Problem with accessory socket feed

[Geoff Crowther]

Hi all
In the process of prepping my mates new-to-him 2004 1200GS for our trip to Morocco.
We've fitted an autocom and his Zumo 660 with no problem. I wired both to the back of the accessory socket.
He has an ICOM radio which is connected to the autocom for audio but not power. He's fitted a battery eliminator to the radio which has a plug to go into the accessory socket.
When it's plugged in, the radio works for 5-10 seconds and then all power to the accessory socket is cut, presumably by the CANBUS system? His Zumo and autocom go off too.
We reckon the supply to the socket is overloaded.
In any event, we'd prefer to hard wire the radio in.
Any suggestions as to where we can hard wire the radio in. In needs to be stored under the seat due to the length of the autocom-radio lead.
Cheers
Geoff

 

[Beemerman59]

Hi all
In the process of prepping my mates new-to-him 2004 1200GS for our trip to Morocco.
We've fitted an autocom and his Zumo 660 with no problem. I wired both to the back of the accessory socket.
He has an ICOM radio which is connected to the autocom for audio but not power. He's fitted a battery eliminator to the radio which has a plug to go into the accessory socket.
When it's plugged in, the radio works for 5-10 seconds and then all power to the accessory socket is cut, presumably by the CANBUS system? His Zumo and autocom go off too.
We reckon the supply to the socket is overloaded.
In any event, we'd prefer to hard wire the radio in.
Any suggestions as to where we can hard wire the radio in. In needs to be stored under the seat due to the length of the autocom-radio lead.
Cheers
Geoff

Depends if you want it switched or not. I have a switched/unswitched fuse box connected to the battery and I use one of the unswitched outputs as a replacement of the OEM socket under the seat. I fitted a powerlet socket to replace the OEM one. This means I can use any accessory ignition on or off up to 15amps in my case. I could just as easily use a switchjed output if I did'nt want it coming on without the ignition being on. You could just hard wire an appropriate connector to the battery, just make sure it has a fuse as close to the positive terminal as you can get it.

 

[Geoff Crowther]

Thanks Beemerman, but that's stretching my knowledge a bit far. We don't want it switched, but on all the time with ignition. Wiring to the battery won't do that will it?
I can cope with an inline fuse but isn't there anywhere we can pick power up from, other than the acc socket, which won't cause a problem with the canbus?
Don't want another switch or another power socket.
Anyone?
Cheers
Geoff

 

[illustratedman]

What beemerman means by switched is the equipment is only live when the ignition is turned on. If you want the radio on all the time direct from from the battery is the way to go with an inline fuse. This has the down side that the connector is permantly live which over time can lead to corrosion on the electrical connector for the radio and if you forget to disconnect/turn off the radio will drain the battery.

 

[Adamj79]

There is a 5amp limit on the accessory socket, and the canbus system will temporarily cut the power when this is exceeded. This is probably what has happened in your case.

There are loads of excellent threads on here busting with info about how to wire your accessories, and to be honest a few different ways of going about it.

I researched it quite a bit and in the end decided on an Eastern Beaver PC8 fuse panel which means everything is protected and the canbus is happy. I use this to power my autocom, gps, gerbings heated gear and a usb socket taking power direct from the battery via a relay, using the accessory socket as a switching lead. This method also leaves the accessory socket free should you need to use it as well.

Hope you get sorted and have a great trip.

 

[NLC]

I have heard nightmares of using anything attached to the Canbus. For example if you put a pump on it, the bike turns the accessory socket off given the voltage demand. I have all my bling wired through a ignition switched fuzebox from Nippy Normans. Works very well and easy to diagnose if something doesn't work like having fuses!

 

[Adamj79]

Oh and I take it you know about the other power source near the front beak designed for powering your GPS? NN do a made up lead to attach to the Zumo if you need one.

 

[Geoff Crowther]

Ok guys, thank for all those useful replies, really grateful.
Adam, i just found out about that today (the front beak connector) and I reckon that's by far the simplest solution. And you're obviously right about that 5 amp limit, which is clearly the explanation for the problem.
Thanks again to all responders. With fingers crossed, we seem to have the solution.
Cheers all,
Geoff

 

[NLC]

Oh and I take it you know about the other power source near the front beak designed for powering your GPS? NN do a made up lead to attach to the Zumo if you need one.

I have my GPS plugged in this way as well. Anything that needs a lot of power going via the CANBUS your asking for trouble IMHO.

 

[Geoff Crowther]

Cheers Cookie. Thanks for that.
Geoff

 

[Norfolk Tiger]

I used the wire to the accessory socket to energise a 4 pin relay which takes it power supply direct from the battery.The relay then can supply the items you want without overloading the can network.The relay should cost you around a fiver.