Moscow2 It's got bigger

Ive been there, its no that far
 

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markrich said:
Hey Stef!

Did you need a visa for that village?

Marky

No its in the EU, but it took longer to go through customs than it did to ride out the other side :D
 
News just in...............

Ted has just arrived in Moscow. He travelled along the M9 - which he described as a "cart track" and has so far covered 2554 miles. He has lots of tales to tell once he can get online and will keep us posted.
He did say he was staying in Moscow for a few days so keep an eye out for postings - all the very best mate :thumb
 
All gone a little quiet!

I hope you're still out there Ted! Need to see some piccies else I'll start believing you're in a film set somewhere at Pinewood faking it all like the lunatic fake-moon landing people say ;-)

Marky
 
Ukrain Yippeeee

Still crap at pictures but going to get them on a disc tomorrow and see if that will work. Well Russia, what can you say. Its just a bad as I thought :eek: No hot water in the hotel as the local plant had shut down for 2 weeks to do maintinance work and several thousand cold smelly russians and I hit the Metro :eek. The road from the border M9 was a mass of assorted roadworks, broken surface and just crap tarmac. I woke up from the half way hotel (you wont beleve the pictures) to find torrential rain hammering down. I left the hotel at 5.30am as I had had enough of being eaten by assorted bugs. The road outside was one long water splash, every junction was flooded and it was a "is it surface water or a bloody big hole" often it was a very long deep hole, on several occasions the bow wave came over the screen and lights, how the bike kept going is just a mystery but thankfully it did. Rode for ten hours in the wet. at one fuel stop a russian petrol lady came out from her pillbox cash point and gave me some coffee, must have looked a sight. The Moscow ring road was ok as I had good directions and found hotel no2 without trouble. Got in and just threw every thing in the bath.got dry and dressed the had some coffee in the bar to warm me up. Took 2 days for everything to dry out.
Moscow itself is a huge city, not unusual for 8 to 10 lanes of traffic to be thundering along day and night. Did the Kremlin tourist thing as well as a tour of the Metro and assorted Trolly busses, micro busses and a catch a car! You need to speak russian for the last one though. You just stand at the side of the road and flag down a car, any car. You dont get many Roll Royces stopping, but plenty of the ladas and likes, just ask the driver if he is going to a particular place and if its on or near his route and just hop in, usually give the driver about 100/150 rub (about 1pound to1.50) sorted. Didnt do any riding in Moscow traffic just to fast and to much and no rules whatsoever. Headed south to a town called Orel for last night stop no problems. Countryside is pretty flat still and roads arrow streight if not very well surfaced. collected my first and only speeding "fine" as well 87k in a 50k limit(wimp) still no points and a $10 fine :thumb The road surface can change within seconds, you have to watch out for small bridges as the road up to it may be good but the surface of the bridge is just destroyed and can catch you out if just not thinking. Todays run to Kiev was great warm and sunny till about 80k from town then the hevans opened so another wet rush hour with the added fun of wet tram tracks at junctions to cope with. Well Im here for a few days at leased till I get my new credit cards. Forgot to mention that. Had my bag lifted in Mocscow om the Metro. Felt somthing but the train was packed and before I could do anything the train stropped and we all got pushed out just like London only without the manners :rolleyes:
So may have to have a bit of a re route as I am here till Wednesday on emergancy cash curtesy of Barclaycard. And I have to be in Croatia on 20th to meet up with friends. so may just go to Odesa then up and over in to the top of Bulgaria, Ill let you know. Ther have been some terrible storms in the area as well (Ukrain) on the way here I drove for several miles on roads with trees blown over and gangs of men cutting them up, some still partially blocking the roads, also any low lying ground was flooded for miles in several directions, may have been on the news but a bit out of touch. Just clocked 3167 miles today and another country, Its now France, Belgium, Holland, Germany, Poland, Lithuania (my fav),Latvia, Russia and now Ukrain.
Had a hot bath my first Pizza in two and a half weeks and of to bed all thanks to my Barclycard instant cash ( wonder if they want it back ) :rolleyes:

Will try to get some pictures on have some real crackers
By for now :beer:
 
Sorry to learn about the theft. Hope it hasn't put you off Russia. There are better places in Russia than the bug traps you have visted so far according to your mail. It is a modern country, well mostly.

