A dealer told me the 1150 was designed for the front A frame to crumple in a case rather than cause major damage elsewhere. I don't know if this feature went into the 1200 but it seems a sensible idea.
I can't help with measurements because mine is all bolted together, but the following points might help.
The screen frame or more likely the beak subframe is likely to be bent. The tubes are not braced for sideways forces.
You can check the wheel alignment with straight planks either side. The front should run exactly central to the back. Verticals can be checked with a spirit level.
The fork legs have an air vent plug at the top. Open the plug and the chromed tube should drop under its own weight.
My 1200 was stripped for powder coating at about 50K miles. The back due to poor paint the front due to some idiot with brake fluid. While it was all apart, I replaced the steering head bearing in the top yoke. It takes minimal force but was becoming knotchy.
Undoing the top cross bolt on the front A frame should tell if any legs are bent. It should tap out (fairly) easily. But even if its tight to move, the holes should line up when bolt is out.
Don't allow the beak frame to hang on the oil pipes. The "look" really strong and it seems to be a handy short cut to leave it attached. Don't be fooled. Even hanging it up with straps off the garage roof trusses is not a time saver. If stripping the front end/beak, take the oil cooler pipes away as well.
