Mysterious Random cutting out

Benjah

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Hi Guys

My Recently acquired R1100gs has a nasty habit of cutting out while been ridden. It might happen once a week or once a day.

The RID stays fully lit when the bike cuts out, all electrics remain on and the bike will generally start straight away with a quick push of the starter button.

I recently had the bike serviced and we tried a few things to combat this. First the HAL sensor was replaced and then the side stand switch was looped out. It all seemed to of cleared up until 1 week later (tonight) it happened again :confused:



The bike is a 1994 r1100gs with aroun 60k miles on the clock.

I would REALLY appreciate some advise on some ways to approach this as it's really messing with my motorcycling world :(
 
I've heard of this kind of thing happening due to wiring faults - check the ignition switch loom directly under the switch for cracks etc.

Also - Is the loom still cable tied tightly to the headstock at each side? - It forces a very tight bend in the cables at this point which after years of repeated bending can break the wires internally.

Wiggle the bars from side to side with the engine running and / or get your hand on the loom and manipulate it.
 
MattW said:
I've heard of this kind of thing happening due to wiring faults - check the ignition switch loom directly under the switch for cracks etc.

Also - Is the loom still cable tied tightly to the headstock at each side? - It forces a very tight bend in the cables at this point which after years of repeated bending can break the wires internally.

Wiggle the bars from side to side with the engine running and / or get your hand on the loom and manipulate it.
Click to expand...

Yep, that seems likely. It's becoming more and more common as our bikes get older. I've had exactly the symptoms you describe. The ignition loom is, sadly, bloody expensive for what it is but if your handy with a soldering iron you may be able to replace the broken wire.
 
UPDATE

Today I did two things to the bike and it cut out 4 times within 20 mins of riding.

I hosed the front of the engine (after applying de-greaser) and took out the relays to spray acf 50 on them. One of the relays looks non standard. The relay to the right of the green relay is grey and a different size. Maybe this is causing the problems?
 
That might be a cat code plug (if you have a catalytic converter) - it's not a relay it just wires some different connections together to tell the ECU how to behave, i.e. have you got a Y-piece etc. They are different colours so that you can tell which is which without comparing the pins.

Have you tried the tests of waggling the bars or the wiring loom with the bike running? If the loom has any breaks in it, caused by the tight cable tie, removing the cable tie doesn't fix the problem, it just stops it getting worse as quickly.

Could it be the ignition switch? Have you got a lot of keys on your keyring causing them to move around as the bike shakes? Try just having the ignition key and nothing else for a while.
 
Tobermory Womble said:
That might be a cat code plug (if you have a catalytic converter) - it's not a relay it just wires some different connections together to tell the ECU how to behave, i.e. have you got a Y-piece etc. They are different colours so that you can tell which is which without comparing the pins.

Have you tried the tests of waggling the bars or the wiring loom with the bike running? If the loom has any breaks in it, caused by the tight cable tie, removing the cable tie doesn't fix the problem, it just stops it getting worse as quickly.

Could it be the ignition switch? Have you got a lot of keys on your keyring causing them to move around as the bike shakes? Try just having the ignition key and nothing else for a while.
Click to expand...

Right. I can't reproduce the fault by jiggling wires.
I don't have a cat code as the bike has no cat and has a pot for adjusting CO2. The relay in question is one of the group of three relays in the back right corner of the fuse holder. Might try ordering a stock one.

I'll try switching to one key for a while and post my findings.
 
Just in case you dissappear up the wrong track...

Ignition switch/loom wire/side stand switch probs will usually kill the RID. It may be a very temporary thing but if the cutting out is this then do an instant check of the RID. I have had a couple of ingnition faults on BM's and everything cuts out electrically as well.

Boxers without cats will also still usually have a cat code plug present from new. If it is not there it is because someone has removed and a quick search of the forum will enlighten to the reasons in this.

If it is only the engine side cutting out then it could be something like a temremental fuel pump or connection.

When it cuts out are you at speed or stationary? On throttle or off throttle? Does it just die or misfire and die?

As much info of the specifics will get more feedback.
 
Had a similar Problem

And it was a loose wiring under the ignition barrel. One hour soldering under there resolved it :)

HTH,

David
 
Hi Guys

Here's some more info. When the bike cuts out the RID remains on. The bike will typicaly cut out under throttle. When it cuts out it does so as if the kill switch was hit ie. with no misfire etc.. BUT the RID remains fully functional as well as lights etc (thank goodness).

The HES was replaced with a brand new unit from motobins and professionally installed by a BMW mechanic. Have recently replaced the fuel filter.

I have heard that some bikes did not come with a CAT plug? Mine has a pot to adjust CO2 levels. I've tried adding a plug in but the bike refuses to run with a plug installed.

So does it now sound like the fuel pump system is playing up?
 
Any luck?

Saw NZ as location and haven't a clue as to the CCP fitted if any but there are several different colours anyway for different countries.

Your prob sounds more like a sudden electrical item in isolation such as fuel pump anyhow.

Would be interested to know if you've fixed it...
 
No luck yet as I'm waiting for the weekend to try all this. It's dark by 5:30 pm over here as we're in the grips of winter and I'm an outdoors type mechanic (no garage..)

The bike is a UK import if that means anything?

I'm going to try checking the plugs around the fuel pump and might pull the ignition harness to check that as well.

I'll keep you posted.
 
uk market bikes with CO pot have a beige CCP, I will post a picture showing which two contacts you need to jump. my bike ran rich without the CCP.
Benjah, my bro is over from NZ for a few weeks, he lives near Auckland somewhere, if you need anything bringing to NZ we might be able to arrange it :thumb2

Stewart
 
Also their is a loooong run through the colours or CCP's on IBMWR website "oilhead" section.

When I 1st had a 11GS I was instructing and it sometimes coughed exiting junctions which could be a bit of a pain. This was before extensive info like this forum about ways around these probs. I pulled the CCP and it made the bike smoother by running richer sescially low down. The tickover revs "hung" a little on the way back down. I went back to using the CCP after a short while.

I later heard that some folk (dealers too) pulled the CCP and then adjusted the CO pot to compensate. This would probably ring true as to why it runs like shite when you put a CCP back in.

Good luck this weekend... Up in Shetland its summer but still a bit damp for working outside:augie Lots of light though:D

Check the fuel pump connector 1st as it's a quick test.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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