I didn't mention the car thing before but it is the best way of getting around cheap. Stick out the arm, negotiate a price and off you go. In Petersburg most of the population do this all the time and it's great for getting home in the wee small hours after a drinking session in a nightclub or bar.

Ukraine eh? Hope you're collecting all the country stickers on the bike luggage :) Never been to Kyiv or elsewhere in Ukraine yet. Must sort that out. If you make it to Odessa then grab some photos of the steps leading down to the harbour but no pushing of prams down in an vague attempt to recreate the scene from Battleship Potemkin. I suspect the local milita take a vague view on that! :)

If you can, visit the cathedrals there. I hear they are beautiful!

Marky
 
Kiev

Hi Marky
It was only a one night stopover in a small hotel on route to Moscow. The Moscow place was ok. You just need to re calibrate your expectations a little. In Orel the hotel was good,clean and the beds very comfy but breakfast was a sort of liver stew! and a glas off strong sweet coffee.
Kiev seems a decent place but the trams and tracks are leathal. Lots to see somw fantastic churches and as its Sat the market seems good, main street closed to traffic and just walking and had a beer and a sit and watch the world go by. Was in the main square near the British embassy and was subject to a scam. guy said he had found a large wad of cash and was asking me if it was mine when his no2 ran up and said have you seen some money all irate and flustered, I'v lost it here some where etc then proceded to try to blame me for it! so said lets ask that police man and grabbed the guy by the arm. Got a bit upset and pulled away and I went over to the police car parked in the square, pointed at the guys as they made off. So thanks to Lonely Planet web guide for the warning on that particular one ;) May not now get to Odesa as have to stay here till at leased Thursday morning. So looking at doing Lviv and a few towns around that area before getting into Hungary, need to find a few of the Carpathian mountain roads to reprofile my tyres :cool:
Have managed to get the pictures on to this computer but cant resize them as the drop doxes are in russian :rolleyes: so have tried a couple of hits but no luck so far will try again later
 
Always time to post the pictures when you get back. Wasn't away of that particular scam. Very inventive these people. The usual one in Petersburg is for girls to ask you to buy them an ice cream. When you're out of the way, they return it to the kiosk and split the profits between seller and girl. They are always looking for non Russians to play this trick upon but I have to admit I snapped at one once in Russian that I already knew this game and they were so surprised they just stopped on the path in shock I think. You had to be there. :)

As it happens I am enjoying some Ukrainian beer right now, courtesy of my local Tesco. Yum! :beer: Always good!

Are you heading towards Moldova now or West?

Marky
 
Kiev

Well got my new cards today so last night in Kiev. Am going on to Lviv in the morning then in to Hungary at the weekend. Had a ride down towards Odessa yesterday for a run out(about 250 miles) roads a bit better but traffic still barking mad. Looking forward to Hungary and in particular the Carpathian mountains, will be nice to try and get a profile back on the tyres. Hopefully get to Budapest by next weekend and a 3 day stop over before heading down past lake Balaton and a couple of days running around it before finally heading off to Croatia and Zagreb. Bike is still going strong and all "boxers burn oil" guys mine has still got the oil at the middle of the sight glass after 3500 very hard and at times fast miles. I just cant think of a better more capable bike to do this sort of a trip on.
Met some other bikers here in Kiev and only my second GS in the 9 countries so far. He know this site and it seem he is haveing just the same problems all the other 1200 owners are, brakes, electrics etc. So dont think BM can say its an isolated problem do you!
Getting back to the trip and the bike I just dont think I would have the same faith in the new 12Adv as I have in this "old Tractor" to pull me through some of the crap weather and roads I have experianced so far, I just think its to frigile and complex. I hope someone will prove me wrong as I do like the new one, just dont trust it yet. Have developed a seriouse relationship with my GS, could need mental help on my return. If it starts to vibrate or makes a strange noise I find myself saying stuff like, Ok ok its not far you can stop wnen I find a place to pull over. Or, whats the matter now the roads not that rough. See what I mean going to need therapy, also keep pressing the "speak" button on the GPS :eek: this solo riding is a bit crazy.
The roads and countryside so far in the Ukraine have been much the same as Russia, flat straight and full of holes. So again I hope to get some bends to cut through in Hungary and take some more pictures, have about 243 on my camera and another 20/25 on my phone so big bill from Boots when I get home. Have just looked at the donation site as well :( hope you are all just waiting for me to finnish I did ten hours in wet cold rain to Moscow so got to be worth a pound just for the getting there :thumb

