Narrower Handlebars on R1200GS

[POG]

Dear Mouse,

I wonder if it would be possible for you to re-post your thread about handlebar removal as the pictures dont seem to work anymore and this would be really handy for what I have in mind. Many thanks and I'm sure that your thread has been a great help to many.

Cheers,

POG

 

[Tommo]

Dear Mouse,

I wonder if it would be possible for you to re-post your thread about handlebar removal as the pictures dont seem to work anymore and this would be really handy for what I have in mind. Many thanks and I'm sure that your thread has been a great help to many.

Cheers,

POG

I second that

 

[Woooodentop]

Which area were you getting pain?

 

[tonyair111]

I just want to fit standard 22mm/7/8ths crossed braced Renthal bars to my GS but cannot find suitable conversion blocks. I to want narrower but lower handlebars. the fatboy originals are too high and the angle causes strain on my wrist and arms. The Renthal ones are much straighter. Anybody got any idea's?

 

[NZRalphy]

Wow old thread!
You'll have to get some curved spacers made to adapt the smaller bars. I did it once and wasn't impressed with the clamp pressure and worried the bars could slip so I fitted fat bars.

 

[sproggy]

Why go to the trouble of trying to fit 22m bars when you can get some lower/flatter/narrower (whatever combination) 28mm bars that'll bolt straight on? Renthal, Rizoma, Fatbars - there are loads of companies offering various bends of 28mm bars and you'll no doubt find that easier than trying to make incorrect diameter bars fit.

 

[Bendy toy]

Here's what I did. I've used low rise Renthal Fatbars (McGrath bend) with Rox anti vibration risers but normal rise Renthals do the job with standard bar clamps. You get less sweep angle so the bars don't feel so wide and you won't be sat bolt upright with every road bump pile driving your spine. You'll also have your head nearer the screen so less motor way turbulence. So many wins .

This shows my bike with risers so it looks complicated. At the end shows similar height bars straight onto the headstock by @Greenman14. You could use higher rise Renthal bars if you want to sit more upright.

The LHS headed grip is screwed to the handlebar. All very well if you never want to adjust the switches so use gaffa tape, Blutak, whatever you like until you find the sweet spot.

 

[Greenman14]

My Renthals are 827. They are narrower than standard, but about the same height. The main difference is much reduced backwards sweep. I used to have the standard bars mounted forwards but with these I have the clamps in the normal, rearwards, position and rotated about as far back as possible. There is still plenty of clearance to the tank but I did have to trim the screen, which is similar to, but not exactly the same size, as a standard screen.

The bar end weights are fixed by fitting threaded inserts into the bars, though I did have to buy new bolts as the inserts were a different thread pitch to BMW's standard. The clamps for the hand guards are about as far inboard as it's possible to fit them as the bar diameter increases towards the clamp area. It was a bit of a fiddly job but well worth while.

 

[Bendy toy]

This is the link I had intended to post.

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/407331-Alternative-handlebars

As said I used low rise bars to avoid the grips going too high with the anti vibe risers. Higher rise Renthals would be fine for anyone not wanting having vibration issues.

Rox sell a split sleeve that will allow 22m bars to fit a 28mm clamp. I don't know what it's called so maybe a call to Rox will get a set.

 

[patzx12]

I have moved the controls in 25mm each side on both my GSA's much more comfortable.
All I had to do was drill 2 more 4mm holes in the bars 25mm in. I also turned fancy alloy bar ends.
I also find them a bit straight and wouldn't mind if they were turned in a bit more.

 

[Bendy toy]

I used M10 sleeve anchors with aluminium sleeves. M12 better but couldn't find any slimline type.
The throttle side switch block has a clamp. The clutch side looks like it could be clamped but instead it's screwed to the grip that's screwed to the handlebar.
BMW heritage lives on.

Sent via iPhone so expect strange words

 

[APE]

Hi guys I would like to reduce the width of my standard bars a couple of inches. Happy with the sweep / height etc and dont want to go down the aftermarket route.

Can anyone recommend a specialist who could do this for me in the south east (I am Surrey based) before I approach my BMW dealer ?

Many thanks

 

[Greenman14]

You could do this yourself, just saw the amount off each end, if you cut off 2" I'm sure you will take off the threaded insert and will need to fit a new one, eBay is your friend. Then you'll need to drill a small hole to locate the LH switchgear. It's not a difficult job.

Threaded inserts like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Pcs-12m...669117?hash=item463f3cf0bd:g:cUAAAOSwX~dWrJ4v

I had to drill out the bore of my Renthals to 15mm, not sure of the bore of the standard bars.

If you decide not to DIY then you don't need a "specialist" any competent workshop could do the job.

 

[APE]

Thanks for the info ! I'll take a look at the weekend

 

[Bendy toy]

I looked at threading my handlebars but M14 taps are seriously not low cost so that idea got shelved.