Project Money Pit !

[Stirlingmoz]

Manuel from SWT sells billet hubs for spoked wheels AND 4 lugs mono rear drives for a little bit less than 800€. Considering the large and ''cheap'' offering of these bevel drives (and the matted swingarms) or the multiple ratio availables, I think it might be a cheaper and better choice than looking for an old and abused g/s one...

Do you mean this wheel ?

https://www.swt-sports.de/de/hinterrad-radnabe-nh-power-18-zoll-silber-mono

That works out about £1,200 plus shipping and then I’d have to source a matching front.

Very nice but sadly outside the financial scope of Moneypit. He’s going to have to make do with Monolever alloys

 

[tofgasp]

I meant this hub :
https://www.swt-sports.de/de/bremstrommel-hinten-bmw-r-65-r-100-monolever-speichenrad
with your choice of rim and spokes. I guess it could easily cost 2 or 300€ less than the complete wheel.

 

[Stirlingmoz]

Spent a couple of hours tidying the wiring at the back end of Moneypit.

It all worked but was a bit jury rigged. It’s now cut and soldered to length and fitted rubber grommets where wiring passes through mudguard etc.

The ST style tachometer rather neatly contains the bikes warning lights but no indicator repeater.

I had run a Lucas style warning light up through the steering stem..



Got this top yoke nut from @Gelandestrasse (Thanks Tim)



Cleaned it up and enlarged the centre hole a little and we have this..



Indicators now fitted and working with an appropriate flash rate.

The rear indicators are currently fitted to the side of the subframe while I hunt for the correct stems.

 

[Stirlingmoz]

No parts to fit this week, so time to turn my attention to the wiring and the forks.

The wiring is untidy while I worked out how to connect an R100 monolever wiring harness up to R80ST instruments



It all works but is now shortened and wiring joints soldered and wrapped in heat shrink.

I’ll retape the whole harness when the bike is stripped for cosmetics.

Bit tidier here..



Time to slip the forks out for new seals and a refresh



The bottom yoke needs to be drilled and tapped in the R80G/S pattern so that I can fit the front mudguard properly.

The small brackets that locate the headlight frame to the bottom yoke are unobtanium from BMW so will have to fab something up

 

[Bubb]

Do you want a g/s st lower yoke?
Rather than drill n tap for the mudguard?

 

[Stirlingmoz]

Do you want a g/s st lower yoke?
Rather than drill n tap for the mudguard?

The monolever and G/S forks are a different diameter sadly.

I’ve drilled this one now to 4mm and looking on eBay for a 4.2mm tapping drill.

Thanks for the offer though.

Don’t suppose you have the short ST brackets that go from the bottom yoke to the headlight mounting bracket ?

Will see if I can find a picture

 

[NeilDD]

Get yourself a No.19 drill bit

 

[Bubb]

Pete
Sorry, no brackets as I never had them …. My st came with rt fairing instead o& naked front end.
Maybe you need my st forks, yoke, wheel ….insead.

 

[Stirlingmoz]

I drilled the bottom yoke today - same bolt pattern as a G/S yoke and tapped to M5.

Bolted the front mudguard in place with some 10mm deep m5 stainless spacers.

The spacers allow the wiring harness to sit in the valley of the mudguard without being pinched



Fitted the front fork tubes and ensured they were parallel with a glass plate



Then reassembled the fork sliders with new seals and refit with new gaiters. Wheel back in - and I can move him around again.



The front forks need refilling with oil - I’ll use a syringe and some clear hose for that.

Front brake system next..

 

[Gelandestrasse]

Him?

 

[steadysteve]

“ensured they were parallel with a glass plate”

Can you explain what that’s about please?
Thanks

 

[Bubb]

“ensured they were parallel with a glass plate”

Can you explain what that’s about please?
Thanks

It’s to make sure the forks are aligned properly.
Glass plate tends to be flat, so putting that across the forks you can see if one is out of line….

 

[Stirlingmoz]

What he said ^

Flat glass plate (actually an old glass chopping board) placed across the fork stanchions under the bottom yoke.

The glass plate should sit flat and not wobble at all. A good indication that the forks are straight and parallel.

Stole the idea off a guy I saw on YouTube

 

[Stirlingmoz]

Him?

Actually I think it’s gender fluid

 

[Bubb]

Actually I think it’s gender fluid

Kill it now then, before it becomes vegan, and tells you it wants to be called “ they, them”

 

[Stirlingmoz]

A trip to Kempton Park autojumble didn’t turn anything up today.

I missed out on an R80 bottom end that was silly cheap - I didn’t get up close so there may have been good reason. (I keep telling myself that )

EBay however did turn up all the correct brackets for the ST headlight mount.

These are the top mounts - opened out slightly to fit the larger monolever forks.



And these are the bottom mounts (NLA from BMW)



That means everything can be bolted firmly together



I can now turn to making up some brackets to fit the G/S fairing

 

[Stirlingmoz]

So, money pit has stalled through lack of parts to finish him off.

I still need to find a G/S or an ST petrol tank and some rear indicator stems.

To kill some time in the sunshine this afternoon, I decided to take a peek inside the defective bean can unit.

I’m thinking I’ve never opened one of these before but watched a couple of videos and it wouldn’t do any harm to have a spare.

I got this far..



and realised you need quite a large pair of circlip pliers to get that dark retaining ring out.

Not having any pliers that big, I found something on Amazon that might do the job.

 

[Stirlingmoz]

So with wonders of Amazon, some 13” circlip pliers arrived this afternoon.

They made short work of that big internal circlip and I was able to strip the bean can down far enough to get to the hall sensor mounting assembly.



The Bob weights inside the body were dirty and sticky. WD40 cleaned everything up and a squirt of silicon spray has everything moving easily / freely.

Just the hall sensor to sort now.

Looking at the unit Motorworks sell, I don’t think I have to strip it any further ?

 

[Stirlingmoz]

Bit the bullet and ordered some new rear indicator mounts.

Had to slightly enlarge the internal bore of the indicators so they slip onto the stems. I quite like these aftermarket units as they are similar-ish (just squint a bit) to the stock indicators, but only half the size.



Then moved to the front brake system.
I had already stripped the front master cylinder and cleaned everything but it now has new internals.

A near neighbour has a compressor which allowed me to split and pop the pistons out of the front brake caliper. I shouldn’t have been surprised but the pistons came out with a hell of a crack.

All good in there fortunately. Just needed a good clean and a little red rubber grease before rebuilding.



Took a little time to bleed the system as it was completely dry but we now have a good firm brake lever.

It hasn’t been fired up for a week or two, so I decided to heat cycle it and noticed a faint glow of the charge warning light.

This project really is the gift that keeps on giving. Got to try and troubleshoot that now.

On the plus side, it started readily and seems to run really nicely.

 

[Stirlingmoz]

Money pit has a petrol tank. It’s cosmetically challenged but seems sound enough.



Wasn’t straightforward to fit though.

Because this was originally a road spec monolever, it has a tank mounting system that fouls the underside of this ‘basic’ tank.

It incorporates a wiring mount, the fusebox and the side panel mounts.

I slimmed it down just to retain the fusebox and wiring plug for the rear lights



The basic tank rear securing clip still wouldn’t work though.

There’s a triangular brace under the main tube preventing the clip from folding under.

Decided I would cut a small slot in it to allow the clip to do its thing






Everything now fits and clears nicely.




Got a fuel tap to rebuild but we’re getting close to being able to ride this now