Off to Iran, at last

Through the mountains of Luristan to Isfahan ...

...is what I have been doing over the last couple of days - mainly over 2000 metres and with fabulous views.

So I will post a few pictures, rather than waffle on...

The Taq e bustan in Kermanshah, right behind my hotel

2ca6037b0c79cbc1e9438199fe6da343.jpg


The highly reviewed, friendly but a bit chaotic Hotel Jamshid
0c6af2da36ef889ed4033b8cbf696671.jpg


The Bisotun world heritage site outside Kermanshah
IMG_5167.jpg
The best bit, Darius, was closed for repair!
IMG_5171.JPG

Had a wave from these guys as I ate my sahnie by the roadside

IMG_5176.jpg
I decided to break my journey to Isfahan at about 4pm as I had little sleep the night before - my so-called 4 star hotel had turned off the aircon as 'some guests found it cold' so I sweltered instead!

So I ended up in the biggest town around (Aligoudarz) and its one hotel -

IMG_5179.jpg

although it called itself an international tourist hotel they admitted to me that it was a good while since they had one so I was a bit of a novelty. As a result the manager crept around taking photos of me, whether having a cuppa or eating my dinner!
c629d57fa98c1d1a1c7293b443347228.jpg


They insisted I bring the bike to outside the front door (there was hardly a soul around) so I indulged them. When I came out 20 minutes later the receptionist was sitting on the GS, away with his dreams! And indeed the biggest local bike I have seen is a 135cc.

IMG_5185.JPG

The Luris are another of Iran's ethnic mix - around 2%. Many years ago (1800BC) they were superb metallurgists in bronze, I read, before medieval wars drove them to become nomadic brigands - although they seemed quite sedate to me, this brigand history may be why they wanted the bike kept in sight!

The view made up off it all and I slept far better in this 2star than the posh one!

522fb2ef49e26fc9bb3f67eb603b8f97.jpg


I was an Early bird the next morning as I wanted to arrive in Isfahan early enough to score a decent hotel room, of which I am told Isfahan has a shortage.

It's cold and I remember : I am at 2000m. For the last day I have changed from my leather Rukka trousers to a pair of armoured Kevlar jeans, and I wonder whether it will be enough today (it was).

When I get underway at 8.10, I am glad I stopped when I did yesterday - the road over the next hour or so is high and lonely, up to 2500m, and the distance to the next place likely to have a hotel is far. From this I formulate another rule for this trip which is always to stop before I feel tired - because there can be few options later, and I am under loose time constraints thanks to my wonderful wife .



The Approach to Esfahan is pretty grim with lots of speed bumps and traffic starting from 20kms out.

When I arrive the heat and the one-way streets fox both me and Garmin - but I decide to put the bike in a parking garage and walk around to a few hotels in the central area. Soon I land an adequate one, the Hotel Venus - even though they do me for the cost of the double room, it's a seller's market as Esfahan has relatively few hotels.

So by 1 pm I am all sorted and the bike is in their underground garage. So the bazaar and mosque beacon. A few photos in due course


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
But here goes ...IMG_5202.JPG

IMG_5204.JPG

And one of the many caravanserais embedded in the covered market, where merchants and their camels would stay. (Per Lonely Planet).You can see in some of them the sloping walkway for the camels.
IMG_5205.jpg
Great doors even if in disrepair
IMG_5206.JPG
And ceilings in the bazaar with heat vents
IMG_5210.JPG

At the Friday Mosque (masjed Jameh)
c1768ccbdc5c64e08957092ea1d7da54.jpg


5c3e98c3db33f076e4d15d093c6a3f99.jpg


5956a804049c83a9a308cf4d11602930.jpg


My quick check this evening says they tyres have a few miles in then still- which is good as I doubt Tourances or any motorcycle tyre this size is available in Iran!

64bdf7d819228e24fb9022678e67dc1d.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Simon, We went to Isfahan as a family (with 4 young children) over Christmas in mid-2000's and were warmy welcomed - I can tell you with certainty, that those heat vents also let in the snow and sleet! You should be thankful that you have the bike as an excuse as to why you cannot part with money for at least one carpet with all of those sellers in the market. You might ant to see if you can get into Vank Cathedral (we never knew it existed until after we had left!) seee: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vank_Cathedral
(Not sure if you are headed farther south towards Shiraz - Highway 65 - but if so, please do see if you can get the time to visit Persepolis? The Shah had quite a gig there, back in the day, but the remains of this city complex are breathtaking.) Thanks for the photos and narrative....superb!
 
Thanks guys for the support and ideas. Today is my second day off this trip - and unlike the first I feel OK and ready to wander around.

