On the clutch bolts, they are only torqued to 20-22Nm so can be reused - but I note Mikeyboy's recommendation to replace the washers.
Project Money Pit !
- Thread starter Stirlingmoz
- Start date
Agreed guys.
Not worth risking for the sake of a few parts.
Not worth risking for the sake of a few parts.
And turning Project Money Pit into Project Sinkhole!
An enjoyable thread to follow, thank you.
Good that you found the smoking gun. The engine gasket set I ordered from motor works did not include the oil pump ring ( though it was supposed to ) so I also was looking at the retainer item. Ordered a red pump ring seoerately. Great thread. What priming are you going to do this time ?
Thanks for the thread feedback.
It’s really make or break for this project this weekend - in both senses.
My plan is to refit the oil pump having given it a good coating of assembly lube, refit the oil pump cover (correct ‘o’ ring this time) and flywheel, cross my fingers and hope for the best.
The battery has been on charge and is able to spin the motor quite quickly with the spark plugs out.
I’m hopeful that the assembly lube I used elsewhere during the engine build has protected everything. I’m thinking cam, followers, push rods, big ends, main bearings, thrust washers etc
The next post will either be really positive or I’m on the hunt for another motor.
It’s really make or break for this project this weekend - in both senses.
My plan is to refit the oil pump having given it a good coating of assembly lube, refit the oil pump cover (correct ‘o’ ring this time) and flywheel, cross my fingers and hope for the best.
The battery has been on charge and is able to spin the motor quite quickly with the spark plugs out.
I’m hopeful that the assembly lube I used elsewhere during the engine build has protected everything. I’m thinking cam, followers, push rods, big ends, main bearings, thrust washers etc
The next post will either be really positive or I’m on the hunt for another motor.
Doesn’t look very red!And the smoking gun ?
Oil pump removed..
View attachment 393770
Look at that ‘o’ ring
I think it’s the wrong one.
It’s black and quite thick - not the much slimmer red one
It was still wet and sticky in there with assembly lube so I think I got away without causing any catastrophic damage.
That’s all I had time for this evening but I’m hoping we’ve found the problem.
@mikeyboy - as they say in Australia - good call!
Well done Mikeyboy!
Made a start today - waiting for the postie with my emergency Bins order.
Here’s the problem
And here’s the result of changing the oil pump ‘o’ ring
Only a short spin and the oil pressure warning light went out and stays out for a good few seconds
I’m getting 130 psi compression on both cylinders - happy with that
Here’s the problem
And here’s the result of changing the oil pump ‘o’ ring
Only a short spin and the oil pressure warning light went out and stays out for a good few seconds
I’m getting 130 psi compression on both cylinders - happy with that
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Put it back together and fitted the carbs, throttle cables and exhaust headers.
Starting to look a bit like a motorbike and not just a disparate bunch of old parts.
Starting to look a bit like a motorbike and not just a disparate bunch of old parts.
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Money pit continues to throw up little problems.
I found overnight drips of oil under the right hand cylinder this morning.
Having no oil pressure earlier this week, this was nice to see and is likely as a result of me being lazy and only using the centre nut to hold the rocker cover on.
Easily remedied fitting nuts to the m6 threads at either end of the rocker cover.
Slightly more worrying was that Money pit obviously didn’t appreciate being interfered with so extensively yesterday and has developed a gearbox oil leak that seems to be coming through the neutral switch itself ?
Not seen that before
And as these things come in 3’s, I’ve got no spark when cranking.
Good spark when flicking the engine kill switch but not when the engine is spinning over.
I attached my Hall effect checker and it’s not pulsing when the engine is being cranked on the starter.
I’ve got a spare bean can but it’s completely untested, being bought at Kempton Park
That’s a job for next weekend
I found overnight drips of oil under the right hand cylinder this morning.
Having no oil pressure earlier this week, this was nice to see and is likely as a result of me being lazy and only using the centre nut to hold the rocker cover on.
Easily remedied fitting nuts to the m6 threads at either end of the rocker cover.
Slightly more worrying was that Money pit obviously didn’t appreciate being interfered with so extensively yesterday and has developed a gearbox oil leak that seems to be coming through the neutral switch itself ?
Not seen that before
And as these things come in 3’s, I’ve got no spark when cranking.
Good spark when flicking the engine kill switch but not when the engine is spinning over.
I attached my Hall effect checker and it’s not pulsing when the engine is being cranked on the starter.
I’ve got a spare bean can but it’s completely untested, being bought at Kempton Park
That’s a job for next weekend
Fitted the new (used) bean can this morning and bingo - we have sparks when cranking.
I think Money pit is ready to try and start but I don’t have any fuel hose ‘T’ pieces.
I’ll get one ordered up for next weekend.
I had a look at the 13mm master cylinder that was on the frame when I bought it.
Needless to say it was filthy and full of that crystalline stuff you get with old brake fluid.
Quick bench strip
I’ll give it all a good clean and see what we need to be able to reuse it.
I also started to rebuild one of the monolever rocker arms that needed new bearings.
I found a 14mm deep socket was the perfect size to press out the old bearings.
The new bearings are in the freezer and I’ll have a go at pressing those in tomorrow.
Small steps today but I guess that’s all a project really is - a series of small steps
I think Money pit is ready to try and start but I don’t have any fuel hose ‘T’ pieces.
