Not another oil thread, BUT....

But i just like knowing ive got the best money can buy in my engine.

you might add....even if it is unnecessary,overspecced and won't make my engine last any longer in normal use.

the oil companies must :hug you :D
 
Where does this phrase "too thin" come from regarding synthetic oil. The oil grade is just that, if it's 20/50 synthetic or straight mineral 20/50 the grade is the same.

My limited understanding of this subject, after having read a lot about it, is that synthetic stays within its viscosity range even after much use & extremes of heat. Wheras mineral oil doesn't. But in the real world, it's probably anorakish bollacks:clap

Just did a search & found this:

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49911&highlight=opie
 
I use Duckhams 20/50, now called 'classic oil'

I hear one Gser has tried his on diesel !
 
All i know is mine had fresh semi 10/40 in it when i bought it, and it rattled like a skeleton w###ing in a biscuit tin! Replaced it with the Duchams/halfords classic 20/50 and its quiet and smooth. Rattling noises, metal on metal mean wear and tear i would imagine. But hey, each to his own. As i say as long as you change when you should and your not racing every week i cant see a problem.
 
All i know is mine had fresh semi 10/40 in it when i bought it, and it rattled like a skeleton w###ing in a biscuit tin! Replaced it with the Duchams/halfords classic 20/50 and its quiet and smooth. Rattling noises, metal on metal mean wear and tear i would imagine. But hey, each to his own. As i say as long as you change when you should and your not racing every week i cant see a problem.


Mine too, had 20/50 semi supplied at last service, reduced mechanical noise dramatically, I will stick with it you pays your money...................
 
But you could fill the engine with grease and it would be even quieter, or lard for that matter.
A 5W50 synthetic will be the same thickness as a 20W50 mineral after the engine has warmed a little. I know which will stand extreme temperatures better, and which will keep its viscosity for longer.
 
show me the big pile of failed engines that have been running on mineral oil.
 
Scrap_Engine_Transmission.jpg


:D
 
show me the big pile of failed engines that have been running on mineral oil.


Cookie me ol mucker, Austin Champs had a faulty rear Diff, Renault Master Vans (88-94) had a faulty clutch cable route, I couldn’t show you a pile of either the diffs or the clutch cables. But they, like many other failed designs are real. Also, better engine lubrication wouldn’t stop failings, only keep them smoke free and not in need of rebuild or overhaul.
:)
 
i always used motul semi 10/40 in my blade which had its arse whipped on a regular basis and i changed it every 4000 miles the 1150gs gets 20/50 every 3000 mineral is cheap so it gets changed on shorter intervals plus on the blade i used a higher spec oil because the gearbox gives the oil a hard time

the gs engine is understressed so needs less tech to look after it

andy:augie
 


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