Problems with my 2CV, (it is an Airhead)
- Thread starter BillN
- Start date
Sorry, nothing constructive to add, only a few more reminiscences.
I read an article on 2CVs in 'Small Car' magazine in the mid sixties where it claimed that they were built out of surplus ex-US Army dustbins (they did have some corrugated panels IIRC??*) had a first gear ratio suitable for pulling twenty ton lorries up one in five hills and a top gear suitable for pulling twenty ton lorries down one in five hills. It also said that in corners they rolled like a bitch on heat and that the gearchange felt like stirring a cowpat with a walking stick.
That stuck in my mind for a few years (well, it sort of would, wouldn't it
) and was reinforced by having the privelege of actually driving one, it could have been a van actually, while hitch-hiking in France. The owner, a student, hated driving and I drove a few hundred miles from South of Paris to the Dordogne. It was huge fun. The canvas roof rolled back like a sports car, it had flap type vents in the scuttle(?) just under the windscreen and roundabouts were a hoot, it did roll like a bitch on heat, and it happily lifted a wheel on corners. It was ideal for camping because you could take the seats out which left the floor flat and uncluttered as both the handbrake and gearchange levers stuck out of the dash, you could then sleep on the floor. The seats were bent tubing strung with bungee cords and were very comfortable, you could just unclip them and take them out to have a picnic.
A great little motor
PS *Just seen a picture of the van version, that did have a lot of corrugations
I read an article on 2CVs in 'Small Car' magazine in the mid sixties where it claimed that they were built out of surplus ex-US Army dustbins (they did have some corrugated panels IIRC??*) had a first gear ratio suitable for pulling twenty ton lorries up one in five hills and a top gear suitable for pulling twenty ton lorries down one in five hills. It also said that in corners they rolled like a bitch on heat and that the gearchange felt like stirring a cowpat with a walking stick.
That stuck in my mind for a few years (well, it sort of would, wouldn't it
) and was reinforced by having the privelege of actually driving one, it could have been a van actually, while hitch-hiking in France. The owner, a student, hated driving and I drove a few hundred miles from South of Paris to the Dordogne. It was huge fun. The canvas roof rolled back like a sports car, it had flap type vents in the scuttle(?) just under the windscreen and roundabouts were a hoot, it did roll like a bitch on heat, and it happily lifted a wheel on corners. It was ideal for camping because you could take the seats out which left the floor flat and uncluttered as both the handbrake and gearchange levers stuck out of the dash, you could then sleep on the floor. The seats were bent tubing strung with bungee cords and were very comfortable, you could just unclip them and take them out to have a picnic.A great little motor
PS *Just seen a picture of the van version, that did have a lot of corrugations
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This is starting to get to me . . I want to get my hands on it and sort it out 
You say that the condenser is new . . But I have had new condensers fail on my Land Rover so its worth checking it out.
The condenser is connected between live and earth.
When the points close it discharges.
When the points open it charges - diverting the current momentarily and preventing an arc being drawn across the points.
If it fails it could provide a permanent short to earth (but still with some resistance).
I would do three things next.
1. Remove the points from the motor. They should just consist of the base plate (with fixed point) and the moving point and spring.
With the points hanging open - check if there is a current (continuity) between the base plate and spring.
If there isn't then the moving and fixed points are correctly isolated.
If there is a connection between the two, the plastic sleeve isn't working.
2. If Test 1 is successful:
Re-assemble the points and the feed from the coil, but don't connect the capacitor. connect your light across the spring (moving point) and the base plate/earth.
With the points open there should be light as the bulb is the only thing in the circuit (apart from the coil primary windings).
With the points closed the light should go out completely. This is because the 'live' wire from the coil is now grounded and should be at ground polarity (i.e. there is no potential difference between the wire and ground so no voltage).
3. If test 2. is successful:
Re-connect the capacitor and try it again. If you get different results I suggest the capacitor is faulty.
If all is successful, check the coil by connecting an HT lead and plug, ground the plug and then ground and break the live wire from the coil. You should get a spark at the plug when you break the connection between the live wire and earth. As suggested above.
Its just a matter of taking it logically one step at a time, removing any variables (such as the condenser and the coil) as you go.
Good luck, I wish I could pop round and play with it
Bob.
You say that the condenser is new . . But I have had new condensers fail on my Land Rover so its worth checking it out.
The condenser is connected between live and earth.
When the points close it discharges.
When the points open it charges - diverting the current momentarily and preventing an arc being drawn across the points.
If it fails it could provide a permanent short to earth (but still with some resistance).
I would do three things next.
1. Remove the points from the motor. They should just consist of the base plate (with fixed point) and the moving point and spring.
With the points hanging open - check if there is a current (continuity) between the base plate and spring.
If there isn't then the moving and fixed points are correctly isolated.
If there is a connection between the two, the plastic sleeve isn't working.
2. If Test 1 is successful:
Re-assemble the points and the feed from the coil, but don't connect the capacitor. connect your light across the spring (moving point) and the base plate/earth.
With the points open there should be light as the bulb is the only thing in the circuit (apart from the coil primary windings).
With the points closed the light should go out completely. This is because the 'live' wire from the coil is now grounded and should be at ground polarity (i.e. there is no potential difference between the wire and ground so no voltage).
3. If test 2. is successful:
Re-connect the capacitor and try it again. If you get different results I suggest the capacitor is faulty.
If all is successful, check the coil by connecting an HT lead and plug, ground the plug and then ground and break the live wire from the coil. You should get a spark at the plug when you break the connection between the live wire and earth. As suggested above.
Its just a matter of taking it logically one step at a time, removing any variables (such as the condenser and the coil) as you go.
Good luck, I wish I could pop round and play with it
Bob.
Right Ya Old Git where have ya got to or is the Duex Chevaux buried under 3 feet of snow?
Gap and points sorted........do not know why but the test light just started going off and on at the right time.
tappet OK...........just need to sort timing
Not had any time since my last post as it has not really been 2CV weather.........maybe have a go at finishing the job this weekend.........but I have taken the front wings off to get at the tappets etc., and I will have then repainted before putting them back on..........or maybe a couple of new wings are needed, (or some welding)..........they look OK but have the usual 2CV rust spots
Nice to read this thread
and get a bit of info
as the owner of a Ex Irish Army Mehari 24Volt , I did not think I would get educated on it here in UKgser
have a look here
http://s206.photobucket.com/albums/bb311/philgun/Mehari/
pg
and get a bit of info
as the owner of a Ex Irish Army Mehari 24Volt , I did not think I would get educated on it here in UKgser
have a look here
http://s206.photobucket.com/albums/bb311/philgun/Mehari/
pg