My To Do list prepared over breakfast:

1 Find sellotape as map is disintegrating (effects of putting in and out of tank bag - sorry Jim)
2 see if reception can book me a Shiraz hotel for tomorrow
3 maybe change money although spending under budget so far
4 buy some engine oil (although can wait until Shiraz)
5 visit Aki Kapu palace, walk by river across Si O seh bridge, if possible visit Masjed e shah
6 chill out

I have sketched out a rough itinerary over breakfast for this trip even though I am trying to resist any planning so I can follow my impulse on the day.

This is it but of course subject to change at my whim:

Shiraz (2 nights)
Kerman
Yazd
Garmeh
Kashan
Tehran (esp for museum)
Tabriz (decision point)

For the moment I have dropped a couple of things. You will see Bandar Abbas is not there- although I wanted to see the Persian gulf and maybe take a boat ride to Hormuz and have packed malaria pills and mozzie net, it's a long hot ride for not that much.

Likewise Mashhad - although a great gateway to Turkmenistan, I will have to save that for a Silk Road trip - today it seems like a long desert ride across, and remember I am not equipped with spares (other than underpants).

Do say if you think I am missing anything...the beauty of this itinerary is it isn't even cast in jelly, let alone stone, so it gets reviewed every morning!

Tabriz is labelled as a 'decision point' because there I can decide whether to go back through Turkey, or head up through Armenia and Georgia to take a boat from Batumi to Odessa and thence home across Ukraine etc.

I suspect I will then consult my appetite for further adventures, and look carefully at the weather maps (precipitation more than temperature) and the tread left on my tyres.

Hang on in there!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Great reports and photographs Simon. Whichever way you decide to return we're all right there with you :thumb

Just keep us informed and the photographs coming :D

Ride safe

:beerjug:
 
Well done Simon, keep it coming. :thumb2

Great reports with a bit of everything. Glad to see the bike is going as well as ever :thumb2
 
Isfahan

Great report Simon. When in Isfahan you should go and have tea in the
"Shah Abbas" hotel. Fantastic garden cooled with pools and fountains.
Also the Chehel Sotoun is a must.

Chehel Sotoun (also Chihil Sutun or Chehel Sotoon; Persian: چهل ستون‎‎, literally: “Forty Columns”) is a pavilion in the middle of a park at the far end of a long pool, in Isfahan, Iran, built by Shah Abbas II to be used for his entertainment and receptions. In this palace, Shah Abbas II and his successors would receive dignitaries and ambassadors, either on the terrace or in one of the stately reception halls.

The name, meaning "Forty Columns" in Persian, was inspired by the twenty slender wooden columns supporting the entrance pavilion, which, when reflected in the waters of the fountain, are said to appear to be forty.[1]

Also a must :-

Si-o-seh pol. Allāhverdi Khan Bridge (Persian: پل الله*وردی*خان‎‎), popularly known as Si-o-seh pol (Persian: سی وسه پل‎‎; [ˈsiː oˈseh ˈpol], “The bridge of thirty-three spans”) is one of the eleven bridges of Isfahan, Iran and the longest bridge on Zayandeh River with the total length of 297.76 metres (976.9 ft).

Have a great time, if you to the bazaar you will find some really cheap but great eateries.
 
Simon, I don't want to distract you but in looking at your forward planning for options on your return routes there is another thread running on the site, which I have just come across, that may interest you: http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/436307-08-2016-Georgia-and-Azerbaijan
There seems to be a lot of ground at elevation which may be too cold for your return route.....
Enjoy the day and safe riding!
 
'Sunday in Isfahan (actually Friday but it's the same thing)...

...was a fabulously relaxed and enjoyable day, much quieter and with most shops closed. I think I am falling in love with Isfahan, its leafy avenues and friendly people.

Having served Mammon and Mohammed yesterday by visiting the bazaar and the mosque Jameh respectively, today I nodded to the other guy and visited Vank cathedral and its museum in the morning (well worth the visit and thanks Kitsilano for the recommendation) but then dedicated the rest of the day to enjoying Isfahan's beautiful parks, bridges and buildings.

Photos below


Vank cathedral - dramatic Armenian frescoes
[​IMG]IMG_5243.JPG

A another view in the cathedral close
[​IMG]IMG_5245.JPG

the fabulous Se o si bridge
IMG_5237.jpg
where I am asked to join a family snap
IMG_5231.jpg

It's good to warn people
DSC01265.JPG

DSC01265.jpg
As they could bang their heads diving into this
deabf7fe8b8bc7521908e96e68463f37.jpg

DSC01260.JPG

Who needs wunderlich?
ab120b4eb18b27652b12e7e996e2d8eb.jpg


I avoid the fish and chip shop
[​IMG]
01658553090debd65d97124beaad973f.jpg


and decide on the local lunchtime speciality of lamb biryanis, at Azam - a well know chain and busy today
76ac1abf5085d169bdd645ad6c8cf0a5.jpg

You get a numbered ticket so I was good practice in learning Persian numbers - I now know 6 is a .

