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Off to Iran, at last
- Thread starter simondippenhall
- Start date
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An interesting day on which I will report tomorrow. In the meantime, here are some sights of Yazd where Ashura celebration is in full swing
The masjed e Jameh (Friday mosque)
Old doors of Yazd
And you get badgirs at night here, too (and happily, not flattened on the road like in UK!)
My romantic hotel courtyard in the old city
Sadly, the love of my life is far away
, so I shall content myself with reading my history books!
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The masjed e Jameh (Friday mosque)
Old doors of Yazd
And you get badgirs at night here, too (and happily, not flattened on the road like in UK!)
My romantic hotel courtyard in the old city
Sadly, the love of my life is far away
, so I shall content myself with reading my history books!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ash, you are welcome! Glad you are finding it interesting. Photos more limited as I am having Internet issues.
Starting week 4...
I realise as I set off that I have been on the road for three weeks and done just short of 6,000 miles - my average mileage has rightly plummeted now I am in Iran because the focus is on experiencing the country and the people.
Last night was also notable because I met the first English tourist and the first Scrabble game - unsurprisingly they were linked!
Also I said farewell to 'imam' Alberto- you can see how he got his nickname! He is in fact Spanish and a retired English teacher, full of enthusiasm for Iran and all its sights.
The roads are quiet as it is Ashura but the petrol station is open and I am on my way by 8
Head into the hills to Meynand- we climb to 2500m before I attain this remote troglodyte village (or rather village of former troglodytes cave houses) which is thronged with people.
I am ambushed en route and given hot chocolate and buns! There is a car behind me so I ride off holding a paper cup of hot chocolate in my gob - not recommended!
I leave these nippers in. Ha the of the motorcycle
It's in the middle of Ashura celebrations which I observe respectfully but am soon dragged into the dancing (there is a video to follow in a later post - no comments on style please).
More on Ashura here:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ashura
I visit one of the caves- its inhabitants are there and welcome us in.
I am warned the bike may be tampered with but the boys seem to have guarded it faithfully. More importantly the bike has not fallen over on any of them!
Then off again, but I stop (as I promised myself I would) to photograph these lovely trees
Plus the usual fabulous mountains and lots of desert - it was hot!
It gets increasingly hot as I approach Yazd. I am stopped by police at a checkpoint but again it's a formality.
But again I am ambushed by a roadblock - of people handing out delicious hot meals to motorists. So I stop and much on some yummy beef and rice in a tasty sauce.
Getting into Yazd is interesting as I am lodging near the Masjed e Jameh which is the centre of the day's celebrating.
I overtake 2 parades, threading my way through pedestrians and horses!
When I ask for directions I am sent riding though the narrow alleys and winding lanes of the bazaar before eventually finding my residence.
There sat in the comfortable courtyard I meet (another) Dutch group - these 2 women are travelling together and say they have had no hassle in Iran, just a little flirting. They admit it helps to be Dutch=tall!
As it's Ashura I make do with a light self-provided supper and retire from the courtyard to my comfortable triple room where I sleep well. Albeit with earplugs in to mute the ongoing conversation.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Starting week 4...
I realise as I set off that I have been on the road for three weeks and done just short of 6,000 miles - my average mileage has rightly plummeted now I am in Iran because the focus is on experiencing the country and the people.
Last night was also notable because I met the first English tourist and the first Scrabble game - unsurprisingly they were linked!
Also I said farewell to 'imam' Alberto- you can see how he got his nickname! He is in fact Spanish and a retired English teacher, full of enthusiasm for Iran and all its sights.
The roads are quiet as it is Ashura but the petrol station is open and I am on my way by 8
Head into the hills to Meynand- we climb to 2500m before I attain this remote troglodyte village (or rather village of former troglodytes cave houses) which is thronged with people.
I am ambushed en route and given hot chocolate and buns! There is a car behind me so I ride off holding a paper cup of hot chocolate in my gob - not recommended!
I leave these nippers in. Ha the of the motorcycle
It's in the middle of Ashura celebrations which I observe respectfully but am soon dragged into the dancing (there is a video to follow in a later post - no comments on style please).
More on Ashura here:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ashura
I visit one of the caves- its inhabitants are there and welcome us in.
I am warned the bike may be tampered with but the boys seem to have guarded it faithfully. More importantly the bike has not fallen over on any of them!
Then off again, but I stop (as I promised myself I would) to photograph these lovely trees
Plus the usual fabulous mountains and lots of desert - it was hot!
It gets increasingly hot as I approach Yazd. I am stopped by police at a checkpoint but again it's a formality.
But again I am ambushed by a roadblock - of people handing out delicious hot meals to motorists. So I stop and much on some yummy beef and rice in a tasty sauce.
Getting into Yazd is interesting as I am lodging near the Masjed e Jameh which is the centre of the day's celebrating.
