Oil information -

[Le singe]

With full cream milk or semi-skimmed?
Additives needed? Salt or sugar?
You must give full details as even the dealers haven't got this information!

 

[Larry]

You mean you have to put oil in the bloody thing as well! First petrol, then air (made the petrol very fizzy). Next you'll be saying I have to take the thing out of the garage and ride it now and then.

 

[delpel]

I'm in Cyprus and it's damn hot here in July/August. Most people ask if an oil/air cooled engine is OK in this heat. I just look at them blankly and say "i dunno )

I use 20/50w Repsol mineral oil because thats what the dealer uses and it's pretty cheap. Change it every 3000 miles.

Some one was talking about putting flushing oil in the GS I am rebuilding.
I ran the engine and drained the fresh army (OMD90) oil out and had some small metalic particles in the drain tub. I imagine there from the smashed front engine casing.

Would I be better running normal oil through a few times and keep draining it or bunging in thi flushing oil?

Reagrds and enjoy the sun where ever you are

Derek

 

[Captain Beaky]

Just noticed that noone has said not to use Synthetic oil until your bike's fully run in.

Used to use 10W40 - was OK, but a tad rattly when hot.

I'm running mine on 15W50 mineral now (can't remember brand - but it was sj rated, and very cheap) and engine much quieter
Does seem to crank a little slower when cold. But I don't thrash it from cold. Much quieter when hot though. I change oil/filter every 3000.

Talking about using the right oil - don't put 0W40 in your V8 (old) rangerover - it comes out everywhere!

 

[Steptoe]

if you want to flush your engine -

Add some TQF/TQX automatic gearbox fluid into your engine oil -run it for 20 mins - and hey presto, a sparklng clean engine -

also good for curing sticking starter clutches in K series engines

 

[Deleted account 220427002]

oh guru of thee slippery stuff please tell which oil thou would'st recommend for a gear box

 

[Steptoe]

oh guru of thee slippery stuff please tell which oil thou would'st recommend for a gear box

any reputable make , just make sure it's to GL5 spec

 

[delpel]

Steptoe,

I was more worried about getting any crap, bits aof ally swarf out etc. From my understanding the flushing oil is very thin and makes it's way through all the little nooks and crannies, opening up any clogged arteries so to speak.

How much auto gearbox oil are you recommending?

Derek

 

[pomm001]

Good thread but I an sure the debate will go on
I have a simplistic view:
Synthetic oil has basically been devloped to increase and extend the change period of the oil, my company car manual boasts up to 17000miles between changes..However, and ther is always an however, everthing you have ever learnt tells you if you do nothing else but change your oil and filter regually you wont go far wrong.
These engines use a bit of oil so ,i use a good quality mineral oil and change it regually,synthetic seems abit of an overkill and expensive ,not unless you want to extend oil changes

 

[Bilks]

more info.........



http://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/


Bilks.

 

[brady]

OILS

SHOULDNT YOU BE USEING A 20W50 IN SUMMER?? AS RECOMENDED.

 

[reaperhome]

Re: OILS

Originally posted by brady SHOULDNT YOU BE USEING A 20W50 IN SUMMER?? AS RECOMENDED.

Yes. You need an oil that's as thick as a 50 grade at operating temperatures. The only reason to use a XXW-40 is when you're riding a lot with very low temperatures.

20W-50 during summer, 10W-40 or something during winter. Or a 10W-50 all year round.

 

[oilman]

This is my first post here but I wrote all this technical articles above.

Regards
Simon

 

[Gas'd Off]

I wrote all this technical articles above

Well done man!

 

[newman7096]

Very informative post this..Keep it up.

 

[ROJAZ]

This is my first post here but I wrote all this technical articles above.

Have a look at the OPIE oil thread in ukgser offers section for info on Oilmans website and special offers to members of ukgser........

 

[oilman]

Just had a chance to read this thread properly.

According to my database the correct oils for most models are

Engine 15w-50.
Gearbox 80w-90 GL5

What you need to understand is that oils are recommended based on the higher number, the sae spec which is in this case sae 50 or in technical terms a viscosity of 18cst at 100degC.

The "w" number is the cold crank viscosity and the lower the number the better the oil will flow at cold start (especially in the winter) which means less long term wear. Around 90% of all wear occurs when cold because the oil is very viscous and more friction is present.

Personally I would consider the use of either a 15w-50 or a 10w-50 for better cold start performance.

The technical numbers are as follows:

Visc at..........0degC........10degC......40degC........100degC

10W/50..........1039...........539..........117.............18..
15W/50..........1376...........675..........130.............18..

What this demonstrates is that the 10w-50 is less viscous at lower temps but is the same at 100degC.

The synthetic debate is a complicated one so I will post something another time but synthetics aren't just there for longer drain periods (although they stay in grade longer) but they are more thermally stable and take a lot more punishment than mineral and semi-synthetic oils.

The main advantage is uniform molecules which mean they cool better and cope with heat better and if ester is included they have the benefit of being polar (electrostatically attracted to metal surfaces) and therfore this means that a protective layer is there at all times, even during that crucial start-up period.

This helps to protect cams, gears, piston rings and valve train components, where lubrication is “boundary” rather than “hydrodynamic”, i.e. a very thin non-pressure fed film has to hold the surface apart. Even crank bearings benefit at starts, stops or when extreme shock loads upset the “hydrodynamic” film.

I'm a big fan of synthetics so long as the correct grades are used.

Cheers
Simon

 

[Greg Masters]

oilman, I'd be really interested to learn more!

Greg

 

[GTinOz]

.. I am going to get shot down in flames by BMW purists, but so be it.

I use powdered tungsten disulphide, mixed with Mobil GL6 synthetic gear oil in the gearbox and diff.

Before everybody throws their hands in the air, and run screaming from the room, let me explain. Currently in our summer, one of the hottest on record, our daytime temp. has been exceeding 44deg.C. This makes the road temp up in the high 50's to 60's C. (or hotter).

Now, we use mix Tungsten Disulphide with the gear oil, of our farm machinery, and previously, for example, the right angle drive gearbox on our slasher, after being used for 8 hours constantly on a 40deg.C day, got so hot, it melted the little plastic sight glass.

After mixing Tungsten Disulphide with the oil, it runs about 20degC cooler (according to a infared temp. tester).

Since using it in the GS, I have noticed the gearbox and diff, being a little quieter, on extremly hot days.

I am not recomending everybody rush out and add it to their gearbox, but to save from explaining what it does, do a search on google, there are plenty of references as to suppliers, and what it does.

But, in the long run, it is MY bike, and I will do with it what I want.

Regards GT (ps. DO NOT mix it with engine oil)

 

[Gas'd Off]

What % of Tungsten Disulphide to gear oil do you use then GTinOz?