Paralever or final drive bearing?

[topcat2006]

Hi,

I wonder if someone can help. I have some movement in my rear wheel if you grip it at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock and move horizontally (not rotationally). At 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock if you try the same no play. You can occasionally feel a graunching when riding.

I've read various posts about these bearings and think it's the paralever bearing - can anyone else make a diagnosis?

From what I read if it is the paralever bearing there seems to be some success in adjusting?

If it's final drive it's a bearing and seal replace?

Thanks for your help

Tom

 

[dancata]

Have someone else push the rear brake; if the play is still there, you need new needle bearings or bronze bushings; if the play is gone, it's the big bearing gone bad.

I might know someone who makes bronze bushings

 

[Steptoe]

I've read various posts about these bearings and think it's the paralever bearing - can anyone else make a diagnosis?

Bare in mind only one person can make a 100% correct diagnosis. The person with the part in front of him , anyone else is just having an educated guess.

If you're not sure just adjust/tighten the paralever bearing and see if the play disappears.

Then as well as finding out 100% what the problem is/was the chances are you'd also have fixed it at the same time.

 

[topcat2006]

Thanks for the replies:

Steptoe - you are absolutely right but it's having the confidence to make that judgement when it is a system which is alien to you - give me a process line in Kelloggs at Manchester and I would have made that call straight away. I like to listen to other peoples opinions and advice too as that is how you learn. Yes, there is another side to the coin in that if you are a service provider then essentially you are selling that knowledge and advice and you don't really want to give it for free......

I have played about tonight with the paralever bearing and tightened it about 2/3 turn and the play is gone. All it took was a 12mm Allen key (difficult) and a heat gun to loosen the loctite.

I have also ordered a main bearing and seal just in case - from the posts on here about failures it might pay to have one on stock anyway - and really they are not that expensive. I might even have a look at it this weekend.

dancata - thank you for your offer and if the adjustment has not cured it I will PM you and see if you can provide what I need.

Regards

Tom

 

[dancata]

If the play comes from the needle bearings and you only adjust them, it will come back shortly.

I can only communicate via email; I might get banned for doing this, but what the hack...

 

[Steptoe]

If the play comes from the needle bearings and you only adjust them, it will come back shortly.

No it won't - It'll will only reappear if they are damaged. If they aren't damaged carry on.

My bike is still on the originals at 60K miles, needed minor adjustement twice in that time.

 

[dancata]

True... but if the bearings are preloaded from factory, using the loctite and all, the pivot does not come loose.

However, the play appears at some mileage. Sooner or later. Why?

I have changed them on some bikes, and in all cases, the inner race had the wear from the needles impregnated in them.

 

[Steptoe]

True... but if the bearings are preloaded from factory, using the loctite and all, the pivot does not come loose.

However, the play appears at some mileage. Sooner or later. Why?

I have changed them on some bikes, and in all cases, the inner race had the wear from the needles impregnated in them.

Mine get greased yearly, a 15 minute job and you don't even have to remove the wheel

If they aren't maintained they dry out and get damaged.

 

[dancata]

Can you please share what you have done for this job?

Preety please...

 

[Steptoe]

Can you please share what you have done for this job?

Preety please...

Greased them - what more is there to share

 

[dancata]

Greased them - what more is there to share

You said you don't have to remove the rear wheel.

I thought you installed a grease nipple ore something, but I guess you just install the pivots without locktite and use a extender to get them out one at a time, trough the spokes.

 

[topcat2006]

Just been into BVM to pick up my bearing and seal. I was chatting to the mechanic about it and he reckons you can't grease the paralever bearings.

His reason was that it you pulled the bolt out the bearing would drop?

Is this the case? I'm presuming if St. Eptoe says it can be done then that is gospel and it is a case of undoing the lock nut, withdrawing the bolt, greasing and then re-assembling?

Thanks

Tom

 

[Welshman]

Just been into BVM to pick up my bearing and seal. I was chatting to the mechanic about it and he reckons you can't grease the paralever bearings.

His reason was that it you pulled the bolt out the bearing would drop?

Is this the case? I'm presuming if St. Eptoe says it can be done then that is gospel and it is a case of undoing the lock nut, withdrawing the bolt, greasing and then re-assembling?

Thanks

Tom

Drop where? it is how you assemble it anyway??? Mech is a toss

 

[Wrigsby1]

In reply to orig Q my way of checking my pivot bearings is to take the back wheel off, undo the parallel bar bolt and then feel for notchness as you move the bevel though its arc.

As notchiness is the reason for the bearings needing replacing and is probably the reason for 90%+ of us feeling play, then this is an easy check.

It's amazing how better the standard shock feels on new pivot bearings. If you leave it your back end will wallow more and more (ooh,er!).

Check takes 15 mins tops if you are used to using spanners.

 

[Steptoe]

Just been into BVM to pick up my bearing and seal. I was chatting to the mechanic about it and he reckons you can't grease the paralever bearings.

His reason was that it you pulled the bolt out the bearing would drop?

Dear oh dear.

 

[topcat2006]

As an update just stripped the bolts out holding the paralever bearings in (Plenty of heat and patience on the r/h side!) and the outer races are worn with indents of the needle bearings. I had planned on just greasing and putting back together but now I know they are like this I will have to change them.

Have though about the bushes but I am going to go with bearings again as after all I am sure if BMW had meant there to be bushes they would have fitted them especially given the reduced cost of bushings.

Thanks all for the help - I'm finally getting my confidence to do things on this bike!


Tom

 

[Steptoe]

As an update just stripped the bolts out holding the paralever bearings in (Plenty of heat and patience on the r/h side!) and the outer races are worn with indents of the needle bearings. I had planned on just greasing and putting back together but now I know they are like this I will have to change them.

Now your fitting new bearings grease them once a year and keep them adjusted and you'll never have to replace them again.

 

[topcat2006]

Do you reckon its worth replacing the FD bearing whilst I am in there?

As for greasing regularly - yes definitely. For years I worked on farms and always spent 30 minutes each morning greasing the machine I was using where as colleagues did not. I was never the one with a bearing failure in the middle of a field - and I could also spot the bearings needing replacement prior to them failing......!!

Tom

 

[topcat2006]

Paralever bearings now done. I checked the FD bearing and no broken rivets or slivers of metal in the oil so just replaced the oil seal and put it all back together!

Thanks all for your help.

Tom

 

[rudiemoto]

Dear oh dear.

x2
oh dear