I overtake 2 parades, threading my way through pedestrians and horses!
When I ask for directions I am sent riding though the narrow alleys and winding lanes of the bazaar before eventually finding my residence.
There sat in the comfortable courtyard I meet (another) Dutch group - these 2 women are travelling together and say they have had no hassle in Iran, just a little flirting. They admit it helps to be Dutch=tall!
As it's Ashura I make do with a light self-provided supper and retire from the courtyard to my comfortable triple room where I sleep well. Albeit with earplugs in to mute the ongoing conversation.
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Simon, Life in all its' richness - thanks for sharing these wonderful experiences!
fantastic report...one of the best.
great stuff and thanks
what with this ride report and petcul's r.r. , Iran is a country to visit!
what with this ride report and petcul's r.r. , Iran is a country to visit!
That's for sure, de Crowe, especially as you have I think the right passport.
And thanks, wrinkleyowlie!
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And thanks, wrinkleyowlie!
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Thursday - rest day?
My first full day in Yazd,the Adobe city
The plan is for this to be a rest day. I join the dozen or so people around the big breakfast table, motley nations - Swiss, Roumanian, French, Dutch, Chinese and me - the solitary Irishman.
Two Dutch ladies arrive and ask if any of us want to 'go to Chak Chak'. My first answer is 'No' as I feel like a rest. Then my spirit of adventure kicks in. I check with my guide book that 'going to Chak Chak' is not a pseudonym for some nefarious activity and is something a happily married man of advanced years might undertake with propriety with two unknown ladies. Lonely Planet, my guide to etiquette in these situations in Iran, tells me it's a Zoroastrian temple set high in a cliff, and well worth the visit.
This is to be combined with a visit to Kharanak, an abandoned mud-built town, and Meybod, an old Adobe castle in another town.
All involve a drive in searing heat but as the photos show it was worthwhile way to spend the day.
And I got to ride in a new taxi which was nice despite the driver's reluctance to use the Aircon.
Our friendly but non-AC using driver
The car like many taxis had a CNG tank and a benzin tank. They are filled at separate stations and at CNG stations all the passengers are required to leave the car. That's not required at benzin stations since as we all know benzin is not combustible and everyone stands around smoking!?!
Karanak
With delightful pomegranates
Then on to Chak Chak - it's hot and sandy and I am quite glad not to be on the GS today. This is a Zoroastrian temple set into a steep mountainside
And the highlight is when our driver stops and buys us each a choc ice!
They we visit Meybod and the old castle followed by the ice house where in the past ice was made in the winter and stored through the blazing summers.
Great views over Meybod
The empty ice pit - I am tempted to ask for a ticket refund but decide against!
When I get back to Friendly House I am tired but still keen to explore so set off down the quiet lanes of the old city where I am staying.
Wandered the lanes, beautiful and calm apart from motorcycles whizzing by.I visit the Lari house where a wealthy trader lived. As I walk on from there I courteously say 'Salaam' to an older gentleman who responds in Farsi, addressing me as 'Hajji' - perhaps my beats has now attained Mecca-like credibility?
Then off to dinner at a traditional Persian restaurant which I had passed earlier - it is a wonderful and relaxing performance, lying/squatting on the carpeted divan and eating tasty food preceded by pomegranate tea and sunflower seeds:
The main course
And very highly perfumed and delicious ice cream to finish
Not a bad rest day if a bit more energetic that I envisaged in the morning! Will have to try harder tomorrow ...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My first full day in Yazd,the Adobe city
The plan is for this to be a rest day. I join the dozen or so people around the big breakfast table, motley nations - Swiss, Roumanian, French, Dutch, Chinese and me - the solitary Irishman.
Two Dutch ladies arrive and ask if any of us want to 'go to Chak Chak'. My first answer is 'No' as I feel like a rest. Then my spirit of adventure kicks in. I check with my guide book that 'going to Chak Chak' is not a pseudonym for some nefarious activity and is something a happily married man of advanced years might undertake with propriety with two unknown ladies. Lonely Planet, my guide to etiquette in these situations in Iran, tells me it's a Zoroastrian temple set high in a cliff, and well worth the visit.
This is to be combined with a visit to Kharanak, an abandoned mud-built town, and Meybod, an old Adobe castle in another town.
All involve a drive in searing heat but as the photos show it was worthwhile way to spend the day.
And I got to ride in a new taxi which was nice despite the driver's reluctance to use the Aircon.
Our friendly but non-AC using driver
The car like many taxis had a CNG tank and a benzin tank. They are filled at separate stations and at CNG stations all the passengers are required to leave the car. That's not required at benzin stations since as we all know benzin is not combustible and everyone stands around smoking!?!
Karanak
With delightful pomegranates
Then on to Chak Chak - it's hot and sandy and I am quite glad not to be on the GS today. This is a Zoroastrian temple set into a steep mountainside
And the highlight is when our driver stops and buys us each a choc ice!
