paralever bearings need adjusting?

[Michael R1150GS Adventure]

just been replacing my rear shocker and have been keeping an eye on the 'looseness' my rear wheel continues to develop.
It has slack in both 12-6 and 3-9 oclock directions ie all over!

It is noticeably more now and I am thinking is this the main bearing or the paralever rollers?
i have done a search on both above but the only thing that came up was the sticky that steptoe kindly put on the forum.

Any advice on whether I should just get out the big socket and adjust the paralevers again, or should I step away and give it to a man who can? I'm mechanically ok but just dont want to destroy the paralever bearings! got to take SWMBO to france in August...

 

[Canuck]

If you have a heat gun it is easy to do... you just have to be brave and go for it. There are quite a few posts about it on here and over on adv rider... you could also invest in a clymer manual though the information and advice on here will be better.

Go for it and if you run into any snags just post up a question or two and people will chip in to help you out i'm sure.

DId you try to wiggle the wheel with the rear brake on?

 

[Michael R1150GS Adventure]

aye thanks
yes i have already heated uo and released the bolt - but i bottled it once i had turned it about a quarter turn!
just put it all back together, sweating in case i had over turned it,,, ha ha

i think i just need to get back in there this afternoon and get it adjusted again.
Yeah i still have movement with the back brake on, which i understand means the main bearing is not to fault?

 

[Canuck]

If it was the big bearing in the FD then it would will wiggle with the brake on methinks. Haha... go for it!

for backup... http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=479347

 

[Michael R1150GS Adventure]

SOUND - thanks - just tried again on the crappy search function here, little luck
perhaps im a dick

wish me luck

 

[Canuck]

good luck

 

[Canuck]

just a thought... don't forget to strap up that centre stand to the front wheel!

 

[Michael R1150GS Adventure]

yep - i didnt do that once and the bike fell onto me, trapped me right under it

i was definitely a dick then

 

[B4ndit]

If I can do it anyone can. Go for it.

The new bearings were around £50 from BMW. I got it all in bits one night. On the second day got one bearing out myself and had the second taken out at a dealers for an offered tenner. Put it all back together on the third day.

Approx 2 months later I had to readjust the bearing after it had bedded in.

 

[Beemerman59]

I have just replaced one of the paralever pivot bearings on my K1100 which I think are very similar if not the same. If the pivot pins have not been undone before you will need heat on both sides to loosen the thread lock BMW use in assembly - I broke two hex head sockets with a breaker bar first time I tried to do it without heat. Changing the bearing is simple as you can drift them out from each side, if I remember a 20mm socket is the right size to drift it out and a 24mm to tap in the new one. Put the new one in the freezer before you tap that in. £27 each from Motorworks.

 

[Canuck]

Re: price for bearing/rollers.... I tend to find my mail dealer (Ocean) is typically cheaper for parts than the notable aftermarket suppliers... expect for fuel filters, air filters, clutch parts and brake pads. Its worth trying both!

 

[Michael R1150GS Adventure]

cheers everyone

quick question - when you have taken the casing off from the swingarm, was it tricky to get the shaft bck together ie the splines

 

[Uncle Rob]

it can be,shove a rag under the drive shaft to lift it up but make sure you leave some hanging out of the arm other wise you wont get it back

 

[flatdog]

cheers everyone

quick question - when you have taken the casing off from the swingarm, was it tricky to get the shaft bck together ie the splines

Why do you want to seperate the rear end, if all you are doing is the swing arm bearings. Change each one seperately that way the assembly stays in 1 piece. Do each side up loose then torque them up when ready.

 

[Canuck]

I used a long screw driver to help guide the two bits back together...I think it took me a good 40 minutes the first time!

 

[Welshman]

Why do you want to seperate the rear end, if all you are doing is the swing arm bearings. Change each one seperately that way the assembly stays in 1 piece. Do each side up loose then torque them up when ready.

I put a rag under the spline to hold it up with a piece hanging out, once it just pull the rag out

 

[Michael R1150GS Adventure]

Why do you want to seperate the rear end, if all you are doing is the swing arm bearings. Change each one seperately that way the assembly stays in 1 piece. Do each side up loose then torque them up when ready.

good question.
I want to be prepared in case the bearing casings have gone and the bearings drop out all over the place and i need to take it all to bits...

 

[MikeP]

Why do you want to seperate the rear end, if all you are doing is the swing arm bearings. Change each one seperately that way the assembly stays in 1 piece. Do each side up loose then torque them up when ready.

I thought that this was about the Paralever pivots, not the swing-arm?

 

[Michael R1150GS Adventure]

I thought that this was about the Paralever pivots, not the swing-arm?

oh yeah he referred to swing arm for some reason...

i am adusting my paralevers firstly, then if they are screwed, i'm asking about how to take the rear drive casing off and if that comes with any huge issues.
Obviously i have read the bmw maintenance workshop book on it, but just askign in case it isnt all as easy as it looks in the book.

cheers folks

 

[Michael R1150GS Adventure]

and its done

spot on, less than half a turn and everything tightened back up nicely.
New shock and now a back end that dont wiggle.