Paralever bearing question

[<<Mark_C>>]

There has been a little bit of play in my rear wheel for a while now. There is no noticeable notchyness in the up and down movement of the rear drive and the the slight play has not got any worse for many miles but I thought I would check, grease and adjust the bearings to be on the safe side.

Things are now apart and the bearings look to be OK with no missing or damaged rollers and no marks on the inner races. However, on the fixed (outer) pivot side, the inner race does not want to detach from the pivot itself. It rotates on the pivot bolt easily, and can move about 1mm towards the end of the bolt, but no more. On the adjustable side, the inner race came off the pivot and stayed in place within bearing rollers.

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Is this normal? Is any heat or excessive force normally needed to remove the inner race from the pivot? Could this mean the bearing had seized and has been rotating on the pivot bolt itself?

Cheers

 

[Ian J Hartley]

There has been a little bit of play in my rear wheel for a while now. There is no noticeable notchyness in the up and down movement of the rear drive and the the slight play has not got any worse for many miles but I thought I would check, grease and adjust the bearings to be on the safe side.

Things are now apart and the bearings look to be OK with no missing or damaged rollers and no marks on the inner races. However, on the fixed (outer) pivot side, the inner race does not want to detach from the pivot itself. It rotates on the pivot bolt easily, and can move about 1mm towards the end of the bolt, but no more. On the adjustable side, the inner race came off the pivot and stayed in place within bearing rollers.

[/URL][/IMG]

Is this normal? Is any heat or excessive force normally needed to remove the inner race from the pivot? Could this mean the bearing had seized and has been rotating on the pivot bolt itself?

Cheers

I would think that that is probably likely, but you won't know until you can get the bearing off the pivot pin and see the damage/wear if any.

The bearing is steel, the pivot pin is Aluminium.

Ian

 

[<<Mark_C>>]

Thanks Ian. I managed to borrow a small puller this evening which brought the race off the pinion with minimal effort.

There is no noticeable wear in the pinion. I think a bit of loctite may have found its way between the race and the pinion sticking them together. Now wiped over with some brake cleaner the race slips on and off the pinion with ease.

Now its fully disassembled, there is a slight graunchy feel to the outer bearing when compared to the inner so at just shy of 50,000 miles I think its about time for replacements.

I might give the Motorworks "upgrade" kit a try. Any longer term feedback from others on this yet?

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Thanks Ian. I managed to borrow a small puller this evening which brought the race off the pinion with minimal effort.

There is no noticeable wear in the pinion. I think a bit of loctite may have found its way between the race and the pinion sticking them together. Now wiped over with some brake cleaner the race slips on and off the pinion with ease.

Now its fully disassembled, there is a slight graunchy feel to the outer bearing when compared to the inner so at just shy of 50,000 miles I think its about time for replacements.

I might give the Motorworks "upgrade" kit a try. Any longer term feedback from others on this yet?

There is at least one on this forum who has them fitted. A guy with the tag Slipperyeel. I think he rates them better than the OEM bearings. I'm sure he will be along soon to post. If not you could do a search.

Paralever bearings is a well researched and much discussed topic.

Ian

 

[Slipperyeel]

Hi Mark C

Ian is right, i fitted the Motorworks 'Upgrade kit'. I was prepping the bike last summer for a trip to Italy and ended up doing a little more than i expected! But it was worth it.

You can see my post here: http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/404003-Drive-shaft-check

Your races look better than mine did as you will see. The upgrad kit is good quality. Only time will tell if they are actually an upgrade, but so far no complaints (only 7-8k since the summer :-/).

You've half done the job by the look of it . Some of my logic was cost. The upgrade kit is well priced compared to the needle rollers from BMW. Therefore i thought that even if you have to replace them again in just 25-30k miles, it will still have been cheaper. But then my expectation is they will exceed that!

The only thing you'll need is some way to hold the adjustable pin while you tighten the locking nut... Lots of posts on tht, including my own