Will let you know about the lakes and mountains once into Hungary and make a determind effort to get a picture or two on here hope it helps to kickstart some donations. Wish me luck. :bounce1
 
Well done Ted

We're well impressed.

Keep your wits about you as the idiots don't stop until you're putting the kettle on a home - Georgie almost got wiped in Switzerland on the way home from our trip.

The kipper is being smoked at this very moment.

Simon
 
Tesco

I know what you mean Simon. Crossed into Hungary yesterday what a differance. Good roads with markings that actually mean somthing, drivers who only overtake when its safe to do so and road sighs :D I was so pleased to get back to some form of civilisation the I stopped and took a picture of the bike outside Tescos (sad). The differance is so marked between ether side of the border. I am in Budapest now and there is not one scruffy looking policeman or guard on every shop,carpark,tram etc. And have not seen a camoflage jacket or military truck or collection of out of work soldiers any where! Jumped this morning when the waitress said good morning and made eye contact, just made me smile. And ate all the fresh bread and real butter before she had even got me my first cup of coffee, yes I even got the option of extra coffee with out feeling like Oliver Twist asking for more :bounce1.
Am staying here for a couple of days now to have a look round before moving on towards Croatia and Zagreb. Going to stop somewhere along the lake, sorry cant remember the name just now.
When I left Lvov the weather was as usual very wet and cold, and the run up to the Carpathian Mountains was a bit of a trial. There is still some serious flooding in this part of the world even over here in Hungary fields are still waterlogged and rivers burst banks. Some of the roads I have ridden down would pass for river crossings back in England and I am seriously impressed with the GS. Hit a stretch of waterlogged road at about 45mph started about 2ins but soon was up over the front wheel spindle and the bow wave was hitting the screen, I expected the bike to die at any moment as it bounced around on the broken surface under the water, managed to slow and felt the bike stutter but it just kept on going and dragged me through. This was repeated time and time again throughout the last 3 weeks, hitting ruts and bouncing out of potholes, through road works that were no more than gravel tracks for miles and the only thing that has happened is the o/s/f indicator keeps coming loose. Still has the same tyre pressures! What a bike :bow how can I ever sell it.
The Carpathian mountains were a challange as I had to learn to ride round corners again, some fantastic roads and once on the west side the sun even came out, started to feel like a holiday and not a test of will. The GS always attracted lots of intrest and soon had a small crowd when ever I stopped for the night or a food break, Im sure it helped me get through some of the worst traffic and road conditions as people would slow and look or let me pass. Stopped to help a truck driver negotiate his truck and trailer under a low bridge some where in russia, once through and the traffic had started to flow again he gave me some coffee wished me well on my way. Overtook him 15 min later to be greeted with the blast from the loudest horns I have ever heard, guess it shifts the ladas and stray cattle.
Sorry still no pictures but will try to post them as soon as I can when home in another 2 weeks. Have some good shots and have ODed on tanks and monuments to heroes of the revolution, have over 200 at the last count.
Spotted a 1100 gs on the road today, black tank and panniers with pillion so if its some one on the forum Hi :thumb.
Could write for ever as ther are so many things that have happened and I have seen not just the ride which is not over yet, but the people and cultures. Just wish I had more time to look around even the 5 weeks I allowed is going to be cutting it fine and I have had to miss so much. I need to get back and check out Romania etc could add another 3 weeks without any problems just need some more cash and time :rolleyes: .
Thanks for the txt Mark (Grandtrousers) and your wishes good to hear from you. Will take me a week to clean the bike when I get home wont be allowed to ride with the boys as it looks like a mobile mud truck at the moment :(
See you all in July for a :beer:
 
Back in the EU eh? :) The wild east is a tough place. :) I remember the first time I was there, the sight of so many uniforms in the streets etc. and the crazy blue camoflauge on security and police weirded me out for a while, but like most things one gets used to it.

