Oil Leak.

[GedJack]

Right folks after much looking and checking things, I have managed to find the source of my oily left boot when riding my new 1150. I now just need to know how to sort it.

The best way to describe its location is if you look were the exhaust manifold goes into the head, the oil is coming for in there somewhere.

I have took a picture of it and if anyone can offer a solution to fix this annoying problem I can email the picture to them.

Any ideas ???

 

[drinu64]

Head gasket

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[GedJack]

Head gasket

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Thanks for that, is it a big job to do ?
Also just noticed when you remove the plug cap on that side there is oil in the tunnel. The other side is dry.

 

[Welshman]

Thanks for that, is it a big job to do ?
Also just noticed when you remove the plug cap on that side there is oil in the tunnel. The other side is dry.

There is a seal at the bottom of that tunnel cheap and easy to replace (OEM only), that is your first place to start...

 

[GedJack]

There is a seal at the bottom of that tunnel cheap and easy to replace (OEM only), that is your first place to start...

Yes, found that, going to order one tomorrow.

The previous owner has had the head off to have them vapour blasted. Just wondering if the head bolts need torquing up properly.
Is this easy enough to do before I start taking it to bits ?

 

[beemer pimp]

If it's head gasket just retorque head bolts and you should be good , I had same problem

 

[drinu64]

Could also be the seal of the plug where the plug goes through the top cover.

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[Madmountainman]

Take the valve head off and look on the inside of the cover, where the spark plug enters the head. There should be a chunky little rubber seal. If it's not there, it'll be stuck inside the tunnel and you'll need to pop it out, your finger will do.
Take a look for any deformation and, if in any doubt, buy a new one. Smear the new one with some fresh oil and stick it on the valve cover, not in the tunnel and carefully push the cover back on the head. Do the four screws up carefully until they just bite (this is a touchy feel thing and if you use a small socket driver with torx head you'll feel the bite point more easily than with a 3/8th or 1/2") and you're good to go. You can use a torque wrench, but i have heard of some screws being damaged using one and i've never had a problem using the old school method.
Given your symptoms, that's the most likely culprit but, as you've mentioned it's your left boot, the oil sight glass can sometimes leak as well, though not with sufficient oil to coat your boot.

 

[GedJack]

Before I go for a new head gasket I am going to re torque the bolts.
Just been reading the Carl salter GS manual and it mentions something about a "wrench angle ".

Do I need any special tools or can I just do this with my torque wrench ?

 

[Karlread]

Torque wrench, but then you tighten a further 90 degrees I believe but check the manual.

 

[MattW]

Torque wrench, but then you tighten a further 90 degrees I believe but check the manual.

Initial torque then a further 180 degrees in two 90 degree steps - it's in the manual.

When replacing the rocker cover put the tunnel seal on the tunnel in the cover (not in the head) and fit the cover in one motion. If you have to pull it away or jiggle it to fit them remove it completely, refit the tunnel seal and start again (it's very easy to dislodge the tunnel seal so it doesn't fit properly).

The rocker cover bolts bottom out against the shoulder on the bolt. You can feel this happen as you screw them home - you'll feel the seal compress slightly and then they'll 'harden up' as the shoulder meets the head. Beyond this point you just need enough extra torque to stop them coming undone - cranking them down harder won't make the rocker cover seal better, it'll just strip the threads out of the head (easy to do with little screws like that). There is a torque for these in the manual but it's very low. Unless you've got a little low range 1/"4 drive torque wrench, I'd just do them by feel. In fact unless you're really ham fisted, I'd do them by feel anyway - use a standard Allen key and don't use your little finger (keep it extended 'posh cup of tea' style - improves 'feel' and limits the torque you can apply).

 

[GedJack]

The

Initial torque then a further 180 degrees in two 90 degree steps - it's in the manual.

When replacing the rocker cover put the tunnel seal on the tunnel in the cover (not in the head) and fit the cover in one motion. If you have to pull it away or jiggle it to fit them remove it completely, refit the tunnel seal and start again (it's very easy to dislodge the tunnel seal so it doesn't fit properly).

The rocker cover bolts bottom out against the shoulder on the bolt. You can feel this happen as you screw them home - you'll feel the seal compress slightly and then they'll 'harden up' as the shoulder meets the head. Beyond this point you just need enough extra torque to stop them coming undone - cranking them down harder won't make the rocker cover seal better, it'll just strip the threads out of the head (easy to do with little screws like that). There is a torque for these in the manual but it's very low. Unless you've got a little low range 1/"4 drive torque wrench, I'd just do them by feel. In fact unless you're really ham fisted, I'd do them by feel anyway - use a standard Allen key and don't use your little finger (keep it extended 'posh cup of tea' style - improves 'feel' and limits the torque you can apply).

Cheers Matt thanks,
I'm getting on it on Sat, hopefully that will sort the leak and it won't need a new gasket.

 

[beemer pimp]

Initial torque then a further 180 degrees in two 90 degree steps - it's in the manual.

When retorque head : do one bolt at time
a) Do one head nut at a time, X-cross fashion
i) Loosen nut
ii) Tighten to 15 ft/lbs, 15mm socket
iii) Tighten 180°
b) Repeat for all 4 Head Nuts
c) Unfasten and retighten M10 bolt, 8mm, to 30 ft/lbs