New brake lines / clutch lines 2002 GS1150

[Captain Black]

So my goodridge front and rear ( none ABS ) have arrived, I'll be fitting them when I've had the old girl MOT'd this month in time for the TT.
Got to thinking of changing top and bottom clutch lines as well, is it a PIA sort of job with regards to getting at the fittings etc ?

 

[Ian J Hartley]

By top and bottom clutch hoses, I take it you refer to the hose that runs from the reservoir to the slave as the top, and the one that runs from the slave to the bleed point as the bottom.

I did my top hose when I replaced my slave cyclinder, so it was easy enough to do at the time. I would bulk at just replacing the hose because it's awkward to get access.

As far as I am aware, there are no stainless steel replacement available for the line that runs for the slave cyclinder to the bleed point.

I hope someone comes along in a minute to correct me and tell me they are available, because that is the only hose left on my bike which is original.

Ian

 

[Steptoe]

As far as I am aware, there are no stainless steel replacement available for the line that runs for the slave cyclinder to the bleed point.

I hope someone comes along in a minute to correct me and tell me they are available, because that is the only hose left on my bike which is original.

Ian

BMW sell a stainless clutch hose. They came fitted as standard to the 1150ADV and i think also to the rockster.

Goodrich also do a stainless clutch hose, £85.50 from motorworks... Expensive because the the banjo fittings aren't standard like brake banjo joints.

 

[Captain Black]

BMW sell a stainless clutch hose. They came fitted as standard to the 1150ADV and i think also to the rockster.

Goodrich also do a stainless clutch hose, £85.50 from motorworks... Expensive because the the banjo fittings aren't standard like brake banjo joints.

I think motorworks do a goodridge one as well Neil.

How did that happen ??

 

[Steptoe]

I think motorworks do a goodridge one as well Neil.

How did that happen ??

I think i was editing my post as you posted

 

[Captain Black]

By top and bottom clutch hoses, I take it you refer to the hose that runs from the reservoir to the slave as the top, and the one that runs from the slave to the bleed point as the bottom.

I did my top hose when I replaced my slave cyclinder, so it was easy enough to do at the time. I would bulk at just replacing the hose because it's awkward to get access.

As far as I am aware, there are no stainless steel replacement available for the line that runs for the slave cyclinder to the bleed point.

I hope someone comes along in a minute to correct me and tell me they are available, because that is the only hose left on my bike which is original.

Ian

Yep that's what I mean ref top and bottom. Just wanted to change all the originals as the bike ( had from new ) is 14 years old. It's been sat for three years with the odd fire up so the throttle bodies don't gunk up. I want to give it a good going over before the TT in June, but wondered if I had to strip the thing just to change the clutch hoses ?

 

[Captain Black]

I think i was editing my post as you posted

Thought I'd lost the bloody plot then !

 

[KMD]

I picked my brothers 2000 1150 up from Hampshire last week in the van. It has been stood in a garage for four years while he's been working overseas. Oil and filter change, squirt of oil down the pots and some clean fuel and a new battery and she fired up second press of the button. Just good German engineering.

 

[moonhead911]

https://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts.php?model=R850%20R1100%20R1150&bikeref=R1150GS

£42 stainless from motobins

 

[Ian J Hartley]

James Sherlock sell the clutch top hose in stainless steel for £26.40.

It's not a Goodridge item like the Motoworks one.

Ian

 

[moonhead911]

James Sherlock sell the clutch top hose in stainless steel for £26.40.

It's not a Goodridge item like the Motoworks one.

Ian

well spotted ill treat my self to that price

 

[Captain Black]

Anyone know of the complexities of changing the clutch lines ?

Can you get access to the banjo bolts without stripping the back of the bike down as per changing the shave cylinder ?

 

[(RIP) trickytree]

I'll be able to tell you after next weekends Malvern do as its one of the jobs I want to do to my Rockster....although shock change and any other work nessesary is on the cards as well.

