Post AFC50 winter cleaning regime

[mrklunk]

Sorry if this is the wrong place but wanted to ask you guys how (or if!) you clean your bike over winter.

I've just had my bike professionally ACF50'd. I get this done in November and January to help protect against salty Scottish winter roads.

What I want to know is what you guys to to clean the bike without removing the ACF50? The company said you can pressure wash the bike to get the worst of the muck off, or even use a mild car shampoo. But that will only take the worst of it off as it normally needs wiped/agitated.

I've read on forums that some guys don't clean it at all until spring, but I'm not sure I could cope with that!

Also, do you then dry the bike with a pet-drier or just put it back in the garage wet? I'm going round in circles trying to think what's best and would appreciate advice from you guys.

P.S. I don't want to do a 2-hour proper wash and re-apply ACF50 after every ride. Usually in the dark. I ride most days if it's not icy or torrential (20K per annum)

Cheers

 

[Anthony Byrne]

What works for me

1) wash it down with a blast of a hose
2) dry using an air compressor
3) 2 minute wipe over with a rag with acf50

If it has been a few weeks since it’s last scrub I might use the power hose at step 1 and snow foam

So many will have various ways, I know lads that wash their bike twice a year and others after every ride

 

[Slipperyeel]

I'm really not sure what 'professionally done' means? You can just do it yourself?

But to answer your question, I have really come to trust ACF50. I drench my bike in it (I use a compressor and a paraffin spray gun from MachineMart - 12 quid) on it about now (Nov) then maybe give it a local squirt here and there over the following months. Otherwise, I now trust it so much that I'm falling into that group who cleans the bike only in the spring. Washes mostly involve just a fresh water hose down.

I say this because for a 10yr old bike, mine cleans up almost new each time. It takes a number of washes to remove it, I'd say 4 washes, with warm water and detergent of course.

You've done the right thing getting it coated

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

 

[mrklunk]

What works for me

1) wash it down with a blast of a hose
2) dry using an air compressor
3) 2 minute wipe over with a rag with acf50

If it has been a few weeks since it’s last scrub I might use the power hose at step 1 and snow foam

So many will have various ways, I know lads that wash their bike twice a year and others after every ride

Thanks Anthony. Last year I did power wash and snow foam - it was the drying I wasn't sure about. It stayed outside last yeat as I lived in a flat but have a garage now so can dry it in there.

 

[mrklunk]

I'm really not sure what 'professionally done' means? You can just do it yourself?

But to answer your question, I have really come to trust ACF50. I drench my bike in it (I use a compressor and a paraffin spray gun from MachineMart - 12 quid) on it about now (Nov) then maybe give it a local squirt here and there over the following months. Otherwise, I now trust it so much that I'm falling into that group who cleans the bike only in the spring. Washes mostly involve just a fresh water hose down.

I say this because for a 10yr old bike, mine cleans up almost new each time. It takes a number of washes to remove it, I'd say 4 washes, with warm water and detergent of course.

You've done the right thing getting it coated

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

There's a company called All Year Biker that deep clean the bike then coat it in ACF50. I may attempt myself next year but they do a great job. Cheers

 

[Slipperyeel]

There's a company called All Year Biker that deep clean the bike then coat it in ACF50. I may attempt myself next year but they do a great job. Cheers

I can see the convenience of getting someone in to do it and I guess the time saved. But there's no magic to it - unless you call a compressor and paraffin spray gun magic . A litre of fluid will last 3-4 years...

But as I said. It's on there! You'll be happy you did it

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[trebor]

IMHO the whole bike doesn't need drenching in ACF50.
Anything with paint on isn't not going corrode because it's been sprayed with ACF50. If the paint wasn't applied correctly at the factory it could corrode whether it has been covered in ACF50 or not.

What I do:
At the beginning of Winter, about the time they start applying salt to the roads, I thorougly wash the bike, removing any tar with tar remover (or WD-40).
Any surface that is likely to corrode I apply ACF50 to, for example, the aluminium luggage will be given a good wipe over with a cloth with ACF50 on it, all fasteners/brake banjos will have a blob of ACF50 applied and wiped off with a cloth, I'll apply a small drop of ACF50 to the point where spokes enter the wheel rims then wipe off, using the same cloth to wipe the whole wheel (it comes up like new, but will attract dirt quickly), I also apply small blobs/wipe off to the spoke fasteners at the hubs.
I'll also wipe bare aluminium surfaces on the engine/drive shaft (i.e. at flanges).
I'll then use Scotoiler F365 to spray behind the plastic covers of the engine, around the rear and front shock, and other hard to get to areas.
The process of adding ACF50 and F365 takes me about 15 minutes to half an hour.

