New Hyperpro Shock

[Robster]

Well, I've taken the plunge and bought shiny new Hyperpro shock for my X Challenge. Couldn't quite stretch to the all singing one with the remote preload sadly, but maybe a visit to our Dutch friends at some point in the future may fix that!


Soooo, apparently "the eagle has landed" at home this afternoon, according to my less than impressed wife!


It appears from what I've seen online etc to be quite a straightforward procedure to swap out the old airbag (I'm no longer talking about my wife!) and slot in the spring - any tips from those that have done it?
Also, what's the preferred position for the remote adjuster – I was planning on the right side of the subframe where our friends in the US would have the Charcoal cannister. Any other suggestions?

Are there any "standard" settings anywhere that might be a good balance for a portly gent of 100kg who rides 80/20 off/on road?

 

[GFJ]

I've taken the airshock off a few times. Remove rear wheel, mud protector plastic thing, then work on the bottom bolt.

This could be a little awkward if it has seized in. You'll need a long Allen key for the offside, then spanner for the nut on the other end. Getting the bolt to withdraw may take some jiggling.

Top bolt easy.

Never fitted a hyperpro so can't guide further.

Post some pics

 

[ian640]

FYI After hearing about the seizures I've taken to occasionally squirting some WD40 in the hole in the swinging arm used to access the head of the lower bolt. When the bike's on its side stand it should work its way downhill. Never had a problem removing the lower bolt and I've also put a very thin layer of grease on it.

From memory I think if you have the remote adjuster it shows where it fits in the instructions you get with the shock.

 

[Robster]

Nice one chaps, I'll try and take some snaps as I go – in between the inevitable swearing and bleeding that generally accompanies most of the jobs I try and tackle on my bikes!
I've liberally squirted some WD40 into the lower bolt hole this morning so can leave it there to work its magic for a day or two as I'll not get around to doing the swap until the weekend.

Got as far as unpacking the new shock – comes in a nice plastic box! Oooooh, posh!

 

[Robster]

Hmmmm well... as with so many of the jobs I attempt on my bikes I seem to have fallen at the first hurdle!

First chance to get near the bike this evening so off came the rear wheel, off came the little plastic protector thingy - the lower bolt however isn't moving at all!

I've been liberally dousing it in WD40 for the last few days hoping it would be ok when I got around to the job, but evidently not. The upper bolt seems to move ok and the nut on the lower bolt is moving also - just that damned inaccessible Lowe bolt!

Any tips to free the bugger off? Safe to maybe use a heat gun without wrecking the paint on the swing arm? Help, I really need this shock on asap!

 

[mull]

I've just had same problem when removing broken damper.
At the nut end I had to put a couple of washers between the nut and swingarm,as you loosen nut it pushes bolt free,only by a few mil.wind nut back on a little to remove washers then use hammer on Allen key to knock back in and repeat if needed using wd40 all the time,and trying to turn bolt with Allen key before you knock back in.
Keep at it as it could take time if it's badly seized.

Mick

 

[mull]

P.s you could wreck threads on bolt but it's a small price to pay.

Mick

 

[mhsnowy]

It was a while ago but I seem to remember holding the nut and turning the Allen bolt to undo. Used a long bar and it came off ok without damaging any threads.
It was tight hence the long socket bar for leverage.

 

[Robster]

I've just had same problem when removing broken damper.
At the nut end I had to put a couple of washers between the nut and swingarm,as you loosen nut it pushes bolt free,only by a few mil.wind nut back on a little to remove washers then use hammer on Allen key to knock back in and repeat if needed using wd40 all the time,and trying to turn bolt with Allen key before you knock back in.

It was a while ago but I seem to remember holding the nut and turning the Allen bolt to undo. Used a long bar and it came off ok without damaging any threads.
It was tight hence the long socket bar for leverage.

Good tips again, thanks guys. Mick I was thinking exactly the same re using the nut, which is relatively free, to wind the bolt out, so good to know that's worked for you.

My other problem is my hex bit is 70mm and I really need a 100mm one so I can attach to my big breaker bar which should smooth the process a little too.

Didn't start the job until after 9pm last night and a couple of mice running across the garage floor while I was working out how to proceed stopped play while I ushered them out!

Will order a longer hex bit now and have another crack at it later with the nut method and see how I go.

