Preventative Maintenance? '02 1150GS 73k miles

[Two wheels good]

I'm thinking about some preventative maintenance in anticipation of the Summer. My '02 1150GS ABS is at 73k miles with the original clutch, slave cylinder and crown wheel bearing.

In addition to a full major service should I also:
- replace clutch slave cyl
- replace clutch hydraulic hose (no obvious sign of corrosion but I do need to take a closer look)
- fit the spare crown wheel bearing I've been carrying around for more than a year
- maybe replace brake hoses (no signs of perishing)
- lube driveshaft splines (last done at 35k miles)

I'm in the process of removing the clutch slave cyl to inspect it and the hose too.
(Couldn't they have shaped that gearbox threaded tube for easy access to the slave cyl bolts!)

Any other jobs I should add to the list - or am I just a bit too paranoid?

Thanks

 

[Fanum]

Are you breaking its back to get the slave cylinder out, or are you doing it the fiddly Maestro Steptoe way by going in using your gynaecological hands?

If you're doing it his way, then don't fix what isn't broken IMO......do that, do the alt belt and a good general check over and then just ride it.

If however you're breaking the back to get to the slave cylinder, seems to me you may as well change the clutch......the cost of parts is much less than the effort of breaking her open, so while in there, you may as well

As for rear end bearings, definitely leave them unless they show any signs of needing to be changed

 

[Two wheels good]

Thanks. I'm not planning to break it's back. Hoping to reach 100k miles on the clutch.
I need to get allen keys with a swivel head, or cut down one of my standard ones to do the fiddly business.

It is advisable to replace the slave cyl - even if it's not leaking?
(Until recently I thought I'd read a leaky slave cyl could lead to clutch contamination along the pushrod. Maybe I confused it with gearbox seal failure)

 

[Steptoe]

Maybe, just maybe replace the brake hoses.

Don't bother changing anything else until you need to.

And i've never ever ever heard of or seen any driveshaft splines wearing out on an 1100/1150 due to lack of lube.

The only drive shaft splines that need greasing are on the K75/100.

 

[davegs]

Preventative measures

Flog it quick, I'll collect it and bung you £100.00 as a favour.

 

[gerarddwatts]

Get some ball ended Allen keys and it's easy! Swap the standard clutch line for a braided(1150 Adv ?) one.

 

[Timolgra]

As for rear end bearings, definitely leave them unless they show any signs of needing to be changed

Like at the end of the first day of a big ride

 

[Two wheels good]

Maybe, just maybe replace the brake hoses.

Don't bother changing anything else until you need to.

And i've never ever ever heard of or seen any driveshaft splines wearing out on an 1100/1150 due to lack of lube.

The only drive shaft splines that need greasing are on the K75/100.

That's good to hear. Thanks Neil. I can spend my savings on the throttle bodies
Here's to another summer of reliable touring. No wait, the brake light switch failed last summer. Outrageous!

"ball ended Allen keys" That's what I meant. Thanks Gerard. Might sound knowledgeable in the tool shop now.

 

[Grim Rider]

Apart from servicing my 1150 and rebuilding the shocks a couple of times the only things I have had to change in 96k miles are a final drive bearing and seal because it started leaking, and the clutch slave master cylinder because I didn't listen to Neil. I would just keep riding it, but make sure you spray ACF50 or similar over the cylinder regularly (if you do need to change it I found using a foot long allen key with a ball end I found at work did the job without having to take too much of the bike apart).

 

[Pekkavee]

When did you change your fuel filter.

Pekka

 

[Tsiklonaut]

FFS, just ride the damn thing!

If someting brakes: repair.

Repeat.

 

[Ron from BC]

Every winter I wonder what I should check/replace as a preventive measure on my '02 GSA with 97K miles. In the end I pretty much replace when needed.

I'm still on my original FD and clutch. Replaced my clutch slave last summer after seeing dirty fluid in the reservoir. Just changed the fuel filter after hearing faint noise from the gas tank, the last filter time I changed the filter was at 45.5 K miles. Alternator belt was swapped out at 43K miles but the original was still in good shape.

Dan Cata throttle body rebuild kit at 96K.

There is some minute lateral play from my pivot bearings, I have the new ones but haven't installed them yet.

I have to do some reading to see how oem fuel pumps are lasting....100K miles??

On a side note when I replaced my 76 R90 clutch at 91K miles the splines were perfect.

 

[Two wheels good]

When did you change your fuel filter.

New fuel filter due, and alt belt too

Well, the slave cyl looked okay. The small amount of black sticky material on it seemed to be grease not gunge. But I'll need to keep an eye on it. Same with slight rust on hose.

Now the problem is getting the slave cyl. back in fully! Either the pushrod won't engage with the recess in the cyl. or the piston has pushed out too far.
Just as long as the pushrod hasn't been dislodged on the clutch end! Will try again later. Time for football now.

 

[(RIP) DitchWater]

The cylinder can't push out too far because it has a circlip preventing that.

Push harder and then be gentle with the torque on the mounting bolts.

PS. You're waisting your time with football.

 

[Two wheels good]

FFS, just ride the damn thing!
If someting brakes: repair.
Repeat.

I will. I mean, I do - ride it!
An intrepid traveller like you probably secretly relishes the challenge of fixing a breakdown in some fly-blown quarter of the bundu. Even with all the conveniences of western civilisation to hand I want to avoid the hassle - and the expense! If I has a cable clutch I'd just clip a spare in place. I bet you did before you left home.

 

[Two wheels good]

The cylinder can't push out too far because it has a circlip preventing that.
Push harder and then be gentle with the torque on the mounting bolts.

Good point.
The bolts don't even reach the thread. I'll try pushing the piston back. Tomorrow - I'm aching too much now.

PS. You're waisting your time with football.

You must have seen me play.

 

[Two wheels good]

Thanks folks. All's good now. Unnecessary worrying; just needed a bit more force. New allen key added to the tool kit. Next: refurb throttle bodies.

 

[Ron from BC]

+1 on the Dan Cata rebuild kit....I couldn't believe how quiet my bike was after and also ran much smoother...in addition to resetting the TPS. I tried .36v but got some hesitation at lower rpm so changed it to .38v and it seems to work well at that number on my '02 GSA.

I have no affiliation to Dan...just happy customer

 

[Ady00]

The nemsis for cluch slave cylinders and cluches is topping the clutch master cylinder up to much, people think it works the same as the brakes with the fluid dropping as you get wear, the cluch works the oposite way. As your cluch wears the slave cylinder piston goes further back in, not out, forcing the fluid back up to the master cylinder until you get hydraulic lock which causes you trouble....just keep to the proper service intervals......ride it....and cross your bridges when you get to them....

All the best.....Ady

 

[ELIMINATOR]

You just made me go out to the garage and check the master cylinder.