Whenever I use the bike most of the time all I do is hose it down to get rid of the salt and, if I have time, I'll blow excess water off using a leaf blower (but many a time it goes away wet, especially if I'm using it again the next day). I may run it up and down the road a few times applying the brakes to dry them out (especially if it's not going to be used for a few days).
I'll reapply F365 after most hose downs as it's water soluble, but only reapply ACF50 after every few rinse downs.
If the bike is looking particularly filthy I may give it a full wash mid-Winter and reapply ACF50 and F365.

This routine has stood me well for over 15 years. My bikes are ridden all year round, I normally change them at about 30,000 miles (at about 3 to 4 years old), and each bike almost looks like new when they are moved on.

I bought 3 spray cans of ACF50 spray when they were on offer from Adams Aviation in 2003 (before most, if any, motorcycle shops started selling them), I've almost finished the last of these three cans. There is supposed to be an active ingredient in ACF50, which only lasts about 3 years, but mine seems to still do the job it's supposed to do!

 

[Mr Derek]

Aerosol ACF50 is a bit hit and miss. It doesn't always spray well.

Get the liquid with the trigger bottle. Fill the bottle. Stand it in warm water for 10 minutes to thin the liquid a little and it covers really well. (Don't forget to wrap the brakes in newspaper/old towels to stop them getting oily.)

 

[yoyo]

I coated mine 2 weeks ago using my air compressor and a touch up gun, got back after a ride yesterday and the bike was stinking, I just give it a good rinse with a hose pipe and that will go. I've got a pet drier I normally use to dry it but it was just about warm enough for it to dry in the sunshine.

Sent from my ELE-L29 using Tapatalk

 

[trebor]

Aerosol ACF50 is a bit hit and miss. It doesn't always spray well.

Get the liquid with the trigger bottle. Fill the bottle. Stand it in warm water for 10 minutes to thin the liquid a little and it covers really well. (Don't forget to wrap the brakes in newspaper/old towels to stop them getting oily.)

It works well for how I use it, a little goes a long way.

 

[Mr Bean]

Aerosol ACF50 is a bit hit and miss. It doesn't always spray well.

Get the liquid with the trigger bottle. Fill the bottle. Stand it in warm water for 10 minutes to thin the liquid a little and it covers really well. (Don't forget to wrap the brakes in newspaper/old towels to stop them getting oily.)

I've had good results using ACF50 in a trigger spray bottle, diluted 1:1 with brake cleaner - no need for a compressor. although I now have one.

 

[boatman]

I wash of with a pressure washer ( sensibly) , drip dry then drown everything but the discs and the seat with GT85 ,,,, been doing that for years now and it seems to work fine

 

[Slipperyeel]

Regarding the brakes. I HIGHLY suggest not a solitary drop, fingerprint, waft with a cloth gets near the discs. You'll end up with pulsing brakes until it finally abrades off!

DAMHIK!!!

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[mrklunk]

IMHO the whole bike doesn't need drenching in ACF50.
Anything with paint on isn't not going corrode because it's been sprayed with ACF50. If the paint wasn't applied correctly at the factory it could corrode whether it has been covered in ACF50 or not.

What I do:
At the beginning of Winter, about the time they start applying salt to the roads, I thorougly wash the bike, removing any tar with tar remover (or WD-40).
Any surface that is likely to corrode I apply ACF50 to, for example, the aluminium luggage will be given a good wipe over with a cloth with ACF50 on it, all fasteners/brake banjos will have a blob of ACF50 applied and wiped off with a cloth, I'll apply a small drop of ACF50 to the point where spokes enter the wheel rims then wipe off, using the same cloth to wipe the whole wheel (it comes up like new, but will attract dirt quickly), I also apply small blobs/wipe off to the spoke fasteners at the hubs.
I'll also wipe bare aluminium surfaces on the engine/drive shaft (i.e. at flanges).
I'll then use Scotoiler F365 to spray behind the plastic covers of the engine, around the rear and front shock, and other hard to get to areas.
The process of adding ACF50 and F365 takes me about 15 minutes to half an hour.