 

[GFJ]

That should work to get the movement going. Keep lots of penetrating fluid going through.

Once the nut has done its bit, you'll need to remove it and use some form of drift to keep pushing the bolt back out through the lower mounting. I used the short end of an old Allen key to push it out.

When you do eventually succeed, remember to put loads of grease (I used lithium) to prevent future occurrences.

Swing arm bearing ... Now there can be a problem. I'd honestly suggest you don't unless you have to!

Good luck!

 

[Robbo1961]

It was a while ago but I seem to remember holding the nut and turning the Allen bolt to undo. Used a long bar and it came off ok without damaging any threads.
It was tight hence the long socket bar for leverage.

+1 with that method I done exactly the same , you can fix the preload to the underside of your subframe.

 

[Robster]

Hmmm well, I'm afraid to say that all attempts so far have failed and, I'm even more afraid to say, the hex socket in the lower bolt all the way in there in the swingarm is beginning to round off without even the slightest bit of movement gained.

It's been sitting in penetrating oil for the best part of a week, I've tried heat, shock (ie whacking with a hammer!) and the methods above of trying to wind it out from the opposite end. I genuinely don't think it's moved a single millimetre.

So...options?! Obviously I'm going to need a new lower bolt, so I'll order one of those in. Do you think it's possible to drill it out? Strikes me personally as something that's now likely to be a real headache! Urrgghh

 

[mull]

Put masking tape or similar on Allen key where it enters swingarm and put mark in line with entry point,wind out nut and see if it does push out.you will have to force nut using leverage or hammer on spanner and like I said it will only move a few millimeters, knock it back in and repeat a few times.
P.s. mine was a twat!

 

[Robster]

Good idea re the mark on masking tape - however I'm fairly certain it's not shifting at all. I've wound the nut out with washers etc as above to the point where there's a loud crack as the bolt jumps around the thread. I'm loathe to keep doing it as, if I do get it moving, I'll eventually have a problem at the nut end of the bolt too!

I'll have another look tomorrow

 

[Losttheplot]

Used swingarm on ebay for 35 quid with shock already removed. And don't ignore the bearings they seize then undo the bolt behind the clutch cover- you know, the useful one that holds the swingarm on.....

 

[GFJ]

Used swingarm on ebay for 35 quid with shock already removed. And don't ignore the bearings they seize then undo the bolt behind the clutch cover- you know, the useful one that holds the swingarm on.....

You beat me to it. I was out on a ride yesterday and thinking what would I do in Robster's position if it was looking like it might all go to rats. I'd buy that swingarm on ebay as a contingency, and if worst came to the worst, you could always cut the existing one off (which could also be an easy way of sorting the swingarm bearings if they were in the same state)

Link to ebay swingarm below.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321703323901?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[Robster]

Cheers again guys, this is proving to be an expensive excercise... nothing is ever straightforward on these bikes eh?!

Sooooo, I have a new lower bolt and nut on the way, along with a set of swingarm bearings and seals. I'm keeping my eye on that swingarm for sure – that looks very much like my Plan B at the moment! Thanks for pointing me in that direction, it makes all kinds of sense.

Still a week to run on the auction though, so in the meantime I'm continuing to squirt penetrating/releasing fluid into the hole for what it's worth, and I think I'm going to call my local (non BMW) workshop and see if they'll take a quick look or if they have any other bright ideas. They're generally very helpful though, to be fair, I don't hold out too much hope as we've pretty much covered all the options here already between us.

Possibly worth an hour of their time though just to make sure. You never know, they may have a much bigger hammer than me!

 

[mikecbrxx]

A couple of extreme options, known to have worked, are;

1. get the bolt/swingarm really hot to the point things may start to melt.
2. Cut through the bolt either side of the bottom eye mount. This allows you to really attack the remaining bolt portions directly with a hammer and drift or some sort of press.

Your own risk of course Good luck.

 

[Robster]

Well, thanks for all the advice guys – it's finally sorted!

In the end I went with the suggestion of replacing the swingarm with a second hand one. I've now got a spare used swingarm with original airshock (permanantly) attached!

Now... just need to find some time to get out and test the new shock

 

[mull]

Hi robster,like you I have fitted a new hyperpro shock( with all the unwanted headaches that went with it!), my question is this....does your new shock make squelching noises when you bounce up and down on bike???,I just have the lower spec shock without reservoir.