No power to Fuel pump

[george.peet]

Can anyone help me with this. I have an R1150 GSA 2004. all the following are tested and ok:
Fuel pump
fuel pump fuse
fuel pump relay
Ignition switch

No power at 4 pin plug connecting to fuel pump and sender unit. I am not sure what makes the relay switch work.

I hope its not the ECU!!

can any one advise me as to what to do as it is getting me down and that's an understatement

Many thanks

 

[Timolgra]

Check your sidestand switch and loom from the Ign

 

[(RIP) DitchWater]

Can you hear the pump priming itself when you engage the ingnition system?

If I remember correctly you should find a pulse of 12V, on the green wire, for about 2.5s and then nothing until you attempt to start the bike.

I presume the kill switch is in the correct position.

 

[davegs]

fuel pump

I assume you have power at the fuse?

 

[Mick_rw]

Testing the relays....

Can anyone help me with this. I have an R1150 GSA 2004. all the following are tested and ok:
Fuel pump
fuel pump fuse
fuel pump relay
Ignition switch

No power at 4 pin plug connecting to fuel pump and sender unit. I am not sure what makes the relay switch work.

I hope its not the ECU!!

can any one advise me as to what to do as it is getting me down and that's an understatement

Many thanks

For the fuel pump to fully function you need both fuel pump and ECU relays to be working. Test the horn works ok, then test both fuel and ECU relays in the horn relay socket. These 3 relays are identical.

If the ECU relay is not working then the ECU and the Fuel Pump will not work.

There is a direct link from the ECU to the Fuel Pump Relay and a direct link from the ECU relay to the Fuel Pump Relay.

 

[george.peet]

Many thanks, I will try it

 

[george.peet]

Can you hear the pump priming itself when you engage the ingnition system?

If I remember correctly you should find a pulse of 12V, on the green wire, for about 2.5s and then nothing until you attempt to start the bike.

I presume the kill switch is in the correct position.

The pump does not prime but when i took it off and tested it, it worked perfectly

 

[george.peet]

I assume you have power at the fuse?

Yes, I have tested that, thanks

 

[george.peet]

For the fuel pump to fully function you need both fuel pump and ECU relays to be working. Test the horn works ok, then test both fuel and ECU relays in the horn relay socket. These 3 relays are identical.

If the ECU relay is not working then the ECU and the Fuel Pump will not work.

There is a direct link from the ECU to the Fuel Pump Relay and a direct link from the ECU relay to the Fuel Pump Relay.

I have switched the relays around and all work perfectly. Many thanks for trying

 

[Mick_rw]

Does....

the RID show any information?

 

[george.peet]

the RID show any information?

I'll have a look tomorrow cause the tank's off at the moment. I think it was fine and normal. Many thanks anyway

 

[Mick_rw]

The reason....

I'll have a look tomorrow cause the tank's off at the moment. I think it was fine and normal. Many thanks anyway

I asked, is that if the RID shows nothing when the ignition is on then it could be a problem with the kill switch.

 

[george.peet]

I asked, is that if the RID shows nothing when the ignition is on then it could be a problem with the kill switch.

Hi, The RID is alright. Could it be the Hall sensor? - not that i know how to test them!!

Thanks for helping

 

[Mick_rw]

Don't think.....

Hi, The RID is alright. Could it be the Hall sensor? - not that i know how to test them!!

Thanks for helping

it will be the hall sensor, have just had mine replaced as it was faulty, but the fuel pump still worked ok. But then again I could be talking rubbish..... as far as I am aware the hall sensor basically tells the system when to spit fuel and spark. The only way to test the hall sensor is to plug in a diagnostics machine to have a look at the error codes.

One thing you could try, not sure if this will make any differnece, is reset the motronics unit, by ignition of, pull fuse 5, count to 20 and then replace the fuse. This will neutralise your settings.

Then reset TPS which you do by switching on the ignition. open the throttle fully, then close it fully, then repeat. Then turn off the ignition. Then turn it on and see what happens.

Have you done a continuity check of the wiring? How about the connector between the fuel tank and bike, could just be a dodgy connection.

My next step would be to see if someone local to you who has the same bike would be willing to let you use their ECU just to check it's not that causing the problem.

Other than that I can't think of anything else to check.

 

[(RIP) DitchWater]

According to Steptoe, you can test the hall sensors and he made a comment about it somewhere amongst the hall sensor threads.

I think it goes something like this:

power the bike;

remove primary plugs;

engage top gear;

rotate the rear wheel manually; and

listen for the fuel pump to prime when the gap of the steel ring on the end of the crankshaft passes through each of the hall sensors.

This happens twice per revolution of the engine in preparation to charge the cylinders.

There's a document within THIS link with more information.

 

[sockpuppet]

It won't be the hall sensor if it doesn't prime when ignition is switched on as that's nothing to do with the hall sensor.

 

[(RIP) DitchWater]

It won't be the hall sensor if it doesn't prime when ignition is switched on as that's nothing to do with the hall sensor.

Tis true.

If it's not the kill switch, the motronic relay, the fuel pump relay, or the fuses, it must be the wiring or the Motronic is not controlling the fuel pump relay and allowing the 12V to pass to the associated components.

George,

Can you find 12Vdc on the fuel injectors' green wires? These appear to recieve the same power as the FP.

I wish I had a factory manual instead of this Paynes: Do you have the wiring diagram or are you busking it?

 

[george.peet]

it will be the hall sensor, have just had mine replaced as it was faulty, but the fuel pump still worked ok. But then again I could be talking rubbish..... as far as I am aware the hall sensor basically tells the system when to spit fuel and spark. The only way to test the hall sensor is to plug in a diagnostics machine to have a look at the error codes.

One thing you could try, not sure if this will make any differnece, is reset the motronics unit, by ignition of, pull fuse 5, count to 20 and then replace the fuse. This will neutralise your settings.

Then reset TPS which you do by switching on the ignition. open the throttle fully, then close it fully, then repeat. Then turn off the ignition. Then turn it on and see what happens.

Have you done a continuity check of the wiring? How about the connector between the fuel tank and bike, could just be a dodgy connection.

My next step would be to see if someone local to you who has the same bike would be willing to let you use their ECU just to check it's not that causing the problem.

Other than that I can't think of anything else to check.

Many thanks for all your advice, I will try all that you said

 

[george.peet]

Tis true.

If it's not the kill switch, the motronic relay, the fuel pump relay, or the fuses, it must be the wiring or the Motronic is not controlling the fuel pump relay and allowing the 12V to pass to the associated components.

George,

Can you find 12Vdc on the fuel injectors' green wires? These appear to recieve the same power as the FP.

I wish I had a factory manual instead of this Paynes: Do you have the wiring diagram or are you busking it?

Hi, I only have a "Paynes" as well. I will circuit test the injectors but it's beegining to look like the ECU me thinks

cheers

 

[george.peet]

Many thanks for all your advice, I will try all that you said

Hi, I have found the problem, the 4 pin male plug (bike side) has power going in but none at the pin. must be a break inside the din plug. I don't know how to take the pins apart and repair the wire