Glad to hear it - it sings, doesn't it? I wish many other other boxer riders would realise how to get the best out of their tractors
New to GS1200
- Thread starter Ram
- Start date
Glad to hear it - it sings, doesn't it? I wish many other other boxer riders would realise how to get the best out of their tractors
Bendy toy
Registered user
I'm in Newton Abbot so not much help.
It's a big twin so don't expect sports bike revs or usable rev range. Above 7000 revs it's about to hit the rev limiter. Below 2000 revs it will chunter chatter and generally hammer it's big ends (big twins do that) so slogging at 1500 revs is a very bad idea.
Mine rattles around tick over in neutral but pull the clutch lever and the rattle stops. Some say it's gearbox end float. Mine has done it now for many thousands with no untoward signs.
The biggest difference (apart from weight) from a "normal" bike is the way it handles. No squirm over bumps (it just rocks) and sharp handling with considerable stability.
It's a big twin so don't expect sports bike revs or usable rev range. Above 7000 revs it's about to hit the rev limiter. Below 2000 revs it will chunter chatter and generally hammer it's big ends (big twins do that) so slogging at 1500 revs is a very bad idea.
Mine rattles around tick over in neutral but pull the clutch lever and the rattle stops. Some say it's gearbox end float. Mine has done it now for many thousands with no untoward signs.
The biggest difference (apart from weight) from a "normal" bike is the way it handles. No squirm over bumps (it just rocks) and sharp handling with considerable stability.
bikemad
Registered user
I used Valvoline 20/50 easy obtainable from Euro car parts was about £20
Ram
Registered user
Thanks for the tips. I was wondering what sort of revs most people ran around at. 2000rpm didn't sound right, even under no load. I havent really had much ride time on it to get a feel for when its a happy bunny, hopefully ill get some more time in the next week. I did love the ride, and the feel...but the buffeting spoilt it a bit so i will also play with scren angles and possibly replace the screen as its way past its best anyway. Thanks for all the replies.
Get a service kit online from Motorworks or James Sherlock and just use a good quality engine oil available from any factor. My tip would be to change the gearbox and drive oil at the same time so you know everything is fresh. Easy job which takes 10 minutes and a litre of GL5 will do the job nicely. I do this every service and 120,000 miles later she runs like a dream.
The clatter on start up is normal and I wouldn't worry about it. I'd keep the revs up a bit and you will find the bike is smooth and responsive.
The clatter on start up is normal and I wouldn't worry about it. I'd keep the revs up a bit and you will find the bike is smooth and responsive.
is that bog standard gl5?
Bendy toy
Registered user
I used 70-140 syntrax on my last gear-lever oil change.
Delboy777
Registered user
Why? I'm sure something else is specified.
Bendy toy
Registered user
The bike is 7 years old. Oil tech has moved on. Blah blah. 75-140 is good in the final drive so why not the gearbox which also has helical gears.
I'll give it a shot in mine next service and see if there's any difference / improvement.
RickSkye
Registered user
Hi, i have just got a 2009 gs and the clunks and things are a bit alarming. Every time i use the clutch, there is a metallic slap.
Like something dropping into place. Comments?
Like something dropping into place. Comments?
bikemad
Registered user
I often changed up no clutch was smooth as silk shut throttle quickly no lever to pull,its the way to do it once moving.
Gearbox & FD oil has to be GL5 rated so it don't break down under stress not just any type,the Syntrax 75/140 is thicker so might make less noise ?
As its cheap to do oil costs less than a new drive,gearbox or engines,reason my van gets serviced twice a year I want the turbo to last !
Gearbox & FD oil has to be GL5 rated so it don't break down under stress not just any type,the Syntrax 75/140 is thicker so might make less noise ?
As its cheap to do oil costs less than a new drive,gearbox or engines,reason my van gets serviced twice a year I want the turbo to last !
Guigsy
Registered user
I pretty much always wear ear plugs. I rode the short distance to work a couple of weeks back and as it's all 40mph or less and I was a bit short for time, I forgot the plugs.... damn does it sound like there's something about to fly through the side! I love the growl and over-run pops when I'm making some good progress though.
When checking oil (after I've come back from a ride, so it's warm), I'll run it without ear plugs between fills. When the oil is low (at the bottom of the sight glass), I think it does sound more rattly. Note that checking oil levels on the GS is a bit like water divining rods, everyone has a method that is a bit different and works for them... Like the rest of the GS experience, it's a personal thing.
When checking oil (after I've come back from a ride, so it's warm), I'll run it without ear plugs between fills. When the oil is low (at the bottom of the sight glass), I think it does sound more rattly. Note that checking oil levels on the GS is a bit like water divining rods, everyone has a method that is a bit different and works for them... Like the rest of the GS experience, it's a personal thing.
Bendy toy
Registered user
My clutch is quiet with lever pulled in. There is no metallic slap.
Gear shifts are noisy if the revs are not matched. Up shifts done quickly with just a little clutch suit me best. Downshifts need a throttle blip otherwise feel very brutal. But stopping in say 3rd and shouting down to first before moving off is fine. Stopping in higher gears can cause the gears to catch and refuse to shift unless the clutch is let out slightly. That can make some really horrible clunks.
The Yamaha Diversion 900 was the same. Clutchless up shifts, blips on the way down and never stop in a gear above 3rd.
Gear shifts are noisy if the revs are not matched. Up shifts done quickly with just a little clutch suit me best. Downshifts need a throttle blip otherwise feel very brutal. But stopping in say 3rd and shouting down to first before moving off is fine. Stopping in higher gears can cause the gears to catch and refuse to shift unless the clutch is let out slightly. That can make some really horrible clunks.
The Yamaha Diversion 900 was the same. Clutchless up shifts, blips on the way down and never stop in a gear above 3rd.
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