Problem with O2 Sensor 2007 R1200R

ferguscawley

ferguscawley

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Hi all. I have a 2007 R1200R (recent purchase) in addition to my GSA. (I know, I know, it's not a GS but is essentially the exact same....)

I noticed that it can be a bit lumpy at times (idles ok but the occasional hiccup) especially when hot.

Anyway, I ran a GS-911 autoscan and found that Lambda (O2) sensor cylinder 1 was faulty. I ordered a (used) replacement. It arrived and I removed the lefthand O2 probe (assuming it was cylinder 1) and replaced. No change. Same fault still occurred on GS-911. I then discovered that Cylinder 1 is actually the right hand cylinder to I went to replace the RH one (with the previous O2 sensor I had removed from LHS).

fault%20code-M.png


Anyway, to cut a long story short, previous owner(s) had done a bit of a botch job. The RHS O2 sensor block-connector had been cut off and a homemade loom made with soldered joints now connected the O2 sensor to the bike’s loom.
I remade a new ‘loom’ to connect the O2 sensor as per the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual.

colours-M.png


All seems good. Proper soldered connections etc.

I reset the adaptations etc, started the bike and the fault still exists – and looking at the realtime O2 values, it seems that cylinder 1 is still the same – ie showing a constant low voltage value, while cylinder 2 flicks high and low.

graph-M.png


So all I can now think of is that there may be damage to the loom between the point of connection and the ECU. All wiring colours match – I ran the O2 heaters test via GS-911 and they both ran perfectly.

Anyone got any thoughts on this ? I assume I should bell-out the loom to the ECU multi-connector

Thanks
Fergus
 
ferguscawley said:
Hi all. I have a 2007 R1200R (recent purchase) in addition to my GSA. (I know, I know, it's not a GS but is essentially the exact same....)

I noticed that it can be a bit lumpy at times (idles ok but the occasional hiccup) especially when hot.

Anyway, I ran a GS-911 autoscan and found that Lambda (O2) sensor cylinder 1 was faulty. I ordered a (used) replacement. It arrived and I removed the lefthand O2 probe (assuming it was cylinder 1) and replaced. No change. Same fault still occurred on GS-911. I then discovered that Cylinder 1 is actually the right hand cylinder to I went to replace the RH one (with the previous O2 sensor I had removed from LHS).

fault%20code-M.png


Anyway, to cut a long story short, previous owner(s) had done a bit of a botch job. The RHS O2 sensor block-connector had been cut off and a homemade loom made with soldered joints now connected the O2 sensor to the bike’s loom.
I remade a new ‘loom’ to connect the O2 sensor as per the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual.

colours-M.png


All seems good. Proper soldered connections etc.

I reset the adaptations etc, started the bike and the fault still exists – and looking at the realtime O2 values, it seems that cylinder 1 is still the same – ie showing a constant low voltage value, while cylinder 2 flicks high and low.

graph-M.png


So all I can now think of is that there may be damage to the loom between the point of connection and the ECU. All wiring colours match – I ran the O2 heaters test via GS-911 and they both ran perfectly.

Anyone got any thoughts on this ? I assume I should bell-out the loom to the ECU multi-connector

Thanks
Fergus
Click to expand...

If ive interpreted it correctly --

Lambda 1 Isnt doing anything , the voltages are odd, and there is little variation - Lambda 2 is fluctuating as it should and the voltage is around 1v (i guess it's your scale)

I'd go back to the start

1) Run the test again with your original setup and capture the plots
2) Swap your original sensors L to R and run the test and capture the plot

3) Put your "new" sensor in either side and test again and capture the plot
4) Swap your "New" sensor side to side L - R and run the trest again and capture the plot


you now should have 4 plots 2 with the std sensors and 2 with the "new" sensor

If the suspect loom side shows the same "no movement" on all four plots then its more than likley the loom as you suspect

If the suspect loom side shows normal readings for any of the sensors and the non suspect side also has non normal readings for any of the sensors readings ,

then one or more of the sensors are faulty
 
Thanks for the reply.

Regarding the sensors, cylinder 2 (lhs) shows the same for the existing and replacement sensor. Exactly the same behaviour.

So currently cylinder 2 has my 'new' replacement sensor installed.

Cylinder 1 now has the previously good sensor from cylinder 2 and is now not reading correctly. In fact it's reading exactly as the original cylinder 1 sensor.

I'll do as you suggest to be 100% sure though.

Thanks again.
 
Lambda sensor 2 looks good.
As the heater test looks good with the GS911 assume the heater circuit is ok, you can check the heater circuit voltage with a meter at the lambda connector.
I would be tempted to run a couple of wires from the BMSK ecu to the lambda sensor 1 to check the signal circuit wiring.
Obviously prior to this I would disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reboot the ecu in case it was just a glitch.
 
Just a thought...

on the side thats reading odd, if the wiring was crossed, is the almost static yellow trace actually showing the heater circuit values?
 
The problem with cylinder 1 is simple, there is an open circuit in the signal path. It could be the harness wire that connects to either the O2 sensor's gray or black wire--or possibly both.

You're not seeing an "odd" voltage on cylinder #1, you're seeing about 450 mV which is the voltage that the BMSK biases its inputs to. In other words, it reads 450 mV if no O2 is connected.

