New bike lots of questions

Yarrow R1150gs

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Hi there

Just brought myself a 2008 bmw r1200 GSA
So after owning the 2002 1150 gs for last two years the new bike is a big big differance in many ways

Got a few questions

The ESA what's the best for solo riding
And also two up with and with out the kitchen sink

On the 1150 I had a solar trickle charger connected through the 12v take off can I do this with the 1200?

Can you get a shorter gear lever as have missed a gear a few times

Also looking to add a 12v power outlet near the clocks and one in the top box for phone or a USB port for charging. Any one got advice on this

Thanks a bunch

Rob
 
You can use a CAN-bus compatible charger like an Optimate 4 via the 12v socket under the seat, alternatively connect a charger lead directly across the battery and use a regular trickle charger.

On my 2007 GS there's a spare 12v outlet just below the ignition, I bought the BMW plug and connected the other end to a waterproof Hella/DIN socket.

I guess you'll get used to the gear change?!
 
Hi thanks for you reply

The reason for the trickle sola charger is there is no mains electric where the bike is kept
As long as I connect straight to the battery terminals then should be ok with the CTEK charger I have if it goes flat

Gear shift ill get used to your right
 
Welcome to the forum.

Regarding the ESA it is all explained in the manual. Fat tossers can keep it on 2-up, regular size people ride it on the solo setting. Not so long ago there was a thread that explained the ESA workings. Free owners manual can be downloaded here.

There is a BMW part for the extra DIN socket to be installed at the winglet. On ADVrider there are a few threads about innovative ways the merkins have added charging sockets in all manner of ways wherever way you can think of. Get a PDM60 programmable power distribution box thingy made by Rowe and sold by Nippy Normans. Expensive yes but worth it if you fancy adding all sorts of electric farkels without the wire mess. USB, DIN and coax connections can then be routed to the box.

The bike is narrow at the footpegs. Move the feet in a bit and feel for the gear lever. You shouldn't have problems shifting it. As a former world champ explained to me ride with the arch of your feet on the footpegs. Only move the feet to the toes on the footpegs for the corner left or right. If this is not what you meant then ignore.
 
Part number for the fairing mounted aux socket kit is:- 71 60 7 699 889
I bought one last week from a dealer and am having it fitted this Saturday. It cost just about €70 but it's a complete kit with a loom that piggy backs onto the underseat socket.
 
Hi there

Just brought myself a 2008 bmw r1200 GSA
So after owning the 2002 1150 gs for last two years the new bike is a big big differance in many ways

Got a few questions

The ESA what's the best for solo riding
And also two up with and with out the kitchen sink

On the 1150 I had a solar trickle charger connected through the 12v take off can I do this with the 1200?

Can you get a shorter gear lever as have missed a gear a few times

Also looking to add a 12v power outlet near the clocks and one in the top box for phone or a USB port for charging. Any one got advice on this

Thanks a bunch

Rob

You can get a gear lever extender just pushes on the end of the foot piece Iv'e used mine since buying the 1200, I was sent two form NN so have one going spare brand new £12.00 plus postage. PM me if interested.
 
Hi thanks for the offer I'm heading out on the bike today so I'll see how I get on.

Looking to put some hi viz reflective stickers on the bike . I know that the red is to be used only on the rear but is white ok for the sides?

Any one got pictures of there bikes as a idea

Thanks

Rob
 
Ref the ESA, Yarrow, & this isn't sarcasm - try it out & go for what feels best for you. IMO the changes aren't huge, but will make subtle differences, so give it a go.:thumb
 
Yes that's what I was planning on doing funny thing is I've never been good at being told what to do.
But wife tells me I need to Be more open and understanding with people options

So thanks very much for your advice I'll take it on board

Rob :beer:
 
maybe needs some searching but not sure a trickle charger will work through any can bus connected aux socket, read somewhere they are not man enough to open the connection, easy fix is a lead direct onto the battery or via a power block as mentioned higher up
 
After having my frame powder coated, I refitted the gear lever one spline too high. It improved my gear shifts. I've just put the lever back correct and my gear shifts are shite again. So it's going back ASAP.
I believe my many years of riding light flywheel Japanese bikes as made me whack the lever too soon. The longer boot/lever gap slowed me down with smoother shifts as a result.
I don't bother with stickers the bike is big enough & loud enough without aping an HGV rear light board.
 
Was out yesterday for a evening ride and there is a is a pretty rough section of Tarmac road. Which was ideal to test out the ESA on the bike. Found the sports mode was trying to remove my fillings and shorten my spine!! Normal mode was better but then selected COMFORT what a amazing difference. Shall continue with this on other roads

Found making my bikes a bit different from the rest stands them out at meetings and rally's so easy to find
 
I ride almost exclusively on comfort mode and have tyre chicken strips narrower than narrow things. It's clear the back end is overly soft, but the bike does not do the soggy back end roll and weave the "normal" bikes do (one of the Telelever benefits I guess). I find the better wheel/road contact of "comfort" more than makes up for the fore-aft rocking.
 
Can any one advice me on which type of lock tight to use on my bmw 1200gsa

Ive brought a crud catcher for the front of the engine comes with 4x stainless steel bolts of eBay for £25 plus postage
And also and going to be replacing the gear lever daft size bold with a stainless steel 10mm replacement

I see there is the red and blue from lock tight

Thanks a lot

Rob
 
Yeah, I have the same gear change problem on my new to me 1200 GSA - its getting better with time.

Welcome and good luck!:beerjug:
 
Can any one advice me on which type of lock tight to use on my bmw 1200gsa

Ive brought a crud catcher for the front of the engine comes with 4x stainless steel bolts of eBay for £25 plus postage
And also and going to be replacing the gear lever daft size bold with a stainless steel 10mm replacement

I see there is the red and blue from lock tight

Thanks a lot

Rob

I never bothered with loctite for this. Did bolts up to torque spec. When came to strip bike 3 yrs later having been spanked off road bolts were still tight. Never bothered with loctite on front discs or brake callipers either; again still tight as a tight thing. Loctite is for girls.
 
Hi
Regards the gear lever that I was finding I bit of a pain as when changing up the rubber section was at the end of mt boot.
(I'm a size 9) and I'd miss it and then have to look down or fumble for it.

I was adjusting the gear leveri angle on the splined shaft to raise it and noticed a adjustment on the rubber end which allows the end to be rotated back towards the foot peg. Its now in the right spot on the upper part of my boot

And now problem solved !! So have a look this could help your problem out
I can't be the only person to have found this helpfull adjustment

I'm als going to attach a ice hockey puck to the side stand to give it a larger foot print and bring up the scary looking angle when it on the stand. Plus hope it will make it easier to pull the bike up. I'll post a picture when I get it on there


All the best
Loving the bike :beerjug:
 
The front cover is a magnet for corrosion from under the screw heads. Thread lock won't help but a good covering of copper grease or better a marine quality paste is the solution.
I have copper grease and copper washers under my cover screw heads. Also the fine flange on the belt cover is planed off and the cover sits on penny washers with copper grease.
The belt cover cannot now rub the timing cover paint and there are no signs of white powder around the bolts or rust from the steel inserts inside the plastic cover.
I might make a small crud catcher to protect the cover centreline but the exhaust cross pipe does a good job.
 


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