I’ll get one ordered up for next weekend.
I had a look at the 13mm master cylinder that was on the frame when I bought it.
Needless to say it was filthy and full of that crystalline stuff you get with old brake fluid.
Quick bench strip
I’ll give it all a good clean and see what we need to be able to reuse it.
I also started to rebuild one of the monolever rocker arms that needed new bearings.
I found a 14mm deep socket was the perfect size to press out the old bearings.
The new bearings are in the freezer and I’ll have a go at pressing those in tomorrow.
Small steps today but I guess that’s all a project really is - a series of small steps
And here he sits waiting for the big day tomorrow.
Will he start and run ?
Plumbed up, wired up, control cables fitted, fluids topped and battery charged.
Will pick up some 98 ron in the morning.
With no silencers it’s gonna be noisy so not too early.
Fingers crossed
Will he start and run ?
Plumbed up, wired up, control cables fitted, fluids topped and battery charged.
Will pick up some 98 ron in the morning.
With no silencers it’s gonna be noisy so not too early.
Fingers crossed
He runs and even ticks over - but it’s flippin loud without a collector box or silencers.
Didn’t run it for too long to preserve neighbour relationships
Getting a bike running is always a milestone in any project so I’m chuffed with this.
No leaks either.
It’s encouraged me to crack on and I think it’s worth finishing.
No parts to add at the moment so an opportunity to make some progress with the wiring.
It would be nice to see if I can get the tacho, charge warning light and front indicators working.
Didn’t run it for too long to preserve neighbour relationships
Getting a bike running is always a milestone in any project so I’m chuffed with this.
No leaks either.
It’s encouraged me to crack on and I think it’s worth finishing.
No parts to add at the moment so an opportunity to make some progress with the wiring.
It would be nice to see if I can get the tacho, charge warning light and front indicators working.
Worked out how to connect the remaining R80 monolever wiring harness wires from the plug that normally goes into the back of the instruments into the R80ST tachometer.
We now also have a working charge warning light (and the battery is charging) and the tachometer works.
Jury rigged some front indicators and though they flash, they’re not mechanically fitted to the bike yet and are dangling loosely on some wires.
May get a little time tomorrow to fettle that.
A good day all round
We now also have a working charge warning light (and the battery is charging) and the tachometer works.
Jury rigged some front indicators and though they flash, they’re not mechanically fitted to the bike yet and are dangling loosely on some wires.
May get a little time tomorrow to fettle that.
A good day all round
Wheeled Money pit out into the sunshine yesterday for a few more smaller jobs.
I fitted a used monolever exhaust collector box which has quietened it down no end. Not neighbour friendly, but close. Still thinking about silencer options and even considering removing some of the left footrest hanger and fitting a G/S silencer
Rebuilt the front brake master cylinder, stripped and cleaned the R100GS front brake caliper.
I finished up work on the electrical system and everything now works. At some point I need to strip off the wiring harness again and then I will cut all the wires to the optimum length, solder them together and re-wrap it.
Started to make some bracketry for the front fairing but that’s a work in progress.
I’ve got some time off next week so while my neighbours are at work I can run it up to temperature, synch the carbs and set the idle.
Still on the hunt for some parts:
G/S or GS rear indicator brackets
Either an ST or G/S petrol tank
Top yoke nut with a small hole in the centre to replace this monolever version..
If anyone has a lead on any of those parts, I’m V interested.
I fitted a used monolever exhaust collector box which has quietened it down no end. Not neighbour friendly, but close. Still thinking about silencer options and even considering removing some of the left footrest hanger and fitting a G/S silencer
Rebuilt the front brake master cylinder, stripped and cleaned the R100GS front brake caliper.
I finished up work on the electrical system and everything now works. At some point I need to strip off the wiring harness again and then I will cut all the wires to the optimum length, solder them together and re-wrap it.
Started to make some bracketry for the front fairing but that’s a work in progress.
I’ve got some time off next week so while my neighbours are at work I can run it up to temperature, synch the carbs and set the idle.
Still on the hunt for some parts:
G/S or GS rear indicator brackets
Either an ST or G/S petrol tank
Top yoke nut with a small hole in the centre to replace this monolever version..
If anyone has a lead on any of those parts, I’m V interested.
I’ve got a complete set of ST indicators with stalks but I’m fairly sure the brackets were welded to the subframe. I’ve got one of those too!
Thanks for the reply.
The G/S rear indicator stalks I’m after, look like this..
Motorworks want £33 @
I am interested though. Will message you
I’ve got a pair of those somewhere - and the stainless cover plates.
Pete
I’ve got a stainless top yolk nut, but it does NOT have the small hole. Was originally on my ST before I changed forks and yokes to paralever ones.
Can bring over when I deliver the square rocker covers….just say when.
I’ve got a stainless top yolk nut, but it does NOT have the small hole. Was originally on my ST before I changed forks and yokes to paralever ones.
Can bring over when I deliver the square rocker covers….just say when.
Manuel from SWT sells billet hubs for spoked wheels AND 4 lugs mono rear drives for a little bit less than 800€. Considering the large and ''cheap'' offering of these bevel drives (and the matted swingarms) or the multiple ratio availables, I think it might be a cheaper and better choice than looking for an old and abused g/s one...
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