I bring this lunch to a lovely park and like the families around, follow it with a kip. My pre-kip view
bdb6e73b08bbb3db007dabde9c3bff1d.jpg


Later on I sit and read at the enormous Emam square enjoying the sunset light and the fountains
7257ae24d069771082e3a470b5420980.jpg

6ca8d61a28fc947de43cd1164275596a.jpg


I watch a budgie salesman at work
4cd8c28b1a81d8116a18051497ff1c6d.jpg
and he succeeds; the pomegranate juice seller was captivated by the beauty of them and 20 minutes later I returned to see them calmly perched on his terminal
f3c9b51df02fef060f7f9b98e4a761f7.jpg


The day finishes with a check down of the bike's readiness for combat as we are off to Shiraz tomorrow. I even open my Haynes manual (not something I often do, as Steptoe will attest!) as I have been worrying a bit about the fact I haven't planned an oil change. I am pleasantly reminded that actually it's a 20k Kms routine so I should be good for the trip. The old tractor does have its merits! So far about 5,000 miles since home so I will likely be above 20k Kms all told.

Time for bed and fresh for the morning- after a day off the bike I am hankering to get moving!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Simon, I don't want to distract you but in looking at your forward planning for options on your return routes there is another thread running on the site, which I have just come across, that may interest you: http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/436307-08-2016-Georgia-and-Azerbaijan
There seems to be a lot of ground at elevation which may be too cold for your return route.....
Enjoy the day and safe riding!

A fascinating post which I remember reading before. Thanks for posting it. I think that travelling alone in November on a heavily laden GS this might not be the wisest choice...but let's see. In my travelling library I do have a guidebook to Georgia and Armenia (which is more than I had last year when I First rode through them!).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Well done Simon, keep it coming. :thumb2

Great reports with a bit of everything. Glad to see the bike is going as well as ever :thumb2

Thanks Neil. Fingers crossed the bike is purring along. Even the clutch has stopped stinking but that took about 3.000 miles. Hoping the powers of St. Eptoe will keep her running but you will be one of the first to hear if not, as my mechanical guru!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Great report and pictures Simon, particularly the Armenian fresco. My sympathies in leaving Esfahan tomorrow but you have Shiraz and Persepolis to look forward too. Worth filling up when you can as petrol stations were not so easy to find on that route in May.
 
Saturday - to Shiraz

What a great day!

I was on the road by 0800, having been warned it was a good days ride from Isfahan Shiraz.

The most difficult bit was the steep angled ramp out of the parking garage and the marble floors that precede it - I was ultra cautious because it would be a real weight to pick that bike up.

But we made it out of the hotel parking and heading South into the rush hour traffic. Once we got motoring I noticed it was becoming much more desert like

DSC01276.jpg

DSC01279.jpg

Light traffic, so I was able to make good steady progress, accelerating only when a friendly Iranian was driving too close to me as he wanted to wave or observe the bike. I say 'he' because there are few women drivers but I did see a woman taxi driver yesterday somewhere.

I also fuelled the bike conservatively as I had been tipped off there were long stretches with no petrol stations. Every station sells petrol at 10,000 rials/litre and as there are c. 36,000rials to the US$, it's hard to spend a lot on petrol!

Lots of grapes for sale by the road - Shiraz, no doubt.
The road Climbs to 2500m and it cools a little - I don't have the benefit of a thermometer to tell me, (but I can tell hot from cold), unlike these new fangled motorcycles.

First hand evidence on the road (if you can read the logo) that Coke is alive and well in Iran
012cee833a892bfe75a1dca4d6f144bd.jpg

Everywhere there is Great geology but I resist the temptation to snap away.
8196daa07a330a392b6f27ff7a849f5c.jpg


I Stop briefly at Pargidae, which is where Darius's dad Cyrus built the first city - this is his tomb marker;
DSC01280.jpg
Then on to Persepolis- empty, warm, beautiful. A few compulsory photos:
DSC01287.JPG
DSC01290.jpg
fd4679c034242806a3c36aa082609a29.jpg

19a87b0776220699594661e539c8fa31.jpg

f44d1dcfa97417cda8b1763d62d6cba4.jpg

Then on to Shiraz and in a First for my time in Iran, my GPS takes me directly to the hotel - and they have a room and give me a very friendly reception there! I check in at 3pm and am amazed what I have accomplished in a day.

So I go off to admire the citadel
10b6e0963c0a723c0e4e35cf6a4a6b89.jpg


wander the fabulous bazaars,

18485b6764b2d2b1a2c41accdd1ca41c.jpg

173b80db8775c6a38e4a30d2d6b8a606.jpg


have an early dinner and head back to the hotel - where I decided to read my history book (The Silk Road) and wake up at midnight fully clothed lying on my bed!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 


Back
Top Bottom