Project Lock

rocky burns

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Over the last few months and a spate of Gs and adventure theft, I decided it was time to make up a lock.

I'm still in the design stages at the moment and there is others I may make up which potentially lock different parts of the bike.

It all started with one piece of steel and a couple of hinge brackets:D

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The idea is a plate which will be bolted to a concrete floor in your or work shop.

The hinge idea was to let it open so as not to catch the swing arm and exhaust on the other side but to leave an overhang when closed as not to be able to get to the hinges with an angle grinder (which these thieves seem to carry nowadays).. I know some people like to leave the bike on the centre stand but this is designed for ease and works off the side stand.

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The idea is to go with a pin system to go through the rear wheel. I went for 30mm solid bar and then a 45mm hollow bar so I can feed the internal through the external for an extra layer of protection(again for a battery angle grinder)

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From this you get the basic gist..

Back in a bit with some more:thumb
 
Again... The hinges were a bit vulnerable so I made up some outer plates to protect them, They also work as a floor close to stop the sides folding in to far and hitting the wheel.

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As you can see the outer pin goes through the wheel first and the inner then travels up inside it. I will coat the outer with something to stop it scratching the inside of the rear hub.

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The outer casing then folds in for the bar to go through.
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Rear end view

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I will be getting a push pin square lock tomorrow
I then have to drill the 30mm pin so the lock can go through it. It will also have a protective case over the lock again so you cant get in to cut it from there.
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There is also an option to weld a bracket to the square end of the pin as to allow for double protection and an extra pad lock.


Ill keep you updated as I carry on:thumb
 
Good idea. Watch nobody nabs it and makes money out of it.

Back in the 90s, I had a Uni project (portable hazard warning signage system for the likes of AA bikers, etc) blatantly copied and put into production.
 
Great idea. I assume that this is to be anchor bolted to the concrete floor.

Instead of the additional hinge end plates, why not have the hinge pins spanning the width of the side plates and welded to their respective hinge plates. It should achieve the same result of making it more difficult to grind off.

Having said that, why not build a bike size Denver Boot wheel clamp? Wouldn't need to bolt it to the ground.
 
It has to be bolted to something, otherwise some big lads can just pick it up and walk off with the bike, put in a van and its gone.

Good idea Rocky......:thumb2
 
It has to be bolted to something, otherwise some big lads can just pick it up and walk off with the bike, put in a van and its gone.

Good idea Rocky......:thumb2

It's will be bolted to the floor. That's the other idea of having the tyre sat on top of it as you won't be able to get to the bolts to remove it.
I'll try and crack on tomorrow and get it finished off.
 
May be a bit OTT but the actual padlock is always going to be the weak point , maybe consider building a box over the lock the same as on a container ?
 
It's will be bolted to the floor. That's the other idea of having the tyre sat on top of it as you won't be able to get to the bolts to remove it.
I'll try and crack on tomorrow and get it finished off.


The not bolting down was in reply to Moose.......:thumb2
 
Can I suggest an idea or 2? Make the hollow and solid pin the same length, at each end weld a flange on. Enlarge the hole to take the hollow pin, insert pins from opposite ends, line up the holes and lock through both pins. That way the lock is protected from attack by the flange. The other flange should be flush against the metal. The hole in the bracket can be slotted to assist in putting the pin through when the bike is on side or centre stand and also add to the frustration when attacking the lock. Instead of making it to be bolted down how about welding the anchor to it so it can be cemented in.

That is a clever bit of design.
 
kudos to you for thinking outside the box. looking forward to seeing the finished product.

now if you could make a travel version for the world trip, super lightweight......

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Can I suggest an idea or 2? Make the hollow and solid pin the same length, at each end weld a flange on. Enlarge the hole to take the hollow pin, insert pins from opposite ends, line up the holes and lock through both pins. That way the lock is protected from attack by the flange. The other flange should be flush against the metal. The hole in the bracket can be slotted to assist in putting the pin through when the bike is on side or centre stand and also add to the frustration when attacking the lock. Instead of making it to be bolted down how about welding the anchor to it so it can be cemented in.

That is a clever bit of design.


I see where your coming from with locking through both pins, but.. the biggest e lock you can get is 90mm but only has a 35mm gap and a 12mm pin.
It will not fit over the outside of the 2 bars. It's a good point of having an elongated hole on the one side for a centre stand option. That's another idea I have been thinking on..
The ground anchor can be an option to people laying new floors if they wanted that or also if you can't put your bike inside and wanted an out door option.. This was just a design anyone can use really with a concrete floor that's already laid.
 
Rather than painting or coating the hollow pin that contacts the middle of the final driver I would get some large diameter heat shrink as it will be friendlier to the bike
 
I've always thought that some means of locking the centre stand down would be a reasonable deterrent, difficult to move a bike if the stand is fixed down.

Surprised that manufacturers haven't come up with some way of doing this just with some additional bracketry. ......
 
I've always thought that some means of locking the centre stand down would be a reasonable deterrent, difficult to move a bike if the stand is fixed down.

Surprised that manufacturers haven't come up with some way of doing this just with some additional bracketry. ......

That's was something I looked at in the first place. Trouble with it is it's 2 pins and a circlip.. pliers and is gone:(
 
Having been surprised at how much steel the scrotes who stole a trailer from me got through, I've been wondering if using some box section stuffed with Kevlar from some old chainsaw trousers would disable the grinder before they run out of disks and batteries.
 


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