How is the beautiful Hungary? Never been there myself but keep meaning to do so. Hope the beer is good! Always a good incentive for me to travel :beer: :bounce1

It's funny how you mention the lack of eye to eye contact. I always thought that was a very British thing to avoid intimacy. Never found the same problem in the east. Odd how one notices different things.

Marky
 
Morning Marky
Hungary seems just great, have added it to my "must get back and have a good look" list. It was my hosts in Moscow that pointed it out to me, the eye contact thing, and once you notice it it is really quite obvious. You just dont get the same good morning and a smile from people you meet in hotels or on the street. They told me that they had spent several months in the states and when returning to Moscow kept wondering what was wrong with every body as they had got into the "good morning" habit. People would just look blankly back at them as if they were mad!
The guards, police etc and all the milatary stuff did take some getting used to, almost like the track suit culture back home. Almost every one seemed to have some form of milatary uniform, from the hotel doorman (guard) to people just off to work in the morning. And camo painted cars, trucks were every where even spotted a couple of old Ural bikes painted up. Its difficult to explain just how much of a military feel there is without actually experiancing it. Did raise a smile though at the sight of several old ladas with sirens blaring escorting some serious black mercs through the Moscow traffic, would have loved to see a high speed chase, perhaps a stolen Moscavitch with armed rapid responce ladas giving chase :D Almost wacky races.
Must say I am glad to be back in the EU. May be it was because of the budget hotels I was stopping in, that should read cheap hotel and western price :spitfire. Still have a couple of weeks to go so still chance for a disaster to strike just keeping my mind on the job.

Thanks for the donation by the way that was great.
 
I think with eye contact thing there in Russia could be a Moscow thing or perhaps one from the older generation? In Petersburg there is a definate generation difference between the 'Soviet' and the 'Russian' peoples. Those stuck in the old methods are not really as clued up to the little things we take for granted and don't even notice until they're not there, such as friendly shop assistants asking if we need any help without the rolling eyes and tutting when one askes to see something (walked out of many a shop because of that one). The younger generation who may be employed by non Russian companies are educated into those little nuances and it does show. It may seem very 'western' and sad to expect it but it gives a good feeling to show people are taking the effort to help. I have to say though that saying hello to people here in the streets of UK may often return a shy smile that covers a 'why is this weirdo talking to me?' feeling. Just how I have seen things since I returned to the UK.

Anyway, if you make it to BudaPest, I hear there are some summer
concerts happening on the Buda side of the city. Probably good to unwind with along with a cold beer :)

Marky
 
Ted - you are a proper hero mate :bow we are really looking forwrad to your return and seeing your pictures. Keep it up!!
 
Zagreb

Well nearly there. Crossed into Croatia this morning and now in Zagreb 4889 miles and 12 countries down. Going to have a took around and then move to the Adriatic coast may be Split or Dubrovnik before hitting the last leg through Slovinia and Austria etc And may be finally some pictures :bounce1
Had a ride around lake Balaton in Hungary, some fantastic roads and views, strting to get the hang of going round corners again. Also going to meetup with some guys from England so will be good to have a conversation without the aid of a phrase book and also not worry about dropping the bike or finding a hotel, planning a route etc. Bliss, may even just follow along and not look at another map
 
Assorted trial pics

Just trying to get this posting picture thing sorted. Arrived back home yesterday evening 5weeks 3 days and 6284 miles after I started. Going to give the bike a good clean tomorrow and then its due a service :)

How do I get it to just show the pictures?
 

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The leaping horse monument was on the road from Kiev to Lvov just came round a corner on a small road and there it was, bloody huge. No idea what its for just look at the people under it to get the scale. Roads around Kieve city ( not the posh touristy center) are bad but when its raining :eek:
Carpathian mountains were a dream once I got to the Hungary side and the sun came out hitcher stayed on for a while before flying off in the slipstream. Croatia was great and very hot. Road from Zagreb to the coast (off the auto route was spectacular went down almost to Split before heading north. :thumb
 

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