Neutral switch

Redboots

Member well-known
UKGSer Subscriber
Joined
May 16, 2006
Messages
13,110
Reaction score
13,879
Location
Deep in the Vosges du Nord
Can you remove said switch without removing the box?

Or is it a case of filter/housing off / clutch cable, push rod disconnect, mounting bolts out and then "fiddle" till you get it out?

Bloody seal leaks....:mad:

John
 
Tap or whack (depending wether you've greased) the rear engine mount, out. Then remove the spacer bar at the back of gearbox. It will be hard to get it to come out:augie, but out it will come. Then you're okay for the switch. Dont over tighten when putting the switch back in, thread's are easy to strip.

You're going to have alot of fun if that rear engine mount aint been greased. Dont whack it, use the nut & washer method to pull it out..........LOL.

Good luck.
 
Tap or whack (depending wether you've greased) the rear engine mount, out. Then remove the spacer bar at the back of gearbox. It will be hard to get it to come out:augie, but out it will come. Then you're okay for the switch. Dont over tighten when putting the switch back in, thread's are easy to strip.

You're going to have alot of fun if that rear engine mount aint been greased. Dont whack it, use the nut & washer method to pull it out..........LOL.

Good luck.

Agreed, learnt this trick from St Eptoe....:bow
 
Or instead of fightin with the fecker drop out the 4 bolts for the box and the one for the airbox (light flywheel one I presume) and undo the 2 swingarm bolts and clutch arm pivot pin and lift it back 2 inches

Do job and stick it back in,

While yer there you can grease the splines and pivot bearings and check the clutch pivot bearing etc etc etc instead on trying to whack that pita bush out

Remember to drain the oil before ya start and reconnect the neutral sitch before you try to refit the box it makes it all so much easier

How Do I know? Whilst stickin one back in one recently that had come back from rebuild one found the neutral switch in a wee seperate packet with bolts for other bits, On looking up the lower regions of the box we found a little orifice that said switch should have been residing in! Who'd have thought when every other bung and seal was in place? So I reckoned it was easier to slip the box backwithout undoing the shaft and flexi seals that try knockin the doo dah out of the bush
 
The last 2 I tried that way I wasted more time trying to batter that spacer out and get it back in place again (yep there was a bit of corosison :( )

You're not undoing the clutch or drive shaft or any expensive things maybe what 5 fixings at the box plus 2 pivot pins which shouldn't be that tight lower shock mount clutch arm and gearlever pivot and brake cable less than taking the fairing of an 1100RT!

An Hour ish to do it? and whats quite nice is that you can sort anything else that needs a fettle or wee lube while you're there?

Not Looking an argument It's just my thoughts on doing it how I see it was easier than trying to work upside down
 
Ta!. Will try Shafted's method first.
Only just rebuilt this after the winter stripdown... did not think to replace the sealing washer:blast Switch works OK:(

John
 


Back
Top Bottom