 

[fatnfast]

I put an ADV stainless clutch hose on a couple of years back and removed the end can, rear wheel and rear shock to get access to the clutch slave cylinder.
You might be able to wiggle a long reach allen to slacken the banjo bolts, but I doubt you would be able to refit them.

It's also worth using copper washers instead of the aluminum type whilst your doing it as they tend to 'rot' over time.

 

[Steptoe]

Anyone know of the complexities of changing the clutch lines ?

Can you get access to the banjo bolts without stripping the back of the bike down as per changing the shave cylinder ?

Pretty easy. Remove rear wheel, rear shock. Undo the clutch line at the handlebar reservoir and cut the cable ties that hold the clutch line to the frame.
Undo the three bolts that hold the slave cylinder in place, wriggle and contort the slave to extract it through the gap between the subframe and gearbox bar (it will go through, quiet easy once you';ve done a few and got the knack.
Undo the two small banjo bolts that hold the lines to the slave.
Attach the rear banjo of the new hose to reservoir banjo of the old hose (cable tie through the two ends) and pull the old hose through from the slave end until the new hose is in place, cut the cable tie joining them.
Attach slave cylinder and bleed hose to the slave, wriggle it back in place and screw the three screws back in place attaching it to the gearbox. Then bleed the system

I actually bleed the unit before fitting the slave back in place, there is enough slack in the hose if you undo the top left 14mm fork nut push down the stanchion and let the hose sit "this side" of the fork stanchion so you have loads of slack, bleed the unit, refit the slave, put the hose back the other side of the stanchion and do up the 14mm nut . tickety boo all done.
Less than an hour if you've done it before.

 

[Captain Black]

Pretty easy. Remove rear wheel, rear shock. Undo the clutch line at the handlebar reservoir and cut the cable ties that hold the clutch line to the frame.
Undo the three bolts that hold the slave cylinder in place, wriggle and contort the slave to extract it through the gap between the subframe and gearbox bar (it will go through, quiet easy once you';ve done a few and got the knack.
Undo the two small banjo bolts that hold the lines to the slave.
Attach the rear banjo of the new hose to reservoir banjo of the old hose (cable tie through the two ends) and pull the old hose through from the slave end until the new hose is in place, cut the cable tie joining them.
Attach slave cylinder and bleed hose to the slave, wriggle it back in place and screw the three screws back in place attaching it to the gearbox. Then bleed the system

I actually bleed the unit before fitting the slave back in place, there is enough slack in the hose if you undo the top left 14mm fork nut push down the stanchion and let the hose sit "this side" of the fork stanchion so you have loads of slack, bleed the unit, refit the slave, put the hose back the other side of the stanchion and do up the 14mm nut . tickety boo all done.
Less than an hour if you've done it before.

ok I get all that in principal , but sounds like a job that can be a fecking pain. I might just bleed the clutch / change the fluid.

I'll do my brake lines when I've MOT'd the old girl early April , I'm hsure that will be a roaring success and will encourage me to move onto greater things, ie the clutch lines. Suppose I could drop a nice new rear shock in while I'm at it. Bikes only done 22k but all that was around Europe fully loaded.

Thanks for the guidance ... I'm on it.

If I don't do it ill pop into yours en route to Europe later in the summer and you can fit it for me ?

Cheers

 

[(RIP) trickytree]

I'll be able to tell you after next weekends Malvern do as its one of the jobs I want to do to my Rockster....although shock change and any other work nessesary is on the cards as well.

.......Less than an hour if you've done it before.

And about a week and a half if you havnt

Good job I'd decided to swap out the clutch line.....the original is so badly corroded on the banjo fitting it's weeping fluid.

And the Rockster does indeed have a stainless bleed line

 

[Steptoe]

Good job I'd decided to swap out the clutch line.....the original is so badly corroded on the banjo fitting it's weeping fluid.

The leaking maybe coming from the small ali washer either side of the banjo bolt. It corrodes and fluid leaks.