Para drive shaft

PW Cymru

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I take it if the Para drive shaft UV joint knuckles are out of phase the shaft if knackered?

If so whats the best option for replacement/repair?
 
I take it if the Para drive shaft UV joint knuckles are out of phase the shaft if knackered?

If so whats the best option for replacement/repair?
I am sure someone with greater knowledge than me will come along but there are these available
http://www.bmwboxersupplies.com/drive-shaft-with-greas-nipple-p-140.html
Or I had new UJ fitted to my driveshaft at the local car repair propshaft specialist he reckons there is nothing special just different to car parts but readily available.
 
Henderson engineering in the states do a rebuild with greasable/replaceable ujs and 3 options of silicon to replace the rubber :thumb2
 
Thanks guys, it's not the UJ's that have failed it's the damper between the front and rear sections which has allowed the shaft to twist slightly.

The UJ's front to rear should be in alignment but mine have clearly twisted so I'd need the damper replacing as well.
 
I was sure I read on here that they came out of the factory like that so I haven't worried about miine. Have a look on airheads on adv rider as there has been a bit of debate & feedback re rebuilt & new ds'
 
i think the figure for misalignment is something like 15 degs ( i may be way out cant remember):D
Hendersons are the only people i know who will replace the rubber:D.
 
you could always replace the damper your self linky I have not looked at it in tha last 2 years but it still seems to be holding together despite me riding like a plonker some times :D
 
£240 from motorworks as a recon unit. I'm not sure having a grease nipple on the UJ is of much importance ( can't do any harm though ) as the damage is mainly done by the angle of attack of the shaft to the gearbox ( hence why road paralever versions are uber reliable ).
 
i think the figure for misalignment is something like 15 degs ( i may be way out cant remember):D
Hendersons are the only people i know who will replace the rubber:D.

Bumpmuncher and a few of the guys on advrider have had the Henderson shafts fail so I'd be wary of going down that route.
 
Tempting fate I know but my bike, which embaraasingly has been on SORN for 2 years now, has nearly 70,000 miles on the original shaft.

It has however had one set of new crankcases, four indicator flasher relays, three clutch pushrod bearings and 173 of those rear rubber exhaust mounting bobbins.
 
Mines done a shade under 67,000 miles and also on the original shaft but has had a weeping output shaft seal for ages so runs slightly wet...not sure if this has prolonged its life?


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Mines done a shade under 67,000 miles and also on the original shaft but has had a weeping output shaft seal for ages so runs slightly wet...not sure if this has prolonged its life?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Mines the same 92000 Km and on the original but had a fair bit of oil from the box in the Para housing and wonder if that prolongs the life of the shaft ,
 
my GS PD has 122k on it and the driveshaft is fine. Like Padmei I am in NZ. Must cause we is downunder and the water goes down the plug hole the other way we ant had any issues.

Mine was apart about 50k ago and wasout of alignment about 15 degrees. Put it back in and still going fine
 
Tempting fate I know but my bike, which embaraasingly has been on SORN for 2 years now, has nearly 70,000 miles on the original shaft.

It has however had one set of new crankcases, four indicator flasher relays, three clutch pushrod bearings and 173 of those rear rubber exhaust mounting bobbins.

Wrong assembly... :augie
 
Tell me about it:mad:..they need to be a bit more :weights and 10mm longer.....and not make of chocolate !!:rob

Like this then;)

strongmount.jpg


You can get a spanner on the male and female halves to tighten the appropriate nut so you don't destroy it as you install it. :thumb
 


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