Ok then what's the current thinking

I think these settings were recommended to me in a conversation about the difficulty in getting an airhead to idle at 800 rpm. Do you think these settings could lead to long term problems?
 
If I could remember them I'm sure some of the best conversations I've had have been on licensed premises. I'm equally sure that my contribution to these conversations was highly intelligent and extremely witty. Oh, and I also got more attractive to the opposite sex as the night progressed:):):toungincheek:toungincheek
 
i have a genuine R80G/S (1983 i think) rider's handbook here which gives the valve clearances as 0.1 IN and 0.15 EX so i can't see much problem with your figures.

bmw seem to have been changed the specs later to the more familiar figures kenny gives, so maybe they did see a problem?
 
the official workshop manual gives .15 & .20, for the first 1K, and then .10 & .15 from then on...

Right I have now done the first part of my fettlin out in the street, amongst the flotsom and jetsom of a Sunday morning in a town full of festivalites. First was to swap out the ICU, for the one Rob gave me, thanks again Rob. Then it was the valve adjustment. I found the offside head needed torquing (that was the one I did down in Devon :augie ) but the nearside was fine, but I did find that all the valves were tight, and all needed adjusting

I used Kenny's numbers for the valves.

Right off out for a little ride to get some oil, then time for an oil change:thumb
 
valve clearances

10 inlet and 20 exhaust
this is the best , dont change it :rob

Steve :oonyack
 
Last edited:
Kev,

Did you put the original main jet back in. I remember you saying you'd gone to a 150.

The original jetting in 83 was:-

Main jet - 145
Needle jet - 2.64
Needle nos 46 - 241
Needle position - 4th slot
Starting jet - 60
Idle jet - 45

Again from the 83 g/s manual

upto 1000km
Inlet 0.15
Exhaust 0.20

After 1000km
inlet 0.10
exhaust 0.15

Later thinking was clickey valves were happy valves and it went to 0.10 and 0.20. I always run mine at 0.17 on the exhaust and check them twice as often.
 
No Rob, I have stuck with the 150 main, plugs are a nice colour now, and she seems to run pretty good, so I think I will stick with that size for a while, it also looks like the stutter may have gone now, after doing the fettlin today.:thumb2
 
The cylinder studs pull out easily , so go easy with the torque wrench- DAHIK.

You are probably safer with 24 / 25 ft lbs than 28, and the top ones with the oil feed in them are the ones to be extra careful with.

Be very careful as you slacken them off that you have the pistons at TDC and both rockers are free on the side you are working on. Then if you are only doing the valves dont slacken the two short studs which go into the barrels, or at least slacken them last.

Most torque values are given for clean dry threads so if you have slackened the nuts off clean and dry them and pull the down in stages 3 lbs at a time.

Anybody got a cheap stud rethreading jig the want to sell ?

I managed to pull the threads just by slackening them in the wrong order!
 
Whoa Beemerboff
You've just managed to make routine maintenance very scary:eek::eek::eek:

I have a strong history of tightening things just a poofteenth too much!
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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