Here you go (recently adjusted mine and have since done another bike).
It's this big nut ahead of the final drive.
The one on the inside is the adjuster (the outer one is fixed).
The 30mm locknut is fixed in place with thread-lock and you need to heat it until the thread-lock softens.
A hot-air gun will do the heating. 30mm socket on a breaker bar will provide enough leverage on the nut.
Make sure that the thread-lock compound is soft. The nut is steel, the adjuster (12mm hex) is titanium but the housing is cast aluminium, so take care.
Once it's out you have to clean off the old thread-lock compound. I use acetone (nail polish remover)
Beware. Acetone will remove some paint finishes!
Pick out the old thread-lock with something soft like a coctail stick after the acetone has had some time to soften it.
Do the same with the housing thread. Apply the acetone on a cloth.
To clean the thread of the lock-nut, put the adjuster in a clamp or a vice at a slight angle.
Start the lock-nut and pour a little acetone into the top.
Then turn the nut down over the adjuster. this will help clean both threads.
An old toothbrush cleans out the last of the crud but don't be tempted to stick the toothbrush directly into the acetone. It may just melt the bristles if they are nylon!
What you want is the locknut to run up and down the thread with just finger pressure.
Now the hard bit!
The correct torque value for the adjuster is 7Nm (not very much) but the lock-nut is done up to 160Nm (quite a lot).
You need to be able to hold the adjuster to stop it turning when the 160Nm goes into the lock-nut.
To do this BMW have a "special tool"...
Basically it's a 30mm impact socket with a slot cut in it.
Halfords will sell you one for £8, then you need someone to cut out the slot.
Smear the adjuster with the correct strength thread-lock.
Have the tools to hand, 12mm hex key, 30mm ring spanner, the "special tool" and torque wrenches.
I support the Paralever with a jack, it helps to line up the bearing.
Put the adjuster in and do it up by hand. 7Nm isn't very much so be careful not to over-tighten it.
Torque it to 7Nm then I draw a verticle line with an indelible pen on it so that I can quickly see if it has shifted.
Hold the adjuster with a hex key while doing up the lock-nut with a ring spanner as tight as you can.
Then it's the turn of the "special tool". Insert the hex key into the socket, hold the adjuster steady and put 160Nm into the lock-nut.
Check that the verticle line is still verticle, allow the thread-lock compound to cure, replace the wheel and check that the play has disappeared!
Bingo!
(I'm sure Steppers will correct anything I may have said that's bollox!)
A fairly straight forward job but requires removing the complete rear bevel box.
