Odd progressive fuel economy failing.

What is a TPS? Nobody in this thread has said what it is? If it's the on off, three times with the throttle then yes i've done it but will run three or four tanks to show a pattern, at the moment no improvement but my riding style has changed on the last tank due to carrying luggage and a pillion which i would naturally expect to make an impact. It's not the brakes, it runs freely and i've had the wheels off to check bearings, etc already.

See Citybum's post number 13 on this thread. That describes the procedure. :rob
 
Already done that... Got no result and I had assumed I was waiting for a fault code as he was telling me how to check for faults and never got one. Anyway, riding faster seems to be stretching the fuel out. Mine is also dead as a doornail in first gear and i generally kick into second early for that reason so it sort of makes sense. So.... anyone got an 1150? Does this kind of thing happen with them?
 
To read fault codes requires a diagnostic computer connected to the bike. BMUU dealers have a device called GT-1, and us consumers can buy e device known as a GS-911, which comes in two models basic, and pro. The difference being that the basic is limited to connecting to 10 different machines by storing VIN numbers.

Both the GT-1 and the GS-911 connect to the diagnostic port under your seat and can read the fault codes on assorted controllers, and some of their inputs.

To read off fault codes, if any, will require a dealer; a friendly tosser with the PRO version of the GS-911; or a friendly tosser who doesn't mind using up one of his VINs for you.

My guess is that you want to leave the dealer to a very last option? So you would need a volunteer from these here parts to step up and help you out with that.

Another option is to check the spark plugs, but I see that you already have and that had short term benefits. That could be a coil breaking down. I had one once that would work fine immediately after I had moved it around a little bit, then would start to play up again. The symptoms were a very slightly reduced power output and responsiveness and lower fuel consumption, but would really only be noticeable after I had reseated the coil, where the whole engine would feel much more responsive and lively. I note that when you changed the plugs they were sooty and damaged. The first may be pointing to an issue with one or more coils, the second is worrying: Just how did it get damaged in the cylinder head? Coils are difficult to diagnose for faults. Generally if they have a problem, it only manifests itself under engine load. The normal course of action is to replace and see if it gets better, which is not cheap. Perhaps you can enlist the help of your brother and swap coils, one at a time, too see if the problem transfers to his bike? Be aware that the upper coils are swappable left/right, but not the lower ones.
 
For the TPS you need to first disconnect the battery for about 30 seconds. then reconnect, turn ignition on (do not start), twist throttle to full 3 times, switch ignition off. Then start.

Believe me, it really does work!
 
Actually I had a battery failure and replaced it with an Odyssey during this whole time and that reset made no difference. I have noticed something today which has shed some light on it all though so please, if anyone knows what they're talking about better than i do then see if this makes sense. Now we've had a bit of decent weather so i though, great, lets just play with the bike, nothing helps you forget your bike woes like ragging it a bit. I even ran at least a quater of my tenner with a pillion and some luggage and to my surprise it ran to 95 miles on a tenner. Today I went on a memorial run with 200 sports bikes and was a little worried about keeping up as these guys have a reputation for driving like twats. Needn't have worried, and I let the throttle out a little more than i usually would and made a decent pace upon which the law might frown. When we first arrived at the start the tank clicked onto half at 35 miles, a new low considering it usually hits this point between 50 and 60 and has held out to 70 on occasions when it's run to 115 on my tenner. On the way back it clocked up 70, 80 and then 90 and then clicked onto "reserve" at 92 with 50 miles showing left (usually 37 but more recently has been showing 45, never showed as much as 50 before.) This is decent milage at the rates i was travelling and translates to better than a 600 hornet can deliver and better than an R1, Daytona, Kawasaki Z600 "somethingorother" and ZZR1100 could deliver all day. Now it dawns on me, I usually ride out on Sundays with my brother and we tend to ride pretty hard and get reasonable milage. Then I get lousy milage and that bothers me so I drive more carefully and get progressively worse milage. Then I say, "to hell with it" and get good milage again. This seems to me that it's a problem at low revs and as the economy gets worse I respond by riding more sedately, around the 3500 mark before the second wave of power kicks in and that creates a worsening problem. The worse the problem gets, the more carefully I ride and it just goes round and round! Considering it's done this since just after I got it implies that it there's a minor problem I've exasperated with judicious tuning. It seems that the new pipes and filter are making her run rich as the canbus tries to compensate which is buggering up her bottom end. Make sense? I reckon she needs a new map and more thrashing?
 
As for comparing to a car, can I get a family car that can do 50mpg and 0-60 in 5 seconds and that can filter through traffic jams? Nope, didn't think so.

What a stupid reply. The point was about the fuel consumption, not about filtering. No-one was suggesting that a car could filter.

And I'd not drive a family car that took 5 seconds to do 0-60, either, life's too short for dawdling...
 


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