It will also read 450 mV when the O2 sensor is cold. The reason for this is that the O2 sensor can't produce voltages until either its heater or the exhaust warms it up.

The O2 sensor is biased to 450 mV so that the BMSK has a way to know if it doesn't see or there isn't a sensor.

Happy Troubleshooting.
 
Santa-2512 said:
Just a thought...

on the side thats reading odd, if the wiring was crossed, is the almost static yellow trace actually showing the heater circuit values?
Click to expand...

Wiring isn't crossed. That's 100% certain as it's based upon the wiring diagram
 
Roger 04 RT said:
The problem with cylinder 1 is simple, there is an open circuit in the signal path. It could be the harness wire that connects to either the O2 sensor's gray or black wire--or possibly both.

You're not seeing an "odd" voltage on cylinder #1, you're seeing about 450 mV which is the voltage that the BMSK biases its inputs to. In other words, it reads 450 mV if no O2 is connected.

It will also read 450 mV when the O2 sensor is cold. The reason for this is that the O2 sensor can't produce voltages until either its heater or the exhaust warms it up.

The O2 sensor is biased to 450 mV so that the BMSK has a way to know if it doesn't see or there isn't a sensor.

Happy Troubleshooting.
Click to expand...

Thanks Roger

That's really helpful. I'll get stuck into it later when I get home.

Regards

Fergus
 
how do you know the pins on the ECU are in line with the wires you're connecting to the O2 sensors

is the right side really cyl 1 ?

sounds to me like a loom fault got someone playing silly buggers... see mistacat's post
 
Update

I removed the tank and inspected the loom all the way to the BMSK module. No obvious damage.

I removed the loom connectors at the BMSK module and then did continuity testing between the 4 wires from the O2 sensor to their corresponding pins in the loom connector plug.

The heater circuit was all ok
The grey wire which ends at pin number 43 belled out fine.
The black wire which ends on pin number 90 was open circuit.

So I re-inspected the loom and even opened it in a couple of places and did continuity checks on the green/yellow wire (going from the O2 sensor's black wire to pin 90) using a small safety pin by penetrating the insulation on the wire. All was OK.

I then opened the plastic cover that protects / hides the multiple wires that go into the multi-pin loom connector block itself. I tested the wire there using same safety pin and it was good.

I then pulled / tugged on the wire at that point and tested again on the pin side of the connector. I now had continuity. But it's not a proper connection because when I tested it a few minutes later it was gone again.

It appears there is a poor connection internal in the loom connector plug itself. I am going to have to try and remove the female connector pin number 90 from this plug and see can I repair it. I'll have another look at that later. Doesn't look easy.

My guess is that the previous owner realised there was a problem with the O2 sensor, possibly assumed it was a poor connection in the connector plug local to the sensor itslef, cut it off, re-connected etc etc but never actually solved the problem

It's really odd that there is a problem in the multi-pin loom connector plug at the BMSK module itself. I have never come across this before. There are no signs of corrosion or interference / bodging there either. The male pins on the BMSK module itself that engage with the multi-pin loom connector plug female pins are all good and not bent / damaged either.

I will take some photos later to help explain all of this waffle :D

Fergus
 
Dismantling the plug at the BMSK and removing a pin is not as bad as it at first looks. see Denz0 `s fuel strip conversion. (I think someone on that there had some spare pins).
I would run a new black wire taped to the outside of the loom.
Possibly a cable that had a fault from the factory that was already weak.
I use an old 60 watt sealed beam unit for continuity testing looms as it will often show up a fault having a 5 amp load that a multimeter or low amperage buzzer will ring through ok.
 
BMW sell little connectors to go on the pins with 8" of wire as a spare part



normally have in stock for a quid or so.... car dealers use the same bits

check out 61130005197 might be the right bit Bushing contact MQS with cable 0,2- 0,5 QMM
or just a bare connector 61138353746 Cable connector 0.2-0.5 MM²
 
have another look.... I added the bare bin

bare connector 61138353746 Cable connector 0.2-0.5 MM²
 
Will update tomorrow. The Friday evening pub visit has postponed all efforts until the morning.

Thanks a million for all the advice so far chaps
 
Spent hours today trying to solve this problem. Bought some new bmw female pins yesterday. Swapped out #90. Circuit belled out perfectly. Resistance of 0.02 ohms.
Same problem. Added.a new wire all the way back from pin 90 to the black wire on the O2 sensor. Same problem again. Cylinder 1 output trace constant at 0.45 v.

Rechecked the grey wire up to pin 43 on BMSK connector. 0.02 ohms also. Perfect.

Tried everything again. Same issue.

Re-made the pin connection at pin 90. Same problem.


Swapped O2 sensors- all 3 showed the same.

Am of the opinion that the open circuit the bmsk module is seeing is within the BMSK module itself.

Perhaps a dry solder joint within the module.

Anyway, it is certainly nothing to do with the wiring loom or O2 sensors.

A royal pain in the ass. 5 hours of highs / lows / swearing / ideas and disappointments.

Ah well, the bike rides great, loads of power and 50 mpg. May as well have to live with it

Any other ideas while I drown my sorrows in Guinness ?

Thanks all.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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