Optimate or what?

That's the same as any charger - you can have a duff cell and the battery will look fully charged, but it will fail when cranking. All the green light is telling you is that the battery charging voltage has reached the appropriate level the charging current is behaving the right way. There is no way that any battery CHARGER can tell you that you have a duff cell - you need to do a DISCHARGE test to find that out. You can do a discharge test in a couple of ways, the first is to go to a motor factors and to get them to load test it, and the other one is to just try and start the bike - as you have found.

Spot on.

No battery charger (whatever their marketing informations says) is clever enough to spot reduced capacity due to a failed cell or spulphation. Once you've flattened a lead acid battery, you've irredeemably reduced its capacity. No fancy charger will recover this lost capacity - once it's gone, it's gone forever. The charger just charges normally until it's charged to the new reduced capacity and gives you a little green light to say it's done its job (which it has - your knackered battery with its reduced capacity has accepted all the charge it can).

You can often get away with this reduced capacity with no ill effects until the battery is otherwise challenged (lot's of short journeys which don't give the alternator chance to replenish the starting loads, cold weather, the previous in combination with lots of accessories, etc).

The secret to prolonging battery life is to store it charged and on a float charge if left for any length of time (even with no load, batteries self-discharge over time). Lead acid batteries love being fully charged and hate deep discharge - the rule of thumb for a lead acid battery is that you should never discharge it to more than half its capacity - hard to tell on a bike and pretty difficult due to the battery really being smaller than is ideal.

But the really golden rule is don't flatten it. Ever. Once you have, you've stuffed it.
 
The battery in question was a lead acid. but it never did go flat. In fact it never got anywhere near the point where 'starting' was a problem.

No... the problem was purely with the ABS.

I'm sure that if I had carried on then the battery would eventually have died altogether.. but how far off that was. I don't know.

Thing is, I knew it was the battery at fault, despite the optimate saying otherwise.

Other tossers might think the problem was elsewhere and start butchering the ABS system itself trying to fix a problem thats not there in the first place.

Its too easy to be taken in by the spiel from optimate. see that green light and think alls fine and dandy.
 
No... the problem was purely with the ABS.

You didn't say that! :blast

ABS failing to set is a well-known problem on older bikes. When I bought a new R1100GS in 1999, I was warned about the ABS not setting as the dealer wheeled the bike out of te showroom.

Broadly, if the battery is 100% charged, the ABS will set OK. If it's only 99.99% charged, the ABS may not set.

Leaving the bike on an Optimate 24/7 does help with this. My ABS rarely fails to set.

Greg
 
You didn't say that! :blast

ABS failing to set is a well-known problem on older bikes. When I bought a new R1100GS in 1999, I was warned about the ABS not setting as the dealer wheeled the bike out of te showroom.

Broadly, if the battery is 100% charged, the ABS will set OK. If it's only 99.99% charged, the ABS may not set.

Leaving the bike on an Optimate 24/7 does help with this. My ABS rarely fails to set.

Greg

Yes I did.

In fact I repeat this sorry little tale every time the subject comes up. People seem to think Optimates are cure-alls. OPTIMATE themselves like to think so.

they're not.

I've gone back to the OEM Exide... so none of this is an issue anymore. the bike does the charging. the Optimate stays in the cupboard. I see no reason to connect it.
 
Use an ordinary lead/acid battery and an Optimate wheneven you're not riding the bike.

Might be worth adding that I've also an original lead/acid battery & it needs topping up with demin water about every 4-5 months if I leave it constantly on the optimate.

Bit of a pig of a job on my RT as all the plastics & fuel tank has to come off just to top the battery up :(
 
Just bought a CTEK charger and oddysey battery from motorworks as they reccomended the both due to the fact I only travel 2 journeys of 2.5 miles on my bike per day during the working week.

The CTEK was reccomended by them for the oddysey as long as it was on the frost setting - something which they could not emphasise enough - and to be fair if you read the CTEK manual it does say that setting to be used for oddysey type batteries.

