come on lets get real here,check the alignment of the beak with the air intakes it also looks out.

Take the pic with the bike in exactly the same position and move 1/4 inch to the left and everything will look OK.

Steve
 
looks like the beak extender isnt on centrally (more towards the offside) try taking it off then have another look
 
looks like the beak extender isnt on centrally (more towards the offside) try taking it off then have another look

Is it a coincidence that the bikes that don't look straight at the front all have the Touratech beak extension?
 
No, mines not straight as stated. The front wheel is definitely out of alignment and I don't have the beak extender.
 
I second Titto, i took the beak ext off tonight its still the same, but the front beak is slightly twisted so that could make it look worse.

However i can't see it when I'm riding, and I'm off to the alps 2mo so ill try not to let it spoil my fun. I've spoken to the dealer and sent them pics of my issues and there having the bike on my return, not sure what they can do about the difference in the lock to lock but something is not right.

I've now marked the fork pinch bolts, so ill no if one of them comes lose

This is the issue with the lock to lock.

Full lock.
7azudeby.jpg

myderu4a.jpg

Distance between frame and fork.
evy6ebas.jpg

nedatyju.jpg
 
I second Titto, i took the beak ext off tonight its still the same, but the front beak is slightly twisted so that could make it look worse.

However i can't see it when I'm riding, and I'm off to the alps 2mo so ill try not to let it spoil my fun. I've spoken to the dealer and sent them pics of my issues and there having the bike on my return, not sure what they can do about the difference in the lock to lock but something is not right.

I've now marked the fork pinch bolts, so ill no if one of them comes lose

Have a good trip hope all goes well, I am sure you will enjoy the bike in the alps! Take plenty of photos, have fun!
 
Not trying to be pedantic , but you could do with a manicure:D
 

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