Permanent Bullet Cam Mounting


Hugh Janus
UKGSer Subscriber
Apr 19, 2014
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Hi all,

I'm looking to mount a Roadhawk Bullet R+ on the front of my 2014RT, which will be hard wired.

Has anyone done similar?

Purpose is to have 'black box' style onboard camera and don't need daily access to the unit, equally don't want it mounted on the outside of the fairing to make it so obvious.

Currently thinking of underneath the headlight area on the underside of the fairing.
I have been thinking the same and that looked sensible place if it can be forward enough to clear the bodywork. I think I have settled with 3m on the side of the sat mount to give a little more height. I have yet to solve the wiring.
3m to the side of the mount, that's a long way!

I had a bullet cam behind the screen a few RTs ago, but the screen either caused glare, or when it got wet the droplets of water got in the way of the lens.

I'll have a look tomorrow for possible locations, as to the 12v supply I'm going to tap into the sat nav feed which is switched.
OK so I have mounted a DogCam Bullet HD on my RT LC and Im quite happy with it.

I wanted to get a permanent camera running all the time the bike is on, ( I have a RoadHawk HD cam in my car since a previous insurance company decided I should pay for the privilege of having a chap from Greece run in to the back of my car)

I have used RoadHawk/Dogcam for a few years now, and got a bullet cam with various mounts and also a hard wire kit. The mount I chose was the swivel mount with a helmet (curved base) but in order to mount it on the underside of the clear plastic headlight I needed to change the profile of the mount as it had a double curve. I used a sheet of carbide paper taped onto a bucket to get the mount down to a single curve. I also used a plastic BMW R1200RT mirror safety cable that I never got around to fit to the old RT.

The knurled knob tightening screw has been replaced with an M4x40 stainless cap head screw, and to stop the play in the mount, I added a stainless self tapper which doubles as a security screw (not into the bike, just to stop the mount from coming apart so easily). Today was to prove the mount and I had the camera on an extended portable battery pack from Dogcam and this will see me get a feed from the 12v Sat Nav which is in the right area and also switched. Before I get this sorted, I need to get to Maplin and get a small plastic box to act as a cable tidy for the hard wiring kit.

The camera does not stand out and gives a good viewpoint (no shakes or vibration, but a little low for a motorcyclists point of view).

Ill post some video later on
video clip here.

Its only a short clip, but this shows the mount is stable and also there is not too much vibration.
Just one thing that springs to mind, how are you going to keep it clean, when riding? It won't be any good for capturing evidence if the lens gets dirty and can't capture a good clear image.

Just one thing that springs to mind, how are you going to keep it clean, when riding? It won't be any good for capturing evidence if the lens gets dirty and can't capture a good clear image.


I had bullet camera(s) on a Honda ST1300 Pan European and they generally kept themselves pretty clean in the rain, as the wind got rid of most of the stuff. Another one for the POWER check perhaps? But a quick run down each time I clean the windscreen should be good enough.

Do you have any photos of the install?
The mount is still on the bike at the moment, and the camera will be hard wired up tomorrow as the weather is looking nice, Ill get some more shots before I put it all back together,
These notes will help you install a Roadhawk or Dogcam bullet R+ camera to a 2014 or later BMW R 1200 RT.

You will need the following items;
• the bullet camera
• the adjustable mount
• the curved tray
• hard wiring kit
• Either a BMW Navigator or the tail connector that plugs into the BMW harness
• An SAE connector (optional)
• M4x35 stainless screw
• Camera tether.
• Stainless steel self-tapping screw

I split the installation into two parts; 1) the camera mounting; 2) the electrical supply.

The underside of the clear plastic headlight has a single curve and is a good place to mount the camera, however the mount is meant for helmet so has a double curvature.
To remedy this, I taped a sheet of course sandpaper to a normal household plastic bucket, and sanded down the double curvature to just one, after I removed the double sided sticky pad. When the double curve has gone, use a finer grade paper and some water to get a smooth finish, and then clean and degrease and put a new sticky pad on. Degrease the area under the headlight and attach mount to bike (might help to have the camera in the mount to get best positioning).

Next comes the adjustable mount, and this needs the knurled screw removing and replacing with an M4x35 screw (I used stainless steel), when I put the mount and the tray together I noted that there was about 2mm of play so used a stainless self-tapping screw to join the mount and tray, this also stops the two from coming apart quite so easily. Also the mount has an open frame to allow the camera to be snapped in and out, and initially I used plastic cable ties, but am working on a better solution to stop the camera from being snapped out of the mount so easily.

I used a tether from an earlier RT that secured the mirrors, but you can get Go Pro mounts that will do just as nicely. This loops around the plastic fairing and then around the M4x35 screw (you may need a washer).

So that is the camera installed.

The RT has a switched supply to the sat nav that is underneath the nearside windscreen (kind of wing mirror/speaker area) If you have a sat nav then you can tap into the wiring loom, if not Nippy Normans sell a plug for the job. I removed the screen and cowl, then two screws and two plastic grommets and the sat nav mounting panel is off. I have a Navigator V so tapped into the feed on the loom (so not the bike end). I wanted to have the ability to disconnect the whole loom so the SAE (same as most 12 battery tender cables) was attached in the sat nav loom, and the other end to the camera loom.

I wanted all the cables at the top away from the water, so dangled the cable down and attached it to the camera, then cable tied it on to the bike (left some slack so I can undo the camera or cable) and the spare cable was cable tied up and put in the space between screen motor and the back of the sat nav housing. I put some closed cell foam padding in around the components so no chaffing should occur. I also use self amalgamating rubber tape to cover the cable looms. Looks factory and no glue.

A quick test and power up then re-assemble the screen and sat nav mount.

Job done.
Hey Wobble. Thanks very much for documenting and sharing that. Very comprehensive and clear process. I feel inspired to try to do my RH ride.

The 3m idea wasn't so great for me. I pretty much decided that after, at 80mph on the M23, spotting the camera dropped off and loose on the faring!

Sorry if it's a silly question, but, how can you tell from the nav wire which is the switched feed live and neutral?
Thank bud. That's a kind offer. I was chatting with my buddy today and, I have already fitted twin horns with a NN conector. This has a switched live so we were thinking that could feed the camera from there. I have to find the RH cable which 'somebody' has hidden in the garage!

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