Noise from Zumo660 in monitors via Autocom

[Pukmeister]

Got my Autocom Super Pro Avi fitted with BTM-02 for phone calls over Bluetooth via the Zumo 660. Also got MP3 audio from Zumo660 via a stereo isolator lead (and Kenwood PMR radio for bike to bike although not relevant as currently removed). I use in-ear monitors from Ultimate Ear. Bike is a 2008 GSA.

No matter which way the audio is routed to the Autocom (either by Bluetooth or audio cable) I can hear a very feint humming and intermittent squawking noise in the background, which is coming from the Zumo. When the Zumo is turned off the noise goes away, so I think it is electrical/electronic noise from the headstock aux power feed to the Zumo unit.

The Zumo is powered from the BMW connector cable. Anyone know if a suppressed cable can be bought to clean up the supply to the Zumo, or any other way to fix it??

Thanks in advance.

 

[mcinlb]

I had a similar 'noise' through my Autocom / BTM-02 ( strangely worse when indicators were on), I have now fitted an Autocom supply filter to power the SPA/BT. Still to test but hope it clears it up............

 

[Pukmeister]

Thanks for that, I'll check Chainspeeds site and see what they can provide.

I've got limited knowledge of electronics but I'm always surprised this sort of kit doesn't come with interference/power line noise filters built in to the parent device. Another way to make some coin I guess.

 

[hatzyian]

Make sure that the power supply for all the units comes from the same point.
I found that this stopped the hum

 

[beemerboy9]

If the noise goes away when you use helmet speakers rather than in-ear monitors, then it is just down to the brutal clarity of the monitors.

My Autocom makes a slight hum when using monitors but I have got used to it.

If you can hear the hum with helmet speakers, then it should be possible to remove it.

 

[Pukmeister]

Make sure that the power supply for all the units comes from the same point.
I found that this stopped the hum

I guess I could rewire the Zumo switched feed from my Fuzeblock under the seat instead of the headstock and see if it makes a difference.

I did wonder if my in-ear monitors were super sensitive unlike the helmet speakers.

I might try using my iPhone 4S for mp3 over an audio cable (instead of the bike powered Zumo) if I can still receive calls over the Bluetooth. Not sure if this is possible as the iPhone may try to use the audio jack instead of Bluetooth when answering calls.

 

[Pukmeister]

Just to update for the benefit of others, I just rewired the supply and earth for my Zumo 660 GPS unit onto a switched fuseway from my Fuzeblock unit under the seat. This means the GPS, Autocom and Bluetooth dongle are all fed from the same supply. The noise I mentioned earlier has now gone when sending audio over both Bluetooth and an isolated audio cable.

Previously I was taking +12vdc and 0 volts from the headstock BMW gps connector to feed the Zumo, which was picking up signal noise from its supply.

Just gotta tidy up the wiring after the testing then go for a spin.

Thanks to Hatzyian and others for the help.

 

[Pukmeister]

Ignore the above, bloody noise is still present from the alternator. What with that, the clumsiness of having wires between bike/rider plus the annoying changes in volume via Autocom when riding I've decided to bin it all and have just ordered a Bluetooth Sena 20S dual pack instead.

 

[Ted]

Ignore the above, bloody noise is still present from the alternator. What with that, the clumsiness of having wires between bike/rider plus the annoying changes in volume via Autocom when riding I've decided to bin it all and have just ordered a Bluetooth Sena 20S dual pack instead.

After a lot of messing about with different cables, wire positions, settings on the autocom, GPS etc found something odd. If you turn the ignition on so unit bike powered, no need to start the bike. Then turn the screen brightness up and down it alters the interference and at 100% brightness it stops! also seems to disappear at 0%. Any one else try this and let me know if its just my 660 and autocom. Thanks

 

[Outsider]

That would make sense; the screen brightness is controlled with PWM. At 0% it is completely off and at 100% it's fully on (no switching). In-between it is switching on and off very quickly and it is this that is causing the noise. I'm sure it shouldn't be doing it. Perhaps the Satnav has developed a fault?


- Outsider (via Tapatalk)

 

[Ted]

That would make sense; the screen brightness is controlled with PWM. At 0% it is completely off and at 100% it's fully on (no switching). In-between it is switching on and off very quickly and it is this that is causing the noise. I'm sure it shouldn't be doing it. Perhaps the Satnav has developed a fault?


- Outsider (via Tapatalk)

Yep totally agree but non the less that's exactly what happens. This is my second 660 with this problem. I put up with it on the last one but it developed a fault, stopped reading the SD card, so sent it in and received an exchange unit last week. Exactly the same noise, hence all the messing about rewiring, isolating and just plain pressing buttons to see what affected it had. That is the only thing that had any affect on the noise. Just hoping some one else can duplicate, or not, and then on to garmin again.

Just for info as to what's fitted etc. My wife and I have identical 2009 BMW 1200Gs bikes fitted with Activplus units and Bike to Bike radios and Zumo GPS units both bikes are wired the same and all unites are powered via a switched fuse unit, not directly from the bike electrics.The only difference is my bike has a Zumo 660 and the other is a 550.
I have been experiencing a buzzing interference through my head set which is not present on the 550 equipped bike. I have bought the various cables recommended to cure this problem, latest is the 4004 part no, While this dose indeed cure it it drops the volume on the GPS to a level that I can't hear it above 50 mph. All the GPS and autocom volumes are set to max (100%). After a lot of messing about with different cables, wire positions, settings on the autocom, GPS etc found something odd. If you turn the ignition on so unit bike powered, no need to start the bike. Then turn the screen brightness up and down it alters the interference and at 100% brightness it stops! also seems to disappear at 0%. I do use custom made ear plugs.

Think that about covers it..

 

[Outsider]

Definitely sounds like EMI to me. Whether they all do it or your one has a problem, I don't know. Other 660 owners don't report the same?


- Outsider (via Tapatalk)

 

[KevinW]

I guess I could rewire the Zumo switched feed from my Fuzeblock under the seat instead of the headstock and see if it makes a difference.

I did wonder if my in-ear monitors were super sensitive unlike the helmet speakers. <snip>

We can hear noise in our in-ear monitors as well. Ours is already wired to a Fuzeblock and the noise disappears when the 660 is switched off. Worse, when our heated gear is switched on we can hear it constantly clicking as the temperature is regulated. There's no noise at all from the same unit when it's fitted to other bikes.

Kevin

 

[Roadrash Rider]

If your using the duel Autocom Isolating lead to connect the Zumo to the Autocom and Autocom mounted under seat then I had this on the last GS, and found that routing the audio cables from underseat to the headstock the only way to get rid of the buzz was to run the audio cables along the right side of the bike frame as high up away from the alternator as you can and then tight under the beak on the top sub frame. keeping the audio cables as far away from most of the electrical loom as possible. Just transferred the same kit last week from the GS to a GSA and ran it in the same location so far it’s clear sound no buzzing, its definitely electrical pick up isolated leads or not it’s a suck it and see game of where you have run the audio cables.

The other problem that has put noise into my mates Zumo was the stereo connections onto the isloating lead, the 3.5mm one had parted only by about 5mm but was picking up noise, pushed it home and noise disappeared, ended up putting a bit of heatshrink of the connections and its been fine since.

Worth a look

 

[Pukmeister]

That makes sense as when I tested my Autocom audio from the Zumo with the bike running, I had the leads outside the fuel tank temporarily plugged in for testing. Once routed beneath the tank the noise appeared.

Like I said, Ive got new comms on order so I can't be arsed with Autocom anymore Ive spent enough time and money on it.