NZRalphy
Registered user
What a complete load of BULLSHIT on both counts..... read the manual on BOTH COUNTS..... see folks don't read the manual! Read the manual FFS
Newbie
- Thread starter edlees73
- Start date
What a complete load of BULLSHIT on both counts..... read the manual on BOTH COUNTS..... see folks don't read the manual! Read the manual FFS
My 2008 GSA has done 38,000 miles and the underside of the finned alloy stator casing has burst due to corrosion just like Bendy describes but it still works just fine. My bike gets ridden all year round but I use lots of ACF50 on the alternator to preserve it. I bought a spare used alternator which is in my pile of spares for the future should this one fail.
I ride all year as well.....looks like something else I am going to have to watch! Having said that I was about to say that I have never been left by the side of the road by any GS of any type over the 20 or so years I have been riding them.....but that would be stupidly just tempting fate.
Bendy toy
Registered user
Start the engine and ride away, avoid thrashing or slogging the engine until it's warmed up. Those big pistons slap all over the place if its left ticking over especially when it's stone cold.
A good quality semi synthetic oil is good enough. Fully synthetic is usually too thin causing rattles. BMW even recommend 20w50 though I doubt the real high milers use much of that.
My alternator has been making squeaky noises for a few weeks but keeps on working (2008, 60K). Pressure washing is no problem its too tucked away for that. But pressure wash the petrol tank and you'l find the stickers disappear.
A good quality semi synthetic oil is good enough. Fully synthetic is usually too thin causing rattles. BMW even recommend 20w50 though I doubt the real high milers use much of that.
My alternator has been making squeaky noises for a few weeks but keeps on working (2008, 60K). Pressure washing is no problem its too tucked away for that. But pressure wash the petrol tank and you'l find the stickers disappear.
Oh dear.
Other good advice would be to prepare yourself for reading a lot of opinionated rubbish, and be ready for people to get all shouty and abusive if you dare to disagree with them.
All manuals say not to warm up first..... It's to meet emission tests.
Minimum designed operating temperature is 80 degrees C.
If you follow the correct procedure to balance the throttle bodies, the engine oil has to be above 80 degrees! It becomes a problem beyond 130 degrees.
BMW's recommend oil is now semi synthetic BTW.
NZRalphy, calm down eh? Stop giving duff advice, and have a read of TFM yourself
Or get someone to read it to you.
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
In my former life we ran our 1200RT's on Castrol Actevo 20W - 50, & they were just fine at 60K when they were sold.
You are right though; they didn't use much of it.............
NZRalphy
Registered user
Right I'm off. I'll get my coat 
Always used Actevo here too; 20w50 or 10w40 depending on where I was riding. Now it's no discontinued, I'm liking the Power 1 15w50 semi. Best of both worlds!
About £36 for 4 litres; so why risk it with car oil and a couple of quid in your back pocket?
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
About £36 for 4 litres; so why risk it with car oil and a couple of quid in your back pocket?
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
Bendy toy
Registered user
Silcolene has always been good stuff.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00CEWJ16Q?psc=1
The Castrol Actevo Xtra is silly money in uk
Sent via iPhone so expect strange words
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00CEWJ16Q?psc=1
The Castrol Actevo Xtra is silly money in uk
Sent via iPhone so expect strange words
Thanks guys for all the info, it's done 36k miles. It has a fsh & has had the rear drive flange changed. The rear damper feels great or but is on maximum compression setting, so is it on the way out? Front cover is quite badly pitted unfortunately so I'm going through keep my eye out for a replacement & fit a crud catcher. I would think good 2nd hand front covers are like rocking horse shit though! only other issue is it seems slow to turn over although never fails to start, is this normal or is the battery on its last legs?
Bendy toy
Registered user
Crud catcher will hide the crappy front cover but stone chips are the least of your worries. The covers corrode from the bolt holes. Mine started at the alternator belt cover bottom screw and then the bottom two cover screws. The very middle bit where stones might hit was untouched.
I also had a serious mess at the top where it's fully hidden (protected?) by the alternator belt cover. It was so bad up there the crank position sensor started to leak oil. Thankfully it cleaned up ok.
Take the cover off. Have it dipped to strip the paint and then powder coat or paint to your taste.
Grit blasting won't strip it - the paint is tougher than the underlying metal. Get it dipped, then etched with the blaster, primed filled and painted. If the corrosion is really bad it can blow when powder coated leaving a rough finish. Get the dippers to put it into a coating oven for a few hours to dry out any moisture from any remaining corrosion pits.
When refitting use copper paste all the way up the cover screws. I also used copper washers under the screw heads. Its now over 12 months since coating and still looks fine. TBH its still early days.
I also had a serious mess at the top where it's fully hidden (protected?) by the alternator belt cover. It was so bad up there the crank position sensor started to leak oil. Thankfully it cleaned up ok.
Take the cover off. Have it dipped to strip the paint and then powder coat or paint to your taste.
Grit blasting won't strip it - the paint is tougher than the underlying metal. Get it dipped, then etched with the blaster, primed filled and painted. If the corrosion is really bad it can blow when powder coated leaving a rough finish. Get the dippers to put it into a coating oven for a few hours to dry out any moisture from any remaining corrosion pits.
When refitting use copper paste all the way up the cover screws. I also used copper washers under the screw heads. Its now over 12 months since coating and still looks fine. TBH its still early days.
See recent threads on batteries and starter motors. Reading these it's worth removing, cleaning and lubing the starter motor even if you do end up changing the battery as well. I'd start with the starter motor though.
Bendy toy
Registered user
Good call. My starter motor gearbox was as dry as sticks.
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