Morocco: 'A piste too far' tour
- Thread starter Tim Cullis
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Great report !!! Great adventure !! 
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Morocco: Gorge link piste
Best done west to east
The two gorges are best done, IMHO by going up the Dades and down the Todra. Going up the Dades is more impressive than coming down, and coming down the Todra is more interesting than going up. Also, the piste linking the two gorges is best ridden west to east as the Dades start point is both clearer and higher in altitude (6,700') than the Todra end (5,700'). In the middle, however, the piste rises to 9,000' so it isn't something to be tackled in inclement weather (Jockser et al take note).
Jockser and Brian this January
The link piste starts some way beyond Msemrir (N31 43.052 W5 48.199) and is quite obvious, heading away into a canyon on the right.
For quite some way the route is level and clear
Meandering through the dry valley
Then gradually climbing
I came across several small groups of nomads, some camping, others inhabiting caves and overhangs along the route. They were in dreadful need, the children in rags and in bare feet amongst the sharp rocks. I still don't think it's appropriate to dish out dirhams like some Father Christmas, but I wished I had bought along some oranges or other things to bring some relief. I didn't think Marmite would have gone down a bundle.
Could be nasty in a flash flood
Through the final high-level portal
The descent from 9,000' to 5,700' was awkward with large steps in some places. And then there were a number of competing pistes to choose from.
Where next?
Then suddenly I reached a beautiful tarmac road, just south of Aït Hani. In theory I should have turned south some time back, but in fact my mistake saved time. I had read of the problems associated with finding the piste in the opposite direction from the Todra to the Dades, especially of some of the tricks the local Tamtattouchte kids played on travellers with misdirections. Now, as I descended into the Todra there was a wealth of new developments and hotels encouraged by the new road, and even clear markings on the road and on walls where the piste to the Dades cuts away from the road.
Chez Ali's big breakfast is good value
Best done west to east
The two gorges are best done, IMHO by going up the Dades and down the Todra. Going up the Dades is more impressive than coming down, and coming down the Todra is more interesting than going up. Also, the piste linking the two gorges is best ridden west to east as the Dades start point is both clearer and higher in altitude (6,700') than the Todra end (5,700'). In the middle, however, the piste rises to 9,000' so it isn't something to be tackled in inclement weather (Jockser et al take note).
Jockser and Brian this January
The link piste starts some way beyond Msemrir (N31 43.052 W5 48.199) and is quite obvious, heading away into a canyon on the right.
For quite some way the route is level and clear
Meandering through the dry valley
Then gradually climbing
I came across several small groups of nomads, some camping, others inhabiting caves and overhangs along the route. They were in dreadful need, the children in rags and in bare feet amongst the sharp rocks. I still don't think it's appropriate to dish out dirhams like some Father Christmas, but I wished I had bought along some oranges or other things to bring some relief. I didn't think Marmite would have gone down a bundle.
Could be nasty in a flash flood
Through the final high-level portal
The descent from 9,000' to 5,700' was awkward with large steps in some places. And then there were a number of competing pistes to choose from.
Where next?
Then suddenly I reached a beautiful tarmac road, just south of Aït Hani. In theory I should have turned south some time back, but in fact my mistake saved time. I had read of the problems associated with finding the piste in the opposite direction from the Todra to the Dades, especially of some of the tricks the local Tamtattouchte kids played on travellers with misdirections. Now, as I descended into the Todra there was a wealth of new developments and hotels encouraged by the new road, and even clear markings on the road and on walls where the piste to the Dades cuts away from the road.
Chez Ali's big breakfast is good value
Another good report from Maroc ride. 
It's now the official UKGSer invasion into Marocco then?
Cheers, Margus
It's now the official UKGSer invasion into Marocco then?
Cheers, Margus
Deleted Member I
Guest
Tim,
WOW! I really need to improve my riding skill ... Hopefully I get to do the "real" moroccan adventure.
BTW .. You were going to give me a physics lesson regarding getting the bike off the side stand ... Maybe at the Ace!
Amazing photos.