They we visit Meybod and the old castle followed by the ice house where in the past ice was made in the winter and stored through the blazing summers.
Great views over Meybod
The empty ice pit - I am tempted to ask for a ticket refund but decide against!
When I get back to Friendly House I am tired but still keen to explore so set off down the quiet lanes of the old city where I am staying.
Wandered the lanes, beautiful and calm apart from motorcycles whizzing by.I visit the Lari house where a wealthy trader lived. As I walk on from there I courteously say 'Salaam' to an older gentleman who responds in Farsi, addressing me as 'Hajji' - perhaps my beats has now attained Mecca-like credibility?
Then off to dinner at a traditional Persian restaurant which I had passed earlier - it is a wonderful and relaxing performance, lying/squatting on the carpeted divan and eating tasty food preceded by pomegranate tea and sunflower seeds:
The main course
And very highly perfumed and delicious ice cream to finish
Not a bad rest day if a bit more energetic that I envisaged in the morning! Will have to try harder tomorrow ...
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And I think I promised a video of my contribution to 'Strictly ' - from 43 seconds on - I seem unable to edit it.
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Great R&R Simon...i think a lot people on here are now thinking,where to next for my hol,s...!!
Oops...computer says NO - will have to try again tomorrow!
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
And finally for today - driving in Iran. I mentioned earlier that my ride through the narrow lanes of the old city thronged with Ashura celebrants and actors on horseback was a little daunting on a fully loaded GS.
Well yesterday evening I spent a relaxing 10 minutes watching this chap for whom no gap is too narrow. These are in sequence if rather poor photography and I wonder if he is still there trying to get round that 90^ corner
Whilst on an automotive theme, I saw a rather fine Mack bus yesterday and Chevrolet car this morning, exceptions to the humdrum Peugeots and old Paykans (Hillman Hunters to me!)
And this fine warrior was so proud of his bike he was happy for me to photograph him with it;
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Well yesterday evening I spent a relaxing 10 minutes watching this chap for whom no gap is too narrow. These are in sequence if rather poor photography and I wonder if he is still there trying to get round that 90^ corner
Whilst on an automotive theme, I saw a rather fine Mack bus yesterday and Chevrolet car this morning, exceptions to the humdrum Peugeots and old Paykans (Hillman Hunters to me!)
And this fine warrior was so proud of his bike he was happy for me to photograph him with it;
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Brilliant.
I'm following this RR every day.
Thanks for sharing.
Take care.
I'm following this RR every day.
Thanks for sharing.
Take care.
Myke Rocks
Registered user
Be careful of whipped ice cream
In Iran. Some machines are not properly sterilised. The locals are immune to the bugs, but we from the West are not. 26 years on, I am still living with the consequences, though only on an occasional basis in recent years.
If it comes from a factory you are ok.
You commented earlier on the fact that you had not seen a motorcycle of over 125cc.
This is because, in the 1980s, big motorcycles were the the normal means of going to and from an assassination. The government banned anything over 125cc.
Myke
In Iran. Some machines are not properly sterilised. The locals are immune to the bugs, but we from the West are not. 26 years on, I am still living with the consequences, though only on an occasional basis in recent years.
If it comes from a factory you are ok.
You commented earlier on the fact that you had not seen a motorcycle of over 125cc.
This is because, in the 1980s, big motorcycles were the the normal means of going to and from an assassination. The government banned anything over 125cc.
Myke
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Jim, don't tempt me!
Have just arrived in Kashan and been greeted by this
which is very welcome after lots of this
And this
And this
Not to mention another brush with the law
It would be more helpful to post this at the point you join the motorway rather than when you are already on it!
Although a policeman gave me a long state as I shot by, the toll collector gave me a free ride - guess he didn't have a category for me!
The first police interaction of the day was rather better - I stopped to ask directions as I Left Yazd's old city (there were still Ashura road closures). The policeman insisted on giving me some delicious halva
Which I ate on the spot as it was not very transportable! Delicious and a reminder of the hospitality and sweet toothes of the Iranian people. The police were very keen to know what I thought of Iran from my visit and I was able to report favourably.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Have just arrived in Kashan and been greeted by this
which is very welcome after lots of this
And this
And this
Not to mention another brush with the law
It would be more helpful to post this at the point you join the motorway rather than when you are already on it!
Although a policeman gave me a long state as I shot by, the toll collector gave me a free ride - guess he didn't have a category for me!
The first police interaction of the day was rather better - I stopped to ask directions as I Left Yazd's old city (there were still Ashura road closures). The policeman insisted on giving me some delicious halva
Which I ate on the spot as it was not very transportable! Delicious and a reminder of the hospitality and sweet toothes of the Iranian people. The police were very keen to know what I thought of Iran from my visit and I was able to report favourably.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