Tom
 
My 3-year-old Oddysey battery has been attached to an Optimate 3 for every day of its happy little life. It still works :nenau
 
I've used Optimate for the last 10+ years on different bikes/cars/quad etc (I have four of them now, they all work as they should even the oldest one)

never had a problem with them :nenau

My FireBlade is still on Original battery (2000 model bike) :thumb2 and still holds a charge if I forget to switch the Optimate on :blast

I swear by them :beerjug:
 
I have used one for a number of years without problems. When I bought aOdyssey battery I found it would sometimes just go on red, faulty battery mode. It does not like charging low Odyssey batteries, again showing red and not charging the battery. I believe this was corre ted with the optimate 4 so If your after one best get the later model.
 
I've always used a what?. They come highly recommended.

I have an optimate but now use a NOT.


The bike has stood for weeks on end when I've been out of the country... it has an OE GEL battery and no alarm.. so doesn't lose any charge. or if it does, its so slight as to have no effect on, in particular the ABS self test.

As far as I'm concerned the gadget is largely redundant.. its not been used since last january and the last lot of snow. And then only as a glorified voltmeter. I plugged it in and within an hour or so was showing a green light. ie the battery didn't need any charge. Not bothered with it since.
 
Just to add to the debate....
I now use a US made 'Battery Tender'. I have always used some sort of trickle charger because of the propensity for bike batteries to be bestowed with minimal life/cranking amps. Unlike some posters, I've found that the constant drain of the clock on my RID drains the battery.
Whilst a PITA, I'm happy to remove the battery and charge it off the bike, as I have no power to my garage. does take some of the spontaneity out of riding, but during the Summer, I may consider an extension lead....
Bizarrely, two of my previous chargers - Optimate and Accumate - once had the effect of draining the battery on my old Fireblade, when left on trickle charge. Reading previous posts, it sounds as though my battery may already have been irritrievably damaged.
 
optimates arnt needed if you look after your battery properly....

odyssey is old hat,
these shorai are good,infact more than good.. i have one on my bike,
very good cold start/ capability, and holds a charge for a long time,
check out the weight savings too,,, you wont get ANYTHING lighter!check the weights at the end,
bigger batterys offer an even bigger weight saving..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69mWwmFkJRQ&feature=player_embedded


this guy could prob send em, he,s a good guy and doesnt rip people off http://kwickstand.net/Hyper-Formance.com/Shorai_Batteries.html
 
, I've found that the constant drain of the clock on my RID drains the battery.
.

Pull fuse 3. Stops any drain and can be left for months.

My "proper" GS has stood since march in an unheated garage with the fuse removed and no charger attached, and today it started up after a couple of cranks. :thumb
 
optimates arnt needed if you look after your battery properly....

odyssey is old hat,
these shorai are good,infact more than good.. i have one on my bike,
very good cold start/ capability, and holds a charge for a long time,
check out the weight savings too,,, you wont get ANYTHING lighter!check the weights at the end,
bigger batterys offer an even bigger weight saving..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69mWwmFkJRQ&feature=player_embedded


this guy could prob send em, he,s a good guy and doesnt rip people off http://kwickstand.net/Hyper-Formance.com/Shorai_Batteries.html

we are on about the lightweight gs:augie:augie

with the average sized rider:mmmm

stick with an optimate:thumb2
 
Thanks Steptoe....
Fuse 3 it is :thumb

I've always found that, unlike cars, the constant drain of a digital bike clock, even though minimal, drains a battery in quick time.

With the cold we get in the middle of Dartmoor, I'll be able to test if the battery is ok.

all I need now is a local to service her.
 
we are on about the lightweight gs:augie:augie

with the average sized rider:mmmm

stick with an optimate:thumb2
not really, i was more on about the cold cranking power and how long it holds a charge,
but theres plenty on here who indulges in the futile attempt at lightening
a bike the weight of a coal barge too.....
:D
 


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