Now sort out the quality BMW

I really do rinse it very well and always have. A good while with hose pipe all round. Occasionally my sons GS poor state pisses me off so I do his in same way and his discs don't rust like mine. They surface rust where pads make contact but that's all. Plus on his GS and on my previous one there is black paint above and below where pads make contact but bikes like mine and your triple black GSa's no longer have this. Another cost saving ?
 
Quote from nutty. Exactly. Reading on here, you'd think that ALL current GS's have corrosion issues. They don't. Quote

Exactly and I am not suggesting it's all GS bikes. Far from it as stated my 2016 GS was fine
 
My new R1200R is 7 weeks old and has covered 1400 miles and is going back to have rear subframe, centre stand and grabrail/rack replaced due to corrosion.
First new bike and a little pissed to say the least.

from the dark side this was sent
 
My new R1200R is 7 weeks old and has covered 1400 miles and is going back to have rear subframe, centre stand and grabrail/rack replaced due to corrosion.
First new bike and a little pissed to say the least.

from the dark side this was sent

.............. :eek
 
If it's dry I will happily put it away mucky but wouldn't think to put it away wet.

Same here. Even if the roads have been gritted, if the bike remains dry, and has some salt dust on it, I'll put it away and wash it over the next few days. As soon as that salt gets wet, it either needs to be shampood off, or rinsed thoroughly, then blow dried.
 
Get some AHB disc protector spray if you're worried about the look.

http://www.directsupplyukltd.co.uk/brake-disc-protect/p368

Another thing that you can do, and it's what I do, is after washing, whether I've blow dried it or not, I ride it for about 150 metres down the road and back again in second gear with plenty of throttle and the brakes fairly well on, then put it away with hot discs, the discs are far too hot to touch and obviously very dry, and it stops you having those brake pad sized rust patches on the discs the next time you get the bike out.
However I live on a quiet village street which makes it easy for me to do this, I would imagine if you live on a busy street it might not be worth the effort.
 
For what its worth, I have a 15 plate 1200 GS WC. Its not terribly well looked after. I just get on it and ride it. It's ridden in winter and am currently using to and from work(75 miles a day 4 days a week), at all times of day and night and in all conditions. It's only really washed when its bad enough to not be able to read the number plate, and so far cant see any rust anywhere..... although its now on its 3rd set of handlebar switchgear, and drive shaft is clunking and banging like a bugger. i guess im posting this to say that its not all of them that are corroding, so some owners must be unluckier than others, or build quality might be patchy, or there is an unknown that is, errrr unknown..

I'll get my coat.
 
The brake discs and calipers are made by Brembo. I know that it is not ideal but it is quite common for Brembo discs to show some rust. The material that they use is why their brakes are so good.

Years ago I owned a Ducati, and the best thing about this bike was the Brakes worked in the wet while Japanese bikes did not , Reason , the brake rotors rusted because they were cast and not stainless like the Jap bikes. So forget about the beauty parade and complain when function is an issue.
 
Same here. Even if the roads have been gritted, if the bike remains dry, and has some salt dust on it, I'll put it away and wash it over the next few days.

Trouble with that is, if there is moisture in the air the salt will absorb it and the corrosion process will start. During Winter I frequently go weeks, if not months, only rinsing the bike (thoroughly) and putting it away wet, I very rarely give it a full wash in Winter, I've not add any problems yet.

Bob
 
I don't understand the rinser people (unless it's a time thing)...

Dry or wet ride I always wash down with a wash and wax product which creates plenty of foamy suds. Using a selection of eight or so cleaning implements I'm able to bring an RT back to full clean from crap inside twenty five minutes. Full on mucky bike I use a hose but for anything else it's a rinse down with using a large pump action garden sprayer after washing with the suds. Wipe the bike down afterwards with a couple microfibre cloths and put away. Probably still damp in certain areas but never had corrosion on a BMW or any other bike.
 
Seriously? after a daily commute in everything barring actual snow you expect me to spend an hour in a freezing cold garage cleaning the bike? that's just not reasonable. maybe the reason you never had corrosion is because you don't go out in the rain or ride many miles? the complaints here are about PAINTED surfaces that are RUSTING from BELOW the paint... that's not a care issue that a paint QUALITY issue and it makes my blood boil after paying the high prices BMW charge !
 


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