Whenever I use the bike most of the time all I do is hose it down to get rid of the salt and, if I have time, I'll blow excess water off using a leaf blower (but many a time it goes away wet, especially if I'm using it again the next day). I may run it up and down the road a few times applying the brakes to dry them out (especially if it's not going to be used for a few days).
I'll reapply F365 after most hose downs as it's water soluble, but only reapply ACF50 after every few rinse downs.
If the bike is looking particularly filthy I may give it a full wash mid-Winter and reapply ACF50 and F365.

This routine has stood me well for over 15 years. My bikes are ridden all year round, I normally change them at about 30,000 miles (at about 3 to 4 years old), and each bike almost looks like new when they are moved on.

I bought 3 spray cans of ACF50 spray when they were on offer from Adams Aviation in 2003 (before most, if any, motorcycle shops started selling them), I've almost finished the last of these three cans. There is supposed to be an active ingredient in ACF50, which only lasts about 3 years, but mine seems to still do the job it's supposed to do!

Thanks for the detailed response, sounds effective. I look after my bike but it never looks quite as good as some I see. I suspect I may be comparing it to sunny Sunday ride bikes though. Cheers.

 

[mrklunk]

I wash of with a pressure washer ( sensibly) , drip dry then drown everything but the discs and the seat with GT85 ,,,, been doing that for years now and it seems to work fine

GT85 does seem popular. Cheers

 

[Robbi]

Does GT85 creep the same as AFC50.?

 

[GrinningGSer]

Every November, remove rear wheel , remove silencer, remove bash plate .Lube the exhaust flap . Hot soapy water surgical clean ( Simoniz). Air dry ( leaf blower ). Cover disks , ACF50 aerosol can in very hot boiling water for 10mins . Fine Misty spray all engine and framework and shaft, Apply ACF50 to wheel rims using a rag.
WD40 to silencer and panniers . Re assemble silencer and rear wherl . Repeat next November. Bike looks lovely until ridden near dirt .

 

[Kaybe]

Been using ACF 50 on my bikes for past 15/20 years.
I don't have an atomiser spray, rather once bike has had a good clean I apply to a cloth and rub over all the metalwork.
To do between the fins I use a simple bottle washer brush to apply.
To get into the deeper nooks and crannies use the spray can that has been warmed up in a hot water bucket to make less gloopy.
Can use same technique with XCP, which I now prefer.

As to washing, during winter when bike stops let it cool a bit and then just wash over with cold water, gets bulk of any salt / muck etc off.
Might apply a bit of ACF 50 / XCP as time goes on.

Then come spring I do a complete Gunk of the bike to remove all this protective layers and then restart the process for the spring / summer, clearly less aggressive attack during this time, so soapy water / foam clean periodically an a wee top of an oiled cloth.
Use the same one - it is saturated and does a great job.

 

[Edmund Kean]

Sorry if this is the wrong place but wanted to ask you guys how (or if!) you clean your bike over winter.

I've just had my bike professionally ACF50'd. I get this done in November and January to help protect against salty Scottish winter roads.

What I want to know is what you guys to to clean the bike without removing the ACF50? The company said you can pressure wash the bike to get the worst of the muck off, or even use a mild car shampoo. But that will only take the worst of it off as it normally needs wiped/agitated.

I've read on forums that some guys don't clean it at all until spring, but I'm not sure I could cope with that!

Also, do you then dry the bike with a pet-drier or just put it back in the garage wet? I'm going round in circles trying to think what's best and would appreciate advice from you guys.

P.S. I don't want to do a 2-hour proper wash and re-apply ACF50 after every ride. Usually in the dark. I ride most days if it's not icy or torrential (20K per annum)

Cheers

If you’re riding on salted roads what will/do you do about keeping the brake calliper pistons corrosion free? Have you coated those in something?

 

[mrklunk]

If you’re riding on salted roads what will/do you do about keeping the brake calliper pistons corrosion free? Have you coated those in something?

This is the area I worry about most. Not sure if these are coated as it's advised to stay clear of the brakes. Don't know how to solve/prevent.