Picos, Paradors and Pyrenees

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Eight days, 2,600 miles, three bikes, four people... I'm no photographer, so there aren't many bike picutres, I'm afraid. Some of the photos are from my cheap mobile phone, so the quality isn't great.

Anyway, we left on Friday 19th September. Sadly, I'd booked my outbound crossing for the 18th September, so after the mammoth slog from home to Dover (8 mins or so) Richard and his Ducati ST4S left as planned on Speedferries, while I trotted off to blag a £50 one-way crossing from Seafrance. I wouldn't recommend Speedferries on anything other than cost. The crossing time may be shorter, but loading and unloading take so much longer. In fact, as Richard called me to say he was just waiting to unload in Calais (from the 14:20 Speedferries) I was already off the 14:10 ferry and exiting the port in Calais. The Seafrance boat was clean, not too busy, relaxing and I really liked the tie-down system they used for the bike. I didn't like the look of the tie-downs on Speedferries - they way they crank the brace round the rear wheel is just asking for final drive worries - although as there were 12 bikes and only 8 spaces, mine was strapped down over the seat on the car deck.

From the ferry:

Queueing to get into Calais:

The first afternoon took us to the Acropole Hotel in Bernay, a bit south of Rouen, which I'd recommend. Garmin Zumo meant this was the first time I've ever been anywhere near Rouen without getting hopelessly lost.

Saturday was a motorway slog to Bordeaux - three or four police speed traps on the long, straight E5 was a sign off things to come - and a B&B Hotel, then Sunday was another slog to the Parador to Cervera de Pisuerga. Turning off the motorway at Bilbao took us on the first decent road to the town of Balmaseda, where we stopped for Sunday tapas. The place was filled with donkey statues:

After a ride round the Embalse del Ebro near Aguilar de Campoo, we arrived at the Parador. I'd never stayed in Paradors before. For those that don't know, they are state-owned but privately run hotels, usually in historic buildings and great locations, and they are pretty luxurious. They're not cheap, but they run regular deals for those with a loyalty card (Amigos de Paradores), and we found bed and breakfast deals for E70 per room. Rooms are very spacious, restaurants are high quality (but not cheap - E30 for a three course meal), and the service is second to none. Check out the website: Paradors.

The parador in Cervera was an enormous old hunting lodge, a few miles from the town, with stunning views. I didn't take any pictures of the parador , but here's some views from our balcony:

 

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Part Two

Richard was stopped by the Guardia Civil on Sunday afternoon - he crossed a solid white line to overtake a small queue of traffic behind a tractor. Unfortunately, the police were in the queue. E63 fine and a talking to... but a fair cop.

Monday was a day to ride round the Picos without too much luggage. The weather was dull first thing, allowing us plenty of time at the breakfast trough - I weaned myself of lunch completely - and cleared up by 11-ish. We rode around using the showers as a navigational tool, taking us on various routes but going to Riano and Potes. The scenery is amazing, the roads a little variable - some great surfaces, some very bumpy roads, a lot covered in cow shit, and few covered in actual cows; not necessarily what you want to see when you go too fast into a tightening corner, on the basis that you haven't seen any traffic coming towards you. Some photos:

Riano:

 

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Part Three

Tuesday saw us riding from Cervera near the Picos to Sos del Rey Catolico in Rioja. We went via a variety of routes, taking in the Sierra de la Demanda national park, which had the bumpiest roads and the smallest one-horse towns.

I found a tremendous road near Sos, the NA 534. Beautiful surface, lovely bends you could see through, lovely twists and turns, and no traffic. A warm evening - it doesn't get much better. Then my sat nav took me onto the NA 5341. This started off as a very bumpy lane, and soon deteriorated into an unmade track alongside a canal. I felt rather Ewan and Charley. The canal was weird - fast-flowing and lovely clear blue water. Not like the usual muddy still water.

The Parador in Sos del Rey is built on the site of a very old castle with tremendous views and obviously a very long history. It was slightly more expensive than the others, and a real draw. There were a couple of GS's parked upoutside when we got there. Tried to find the riders, but they weren't obvious in the restaurant.

 

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Part Four

Richard was stopped for speeding in a small village. It is rather confusing with all the signs - 90 to 70 to 50 to 40 to "end of 70" to 50 and so on - but they caught him on camera (apparently, although he'll have to write off for a copy). There were lots of police in Spain, sometimes in villages checking speed, but more often on long empty straights. Seems that we're not the only place where motorists are somethign of a cash cow...

Wednesday's route was to the Parador in Arties, in the Val d'Aran in the Pyrenees. I rode along the N260, which was simply stunning. I'd read about it, and ridden some short sections of it, but to ride a longer section was great. More police in the towns, and Anthony on hs R1200RT was stopped for not stopping at a Stop sign. Clear view in every direction, no traffic, and he slowed to a crawl, apparently, but that wasn't good enough. I'd seen the two police bikes when I passed a little earlier and made a point of stopping, putting both feet down very deliberately, and that seemed to disappoint the police...

I didn't take many photos - too busy enjoying the mountain roads. The weather took a slight turn for the worse and it rained for about 30 minutes - the only rain I rode through in the eight days, so I can't really complain. The parador in Arties:

Thursday night's hotel was booked in France. I chose to cross the border early in the dayrather than continue in Spain, and satnav took me onto a road not shown on my map. From St Beat to St Girons in France was may favourite ride of the trip, and possibly ever. Initially a minor road, but pefectly surfaced and completely empty, then a slightly more major road over the cold de Portet-d'Aspet. A stunning area, and somewhere I shall return to in my mind for years to come in stressful moments.

Richard's Ducati's front tyre was completely knackered, so a call to Shenzi helped locate a new one in Carcassonne. The hotel in St Chinian was a bit of a disappointment, but the wine was top notch.

 

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Last Bit....

I can't believe anyone will read this far. I'm bored typing it all!

Anyway, Friday saw us head for St Loup, a few miles north of Vichy. I wanted to ride over the Millau bridge, and ride again along a road of which I have fond memories. The road from St Chinian via St Pons de Thomiere to Bedarieux wasn't quite as food as I remembered it, but still a brilliant ride. Then onto the Cirque de Navacelles, which is a rather large gorge with very steep roads gong down and up again. Well worth a visit if you're in the area.

The hotel in St Loup was a truckers' relais - Relais de la Route Bleue on the N7. Highly recommended. Tremendous meal for nearly nothing. It was a trifle chilly in the morning, though - 4 degrees and misty. With a fair few miles to do and a ferry to catch, we couldn't wait too long before leaving, but once the mist burned off around 10:00, it wasn't too bad. Good fun on the Peripherique, got off the motorway for the last hour or two before Boulogne, then onto the delights of Speedferries with the drunken, swearing, vomiting returning day-trippers. Welcome back to England.

Great trip, though. Bike ran faultlessly all the way, satnav found some lovely roads by accident and made towns and cities a doddle, music on the motorways was brilliant, weather was great for the time of year and region.

 

[Hustler]

I can't believe anyone will read this far. I'm bored typing it all!.............

Luckily I started at the last post so saved myself a lot of time and effort.

 

[Hustler]

But seriously, thank you.
Hotel tips noted as well.

 

[Joybringer]

Nice report - thanks.

JB

 

[ebbo]

Great report Robin, super pictures too