WOW! I really need to improve my riding skill ... Hopefully I get to do the "real" moroccan adventure.
BTW .. You were going to give me a physics lesson regarding getting the bike off the side stand ... Maybe at the Ace!
Amazing photos.
Fanum
Toubab
Novice said:
Easy...allow me Tom.
Eat more burgers, drink more beer......
Problem solved
Deleted Member I
Guest
Fanum said:Easy...allow me Tom.
Eat more burgers, drink more beer......
Problem solved
I see you are the Black Belt Master of that school!!!
Gecko
Registered user
Great report Tim.....I hope you took the pigs with you to entertain the locals 
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I counted them out and I counted them back in again, but I never found anyone with an interest.Gecko said:Great report Tim.....I hope you took the pigs with you to entertain the locals
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Very funny and I was going to post so but the thread is closed?Bert said:
Tim
Fanum
Toubab
I presume Den must have closed it himself....not something one of the mods would have done ?
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Morocco: changes
Development in the last 30 years
I was disappointed riding down into the Todra Gorge to see the number of souvenir sellers, tour buses, tourists and so forth. When I first visited the gorge it was empty; we were the only people there. This time I didn't even take a photo.
In 1974 the 'road' from Tinerhir was just a track and the silencer on our Vitesse was knocked off on the rocks. Contrast this with pics from other recent trips and there's now even a hotel in the gorge
1974: Our trusty Vitesse fords the river in the gorge.
2005: Rob, Nick and Steve in about the same place 31 years later
In 1974 there was very little in housing and Tinerhir was a small village.
1974: view into the Todra oasis
2005: view into the Todra oasis
1974: and who's this handsome fellow in Marrakech?
In those days, Marrakech was lit by hurricane lanterns, there was horse shit all over the streets, and not a glimpse of a TV aerial, let alone a satellite dish.
But technology moves us all on, and if we were stuck in 1974, most of us wouldn't have access to computers and free information exchange. One of the many thought-provoking scenes I witnessed this trip was someone walking behind a horse ploughing a field, whilst talking on a mobile phone.
Tim
Development in the last 30 years
I was disappointed riding down into the Todra Gorge to see the number of souvenir sellers, tour buses, tourists and so forth. When I first visited the gorge it was empty; we were the only people there. This time I didn't even take a photo.
In 1974 the 'road' from Tinerhir was just a track and the silencer on our Vitesse was knocked off on the rocks. Contrast this with pics from other recent trips and there's now even a hotel in the gorge
1974: Our trusty Vitesse fords the river in the gorge.
2005: Rob, Nick and Steve in about the same place 31 years later
In 1974 there was very little in housing and Tinerhir was a small village.
1974: view into the Todra oasis
2005: view into the Todra oasis
1974: and who's this handsome fellow in Marrakech?
In those days, Marrakech was lit by hurricane lanterns, there was horse shit all over the streets, and not a glimpse of a TV aerial, let alone a satellite dish.
But technology moves us all on, and if we were stuck in 1974, most of us wouldn't have access to computers and free information exchange. One of the many thought-provoking scenes I witnessed this trip was someone walking behind a horse ploughing a field, whilst talking on a mobile phone.
Tim
Wow, thats a nice contrast between pictures, the gorge shot in exactly the same location .
Things have changed.
Things have changed.
who's this handsome fellow in Marrakech?
dunno ? - he's got his back to you ........
dunno ? - he's got his back to you ........
Dahoum
Registered user
Steptoe said:Wow, thats a nice contrast between pictures, the gorge shot in exactly the same location .
Things have changed.
The size of those two bushes on the gorge wall hasn't in 30 odd years
but then I dont suppose theres much of a topsoil layer beneath them 
Dahoum said:The size of those two bushes on the gorge wall hasn't in 30 odd years
They're plastic, exact copies available for sale at the " Ye old Todra Gorge souvenir shope"
Bet you inhaled, Tim
wHAT A fantastic picture of the OLDE DAYS, good looking boy !
wHAT A fantastic picture of the OLDE DAYS, good looking boy !
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