I’ve an R100RS 1977 with 37,000 miles. Can push rod followers (exhaust on LHS) with some wear. Would you replace? I’ve only stripped one side so far. Replacements for all 4 from Motorworks £280! Not cheap. If I’ve got to suck it up, so be it. Suggestions would be welcome
Push rod cam followers
- Thread starter GreyHairedWombat
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Any pitting at all on these and I replace them
once they start to pit it just gets worse and what is worse is that the parts the ping off are so small !!
Excessive cam wear and even scoring
Cough Cough You don;t happen to use fully synth do you ??
once they start to pit it just gets worse and what is worse is that the parts the ping off are so small !!
Excessive cam wear and even scoring
Cough Cough You don;t happen to use fully synth do you ??
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First time I've taken a look. When I bought the bike it had very clean oil so did not change. Only road it for a short while before stopped to take care of oil leaks (head, barrel and push rod tubes, so don't know what oil was used.Any pitting at all on these and I replace them
once they start to pit it just gets worse and what is worse is that the parts the ping off are so small !!
Excessive cam wear and even scoring
Cough Cough You don;t happen to use fully synth do you ??
View attachment 344285 View attachment 344286
Anyway, thank you for your response. I'll replace assuming I can't get them ground
replacing with good used ones is cost effective
Plus the usual suppliers have good stocks
Worth checking the other side AND the cam for marks or damage !
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Also worth popping the sump off for a good clean out
Many thanks for the advice. Planned to take off sump as this is leaking so will check then. Re-assembled LH head but found inlet roker was tight (would not rotate easily). Push rods rotated nicely. In my efforts to improve managed to break race holding needle roller bearings in bottom of roker which then proceeded to drop out. Have ordered new bearings.
Any tips on why it was tight and how to improve free play when fitting repaired roker?
Replace and then use decent fully-sythetic oil.
I wouldn't be using synthetic oil in an airhead.
Mineral oil only.
Mineral oil only.
Why use old-tech oil?
It's clear that that cam followers are failing due to inadequate lubrication at the cam lobe contact point.
Fully-synth oil is much better at providing lubrication particularly in higher temperature environments.
It's clear that that cam followers are failing due to inadequate lubrication at the cam lobe contact point.
Fully-synth oil is much better at providing lubrication particularly in higher temperature environments.
'failing due to inadequate lubrication'...so many reasons why.
Here's a quote from Snowbum:
Certain specific ingredients in the engine oil are needed to avoid expensive problems in your BMW Airhead motorcycle. THREE are critical. One of them is ZDDP (or ZDP, ZDTP). The amounts in common car oils have been decreased over time/years, in accordance with API, SAE, and oil and auto manufacturer's agreements. Your Airhead motorcycle requires this substance in a minimum (and not over a maximum) amount, to avoid $$ spalling and other deterioration of the camshaft and cam follower surfaces. Another ingredient is needed to be sure that under storage conditions, the cam and followers (and some other items in the engine) do not have the oil dripping off and leaving the metal unprotected at engine startup. The final ingredient of major importance is that the amount of detergents, which are Increasingly higher in modern car oils, should not be excessive, as that defeats both long term storage metal protection & the protection of ZDDP.
Read the whole article https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/oilcansimple.htm
Fully Synthetic unlikely to have ZDDP (I think he means Zinc). He says, "ZDDP is being minimized, or eliminated in automotive oils ...because the zinc component slowly ruins costly catalytic converters."
Fully Synthetic likely to have a lot of detergent, too.
Put what oil you want in - I normally use high Zinc content 20W50 mineral.
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Was the rocker arm tight on its shaft or was it pinched between the support posts?
ZDDP is 1940's oil tech.
Things have moved on since then.
Things have moved on since then.
Our engines are 1940's tech! They need the zinc. As per Snowbum
Excellent, a what oil thread.
I was born in the 1950’s when cork crash helmets were state of the art.
Should I still use one now?
Of course not, there are now better products available.
I think this thread is great.
Please continue to post up, and please, please don’t close the thread.
I’ve all the time in the world to read the posts….
Please continue to post up, and please, please don’t close the thread.
I’ve all the time in the world to read the posts….
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20/50 mineral SF grade or above....end of !
But the mechnical components were NOT designed with that Viscosity in mind!
Feel free to follow your dreams as I will Mine, 20W50 Dino is ALL that an Airhead "Requires" !! With a drop or two of added Zinc
Cavitation and stress fracturing is "usually" responsible for the follower face break up! Not the oil viscosity/quality!
HOWEVER the Oil's condition is another matter !
Now now Joe don;t be stirring it up !!I think this thread is great.
Please continue to post up, and please, please don’t close the thread.
I’ve all the time in the world to read the posts….
the Oil I mean !!
let the silt settle !
Hey guys! Your bikes - you can lube them with porridge for all the difference it makes to me.
But BP's Castrol brand knows a thing or two about motorcycle specific oil - the world's No1 two-wheeled lubricant brand.
They make both mineral and fully synthetic motorcycle oils.
See what they recommend for your airhead:
Do share the results....
But BP's Castrol brand knows a thing or two about motorcycle specific oil - the world's No1 two-wheeled lubricant brand.
They make both mineral and fully synthetic motorcycle oils.
See what they recommend for your airhead:
Do share the results